a very effective stuff, comes as an aerosol. It's called Seal and Bond Remover, can't remember the producers name now. I'll look it up on board and post again.
You just need to spray it on (after you have scraped away the bulk) and wait e few seconds, then you can rub it off using a cloth. Works a treat..
cheers
I would be very interested to hear if the "Seal and Bond Remover" works. I was told many years ago that cured Sikaflex was in the area of "no known solvents" All the solvents that I have tried - and I've tried a few don't touch the stuff.
Yes, me too!! Just about to bed new teak seating in my cockpit using Sikaflex, and have scratched my chin a lot about how to clean the inevitable over-enthusiastic bits!!
I've not found a solvent, my wife calls me the Sikaflex monster!! I've ruined clothing, upholstery even had to shave bits of my legs to get the worst of the stuff off before being allowed to go to bed !
If you want advice on acheiving good results with Sika flex:
Remove small amounts off polished(ie GRP) or good wooden surfaces before it hardens with lots of cloths and white spirit as a lubricant. (Wet the cloth and keep wiping and turning the cloth - you will eventually get a nice neat edge to any fittings you've bedded with the stuff - twas a boat yard that showed me how to do it!)
If its an absorbant surface try and mask it off properly (The white spirit trick only ends up putting the stuff into the surface of the material)
If you are putting Sika flex in decking to end up with that nice laid deck look, the usual tricks are either to mask and sand or don't bother masking, suffer the inevitable splodges on the timber, and sand them off afterwards. Fill the gaps proud, allow to harden and I have then used a palm sander or a belt sander to good effect.
The only way I have got it off my hands when set is with a pumice stone and I end up with raw fingers...
have you tried alcohol ? Most caulking material is very sensitiv to alcohol only.
( I watched recently a professional applying silicon. Amazing how "easy" it is to get a clean job, if you know how to do it. I know myself at least 10 different methods that do not work, but none that works)
I KNOW Heerenleed's stuff works. We have replaced all windows on Heerenleed once, and some twice as we used the wrong Lexan. The second time, we needed to remove the old Sikaflex bedding. It works. You do need your elbow grease, of course, but it works well. View the product (by Innotec) here
We do not even bother anymore with getting off the exess before i't is cured, as we feel it makes the problem worse. Let it dry and just pull it off (only, of course, on smooth surfaces like gelcoat)
You can use ordinary methylated spirits for cleaning up uncured Sikaflex. I don't know why the makers keep this fact such a secret since apart from being a damn good sealant, it is also the messiest substance known to man.
I only discovered this by accident when I used Sikaflex to re-seal a compass that had been filled with Banda fluid (teachers of a certain age will know the stuff - actually clear meths) The uncured Sikaflex simply ran straight out having been instantly dissolved.
Can anyone tell me a succesful way to seal off a tube of sikalfex once it has been opened so that the remainder of the tube doesnt go hard?
I have tried removing the nozzle and puting Glad Wrap over the open end of tube then replacing the nozzle to seal it and stop air - this does not work. Sticking a nail in the end of th enozzle obviously also doesnt work. Have also tried keeping the opened tube in a container of water and this doesnt seem to work either. It gets a bit expensive having to keep buying tubes at $14 AUD per tube.
[ QUOTE ]
Can anyone tell me a succesful way to seal off a tube of sikalfex once it has been opened so that the remainder of the tube doesnt go hard?
[/ QUOTE ]Like you I've wasted many a part-used tube. Tried all sorts (e.g stored in deep-freeze), don't think there is a way of preserving it. The stuff goes hard of its own accord even if unopened, after about 6 months. Its good for about a month or so after opening. Towards the end of that both ends are hard and the only way is to hack-saw the tube apart and scrape the remaining fluid out - VERY messy.
It is possible to buy a tooth-paste sized tube for small jobs, but its comparatively even more expensive. I tend to save up jobs until I've got enough for a whole tube. Or use silcone sealants, which will last, for non-critical applications.