Removing a rounded bolt in a threaded hole

[haydude]

Long story cut short I have a bolt I bold thats rounded. I was going to take a dremel and lop the top off and hammer it through, but turns out the bracket is threaded and even pliers wont turn the bolt. Is there any special tool or technique I can use to get the ruddy thing off?

Typically its in a very confined space thats hard to get to. Shall i just destroy the bracket? it connects the exhaust outlet to the webasto heating box.

The exhaust pipe came loose on a trip about a month ago, its one of those jobs awkward jobs I keep putting off

There is a tool set sold by some traditional hardware shops with reverse self tapping screws. You drill a hole on the head of the bolt you want to remove and then screw in the special screw in the sense you would unscrew the bolt, with a bit of force you will unscrew the bolt. The hard part will be to get the reverse screw back that most likely will be seized inside the head of your bolt. You will have to put the bolt in a vice and unscrew the other way.

 

[srah1953]

Excuse my ignorance but what's the difference between a Surface drive socket and a standard socket driver. I couldn't really tell from pictures on Google.
Cheers

 

[gordmac]

Another vote for Irwin.

 

[elton]

Excuse my ignorance but what's the difference between a Surface drive socket and a standard socket driver. I couldn't really tell from pictures on Google.
Cheers

They apply force to the flats (surfaces) rather than the corners, as normal sockets do.

 

[penfold]

There is a tool set sold by some traditional hardware shops with reverse self tapping screws. You drill a hole on the head of the bolt you want to remove and then screw in the special screw in the sense you would unscrew the bolt, with a bit of force you will unscrew the bolt. The hard part will be to get the reverse screw back that most likely will be seized inside the head of your bolt. You will have to put the bolt in a vice and unscrew the other way.

Stud extractors is what you're talking about. They're a bit of an acquired taste.

 

[Sans Bateau]

Select a slightly smaller socket and hammer it on. Get a good spanner monkey to try to remove bolt. He will be able to detect the onset of yield or breakage and stop before twisting off the head. If not to be found have a go yourself.

Apply heat and PB buster and try again.

NB I used Snap On sockets for jobs like this because they had a no quibble lifetime warranty.

Wrong, any abuse of the tool being visible the warranty is no way 'no quibble'

 

[Appleyard]

Stud extractors is what you're talking about. They're a bit of an acquired taste.

Exactly..and if it breaks off in the stud,you are in deep manure as they are hardened steel and will not drill out.
A mate of mine is an engine rebuilder and will not have them in his workshop.

 

[Appleyard]

If possible,you might be able to weld a nut onto the end of said stud,and then use a normal socket or spanner. I know you said that its in an awkward place and I don't know what kit you have.

 

[timmygobang]

Thanks for all the replies. I've now formulated a plan of action (once the weather clears)

Plusgas, then try a surface drive socket, and then if all else fails I'll use the irwin bolt grips, if it breaks I'll have to destroy it. David you're right its that exhaust clamp, the whole units wired in so I'm working upside down in a locker. A stillson wrench or the super wrench would be too big.

Well just when you think you have all the tools you need, the boat gods throw you another challenge

Have a good Christmas all.

Thanks again

Tim

If I read you right this is just the exhaust clamp, they can be a pain, bolt and captive nut on the other side, do not hit with hammer as the alloy exhaust stub it connects to can fracture meaning a new heat exchanger. Cheap and easily available part so if destroying it is the easiest way then go ahead, replace with stainless marine clamp & bolt to avoid recurrence.

 

[Woodlouse]

They apply force to the flats (surfaces) rather than the corners, as normal sockets do.

I'd have thought a well fitting hexagonal socket or spanner would be just as effective. It's a good reason for not skimping on the quality of your tools as cheap spanners and sockets are rarely a snug fit on the relevant nuts and bolts.

 

[Lakesailor]

Thanks for all the replies. I've now formulated a plan of action (once the weather clears)

Plusgas, then try a surface drive socket, and then if all else fails I'll use the irwin bolt grips, if it breaks I'll have to destroy it.
Tim

Get Plus Gas on it as soon as you can. A few applications before you start work may be the difference.

 

[timmygobang]

Get Plus Gas on it as soon as you can. A few applications before you start work may be the difference.

Just ordered it off amazon, delivery eta 31st Dec. Fun times ahead

 

[elton]

I'd have thought a well fitting hexagonal socket or spanner would be just as effective. It's a good reason for not skimping on the quality of your tools as cheap spanners and sockets are rarely a snug fit on the relevant nuts and bolts.

I agree. But once the damage is done, then it's time for alternative methods. There's always the temptation to try the same socket for another go, after it's already slipped, but that usually makes matters worse.