Refuelling Small Outboard with integral tank whilst on the water

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I bought a new filler cap for both my 10 ltr & 20 litre cans at SIBS.

The filler cap returns back on itself like a flats swans neck ( sorry best description I can think of). You can tip up can and no fuel runs until it's inverted then place filler into tank and fuel stop flowing once level reaches bottom of filler. Remove.

It's so simple and works well with no spillage. I use it to top up my little 2.3 dinghy outboard when stored on pushpit.

I will try to find a link.

EDIT - Yes it's called a Superspout go to Superspout.com there is also a u tube video of using one. I just stopped at stand to but two new winch handle pockets and saw these spouts and bought two on impulse - they are v good.
 
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BruceDanforth said:
Just use an ordinary supermarket fuel can and don't try to cram as much as possible into it when you fill it up at the petrol station.
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+1

A tip: turn the outboard around 180 degrees so the fuel tank is in front of you when refuelling. Easier to see when it's nearly full, and any spillage falls into the dinghy where you can mop it up.

A warning: these plastic cans do have a limited lifespan. Eventually they'll split, so best not to leave them in the sunshine when full.
 
ReefMagnet said:
For another suggestion, I have one of these....
View attachment 49337

...which works really well in a bit of a chop and can be used one handed. I've never tried one for the task in question, but I couldn't see any reason for it not to work.
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I carry several of these and use them frequently. One for diesel fuel to transfer from bottles to the tank at sea, one for toilet water before removing the joker valve, which otherwise releases significant amounts of water over the heads floor, one for petrol into the outboard. Excellent devices, cheap, utterly reliable and controllable.
 
vyv_cox said:
one for toilet water before removing the joker valve, which otherwise releases significant amounts of water over the heads floor
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To be clear, where are you extracting the water from? Surely a jiggle pump can't remove it from the pipe up to the anti-siphon, where it lurks supported by the closed joker ready to rush out when you remove it?

Pete
 
B&Q sell 1 litre bottles for the purpose of mixing 2 stroke fuel (so fuel proof). I bought two of these which proved very successful in topping up the o/b tank as the bottle outlet was smaller than the tank filler.
 
knuterikt said:
I use can designed for filling chainsaws, the spout has built in fuel stop and overfill prevention.

This can (have removed the oil container)
el-505698055.jpg


The spout - haven't checked if this will fit other cans.
el-505698002.jpg

Found these pictures here. http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/a...ns-and-mixing-jugs/showitem-EL-505698055.aspx
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+1

Similar device available from Stihl dealers for chainsaws, brush cutters, strimmers etc. which are all 2 stoke. Works very well in my experience.
 
prv said:
To be clear, where are you extracting the water from? Surely a jiggle pump can't remove it from the pipe up to the anti-siphon, where it lurks supported by the closed joker ready to rush out when you remove it?

Pete
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From the bowl (in my case the eye of a centrifugal pump on a Jabsco LITE). Obviously it cannot remove water from downstream of the joker valve but the amount it removes from the bowl is significant, as I have no means other than a plastic bag to catch what drops out when the joker valve housing bolts are removed.

It isn't a jiggle pump, it's an assisted siphon pump.
 
vyv_cox said:
From the bowl (in my case the eye of a centrifugal pump on a Jabsco LITE). Obviously it cannot remove water from downstream of the joker valve but the amount it removes from the bowl is significant, as I have no means other than a plastic bag to catch what drops out when the joker valve housing bolts are removed.
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Ah. My bowl is usually kept dry or nearly so, so there's hardly any to remove, but about five feet lurking in the vertical pipework. I guess if the reason you're dismantling the pump is a knackered joker valve then that would have drained back.

Pete
 
prv said:
Ah. My bowl is usually kept dry or nearly so, so there's hardly any to remove, but about five feet lurking in the vertical pipework. I guess if the reason you're dismantling the pump is a knackered joker valve then that would have drained back.

Pete
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Yes, with a similar layout and living aboard for half the year we find that the joker valve needs to be cleaned or replaced perhaps twice per season. In my layout the housing is almost touching the baseboard, allowing me to slide a well-chosen plastic bag beneath it but nothing bigger.
 
vyv_cox said:
In my layout the housing is almost touching the baseboard, allowing me to slide a well-chosen plastic bag beneath it but nothing bigger.
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Mine is also mounted with just enough space and no more. But fortunately most of the lower part of the compartment is GRP, so there's no great harm in letting it empty onto the plinth and drain into the shower sump, then pump overboard. The standard loo-cleaning regime (squirty stuff, scrubbing, then copious hosing down with hot water via the shower hose) covers any hygiene issue.

Pete
 
go to saving old seagulls forum---the long distance seagull racers (yes there is such a thing) pump fuel from a remote tank via a fuel line----no mess no pouring----regards lenten
 
lenten said:
go to saving old seagulls forum---the long distance seagull racers (yes there is such a thing) pump fuel from a remote tank via a fuel line----no mess no pouring----regards lenten
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But pity no one produces a really small (say 5 litre) remote outboard tank that you could attach an outboard fuel line to
 
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