Removing a section of synthetic teak decking - any tips?

[salar]

Ten years ago I fitted custom-made synthetic teak deck panels made by Permateek, and the adhesive was Saba. One small section of the actual deck right at the stern has become spongy due to water ingress and delaminating the grp and ply. I can lift and roll back the teak over the damaged area, but to roll it back further I'm having to pull up against some very stubborn (=good!) adhesive. I have tried wiggling a paint scraper along the bond but due to the elasticity of the cured adhesive, it's very slow progess. I have some Debond spray on order to clean up the undersurface of the Permateek. Has anyone any experience of doing this, and any tips? My next plan is to make some oak wedges to hammer into the gap as I roll the deck up, to try and break the bond. Here's a photo, the affected area is pretty much what's under the red bucket. Any suggestions much appreciated!

 

[salar]

Supplementary question - I've been looking for Sabatack adhesive online and it appears that chandlers have been swapping to Sikaflex instead. Does Sabatack have properties that Sikaflex doesn't, or can I use Sikaflex to stick the deck back?

 

[PCUK]

Force 4 and Boatpaint both stock it.

 

[salar]

Force 4 and Boatpaint both stock it.

I know where I can get it, I was wondering why fewer chandlers stock it now and is it better than Sikaflex?

 

[Concerto]

Ten years ago I fitted custom-made synthetic teak deck panels made by Permateek, and the adhesive was Saba. One small section of the actual deck right at the stern has become spongy due to water ingress and delaminating the grp and ply. I can lift and roll back the teak over the damaged area, but to roll it back further I'm having to pull up against some very stubborn (=good!) adhesive. I have tried wiggling a paint scraper along the bond but due to the elasticity of the cured adhesive, it's very slow progess. I have some Debond spray on order to clean up the undersurface of the Permateek. Has anyone any experience of doing this, and any tips? My next plan is to make some oak wedges to hammer into the gap as I roll the deck up, to try and break the bond. Here's a photo, the affected area is pretty much what's under the red bucket. Any suggestions much appreciated!

If you sharpen the paint scrapper or use a sharp wide chisel blade in a multitool, you should be able to cut the glue away carefully.

 

[harvey38]

SMART Trade Wide Scraper Blade

I removed loads of treadmaster using the above tool and PLENTY of heat to soften the adhesive using a heatgun.

 

[salar]

If you sharpen the paint scrapper or use a sharp wide chisel blade in a multitool, you should be able to cut the glue away carefully.

Just for the benefit of future Searches: Turns out the chisel blade in the multi tool was the best by far.Tedious job to remove the residue before re-sticking though. The Debond spray wasn't very effective over such a large area.