Removal and fitting of timken roller bearings

[K-ron]

Hi,
A couple of questions:
1. Will the bearings drift out using those small recesses in either crank shaft web? There are corresponding recesses on the opposing side of the webs, or are they to accept the arms of a puller (which I don't have)?
I have given them a reasonable whack with a 1/2" brass drift to no effect. I have new replacement bearings so I could butcher the cage and apply some heat?
2. How should I install the new bearings? Tap them on with 1/4" drift on the inner race? heat them in oil on the hob first?

3. Finally the big end roller bearing has axial movement of 0.65mm which I presume is between the internal and external races and radial runout (perpendicular play) of about 0.3mm is this within tolerance? The manual doesn't specify.

Many thanks for your thoughts.

Kieran

 

[earlybird]

What machine does that strange crankshaft assembly come from? It would aid any comment.
I would say that the recesses are intended for a puller of some sort, you may well have to butcher the main bearings.
For reassembly, I'd go for heating as you suggest and tapping on using a piece of tube that just over slips the shaft.
0.3 mm radial play seems quite a bit for a roller journal bearing, but its replacement, bearing in mind, (pardon the pun ), the pressed in crankpin,will probably be a job for a hefty press and a well equipped workshop to get it back in good alignment.

 

[K-ron]

Hi Earlybird,
It is from my lovely Sabb 10hp. Yes indeed, a well equipped workshop required and I am in Olbia, Sardinia and have already been told by one workshop that there are no facilities here for such a job. It just seems such a shame to do the crankshaft bearings and the cam shaft bearings but not the big end......dilemmas dilemmas. I am some what guesstimating the radial play as I'm not entirely sure how to measure it accurately, would I be better off measuring the play (distance of travel) of the small end of con rod whilst bolted on?

Kieran

 

[K-ron]

Thought I'd bump this up.....surely you clever folks have some thoughts on whether I should be able to drift these bearings out or not?

Kieran

 

[anoccasionalyachtsman]

I have one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-pcs-Be...632756?hash=item3ab202d334:g:e~AAAOSwEetV-pW2 which I've used on all sorts of awkward stuff in gearboxes and axles. You probably won't get it to work on the cage (worth a try though), and will be cutting that off to get to the inner race. It might go between race and web, but will work on the lip at the outer end of the race.

But, I do think that you can drift those taper bearings off using, as you say, those recesses. A bit of heat would do no harm.

I think that your big end bearing has far too much play, and I'd be taking it to somebody else to split and reassemble too.

 

[LadyInBed]

That [FONT=&quot]Bearing Splitter Gear Puller Fly Wheel Separator looks right for the job.
I would have probably used 3 old knife blades or chisels if the gap was wide enough. [/FONT]

 

[K-ron]

Thanks for the thoughts people. My dial gauge arrived today so I will accurately measure the play on the big end bearing and see if I can find some clearance data on the bearing. To add to my woes it appears that SKF no longer produce that bearing so not sure I will be able to source one.........

Kieran

 

[earlybird]

Thanks for the thoughts people. My dial gauge arrived today so I will accurately measure the play on the big end bearing and see if I can find some clearance data on the bearing. To add to my woes it appears that SKF no longer produce that bearing so not sure I will be able to source one.
Kieran

Although the mains are probably standard bearings, it's quite likely that the big-end bearing is a Sabb "special" so you may need to try a specialist Sabb dealer rather than a general bearing supplier.
This was my experience with a Vire 7 some years ago.

 

[K-ron]

Unfortunately Sleeman Hawkins, the U.K. Dealer doesn't have any and can't source them either.
Kieran