Rejuvenating washboards ?

Boo2

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My washboards and sliding hatch are looking very scruffy and I want to revarnish them. Is it better to scrape the old varnish off or to sand it ? And what is the best varnish to use ? (Wood is ply and not teak faced).

Thanks,

Boo2
 
Avoid sanding if possible as it can remove some of the outer veneer. Hot air gun or Nitromors will work but it depends on the "varnish" Huge range of finishes available - recent article in PBO summarising different types. but personally having tried most of them would recommend a porous woodstain Sikkens Novatech/Top. cheap, easy to apply, UV resistant, long lasting - but does not have high gloss finish. All the external brightwork on my old wooden boat including the mast is finished with this.
 
All depends on how good you want them to look.
To get anything to stay on then you need to seal the wood
on both sides AND the edges with epoxy or a clear epoxy primer.
Then use your varnish of choice. For me that would be Epifanes
or, for such a high damage potential fitting, a good 2 part polyurethane such as Seatop PU360UVR.
Cheers,
Chris
 
On the sanding is too aggressive line, I have a Fein multimaster with a scraper tool, is that likely to be too aggressive as well does anyone know ?

Thanks to all for the replies,

Boo2
 
I reckon Csail's and Searush's suggestions are best.

If you oil them it's easy to keep them looking smart with 'a wipe down with an oily rag', which is much easier than toching up chipped varnish.
 
With the Fein it all depends on what grade paper you use and at what speed.
As above, it also depends on the quality of the boards in the first place.
If its a small scruffy dayboat and it has no great value and you just need to tidy a bit, then any light sanding with a wipe off with white spirit and a few coats of almost anything may do.
If its a real quality boat and the boards are in very good condition despite the tatty varnish, then a more careful prep and a quality varnish may be called for.
If you Nitromors then don't scrape off with too much enthusiasm otherwise you could end up with scratches etc. Too much sanding with even a light grade sandpaper with a palm sander, could go through the top veneer of the ply at edges etc. Both scraping and sanding need to be done in the direction of the grain.
There are other threads on varnishing, but the varnish I used for my boards was Le Tonkinois. Not cheap but exceptional in my experience and so easy to use. A few coats of this on quality wood or ply can look really good and it appears tough and has good UV resistance.
 
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IMO-and it is only that- unless using beautiful teak faced, edged washboards, why not 2pack paint 'em to match the bootstripe or hull stripe and be done with it?

I indulged myself in making new solid teak ones because at least there is enough meat there to endlessly resand them when they get chipped and scratched! But they are an indulgence, the only bit of exterior varnishwork.
 
The problem with boards having teak edges is that it's too soft.
Edged up in a walnut or similar hard slow growing timber will give a very tough edge and will last much longer.
Agree though that in some cases it could be easier to paint but if in reasonable condition then it's the few places that I would keep varnished.
Having said that what a lot of wood I now possess!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDJ8f2KduZI
 
not completely relevant but when we bought our boat, someone had cut a spare perspex washboard.

so in marina or at anchor during the day when the weather is foul we cqn shut out the wind and yet let the light in.

great idea worth passing on
 
not completely relevant but when we bought our boat, someone had cut a spare perspex washboard.

so in marina or at anchor during the day when the weather is foul we cqn shut out the wind and yet let the light in.

great idea worth passing on


I had one in my last boat as well as the normal wooden boards. Much better when at anchor, in harbour etc..
 
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