reefing the main from the cockpit

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b0wen

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Evening all! Was hoping you could provide some advice!

I'm looking to install a reefing system for the main that can be reefed from the cockpit.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the best system?

Currently it's roller reefing around the boom & as I'm single-handed sailing I would rather stay in the cockpit.

I've a snappie 23 by the way!

Thanks in advance!
 
You haven't got any cringles in the luff or the leech so any conversion to slab reefing, let alone from the cockpit is going to involve having those put in by a sailmaker. After that you can start looking at the Barton reefing track to go on the mast and some luff lines coming down the mast, through bullseyes to hold the lines close to the mast, through blocks at the foot of the mast, through a deck organiser and back to clutches on the coachroof. This will be an expensive excercise, although reefing from the cockpit is very nice.

Think about the budget and research some of the above before moving on with this project.
 
Agree with MoodySabre... not a job to be undertaken lightly.
Are you happy with the way the sail sets on the roller reefing, or do you want to upgrade it anyway?
 
Thanks for the replies guys. My main issue, other than having to go to the mast, is that I have to release the kicker when I reef & the boom seems less controlled!
 
We have a super simple system which Ive not seen elsewhere.. reefing line through clamcleat in cockpit to block at base of mast up to turning cleat attached directly near the port luff of the sail at reefing height then down to turning block on forward port side of boom, then aft along boom to another turning block on port aft side of boom, up via reefing clew cringle to finally tie off on starboard aft side of boom. Its much simpler than it sounds, doesnt jam and is a doddle to rig and shakes out also from the cockpit. The only difficulty is attaching the turning block to the sail which is fixed via a small nylon board stitched into the sail to spread the load but I imagine any decent sail loft could do that for a few coins.
 
Contrary to many previous posts I think you will realloy benefit by slab reefing from the cockpit. Firstly as said you must get the sail modified with eyelets or tags for blocks. I think I prefer eyelets. Secondly don't try to do it with single line reefing. You want simple fool proof reefing. If you are not racing you might find that a single deep reef will be all you need. Or perhaps 2 if you are liekly to get caught out in bad bad weather. I have 2 reefs ina large mainsail but really only use the one for relatively short voyages and good weather forecasting.
I use a block set into the boom a short way forward of the clew of the sail that then allows the reefing line to run inside the boom to another turning block in a box just aft of the gooseneck that allows the clew reefing line to tuen towards a turning block on the cabin top hence aft top the winch. A small winch can be quite cheap compared to a clutch so I have 4 halyard /reefing winches on the cabin top for a 21fter TS. You can run the clew reefing line external to the boom if you want. The line goes through a cheek block set at a point just aft of where the clew will be when reefed then back to in my case a saddle on the side of the boom. So reefing line gets a 2 purchase in the eyelet.
I went to internal reefing line with all pulleys and saddles on top[ of the boom to try to minimise danger if booms hits a head. A smoothy boom side is less harmful than a protruding fitting.
At the tack (gooseneck) You start the line from a saddle fitted to the side of the mast and as far forward as possible under the gooseneck. The rope goes from theis saddle up through the eylet and back down to a similar saddle set on the other side and from there down to a turning block then aft to the winches. These saddles are set so that when the tack eyelet is down near the boom (reefed) the 2 ropes pull at 45 degrees to the mast. That is they together pull forward and down. The reefing line at the back the clew also pulls aft and down when tight so the foot of the sail gets stretched as well as pulling the sail down.
Keep an eye on the codition of the rope at the clew as it takes the reaction of the mainsheet pulling down and may chafe at the sail eyelet.
I find when hard on the wind I can reef in moments by simply easing the main halyard about half way. hauling on the clew and tack lines then easing the halyard to the correct point (make a mark) then trimming up the clew and tack lines. Finally harden up the sheet. No need for topping lift even.
If you use slugs on the main sail (probably not if you have roller reefing) then you will need to do without slugs for the bottom of the luff up to the first reef.
You can get a really flat mainsail that works well when reefed if you set it up correctly.
If you use bolt rope in mast as i do then you may find difficulty reefing unless close to the wind. Although you can use the tack lijne to pull the sail down hard against the friction of sail in track when the sail is swung out. Certainly for one reef you can just aignore the bunt of sail dropping down below the boom or just put one tie around it at a point where you can reach it from cockpit. PM me if you have any questions good luck olewill
 
William_H said:
Secondly don't try to do it with single line reefing.
Click to expand...
Why?
My setup is like that described in post #7except the line to the aft end of the boom runs inside the boom & works extremely well
Of course the sail fittings are purpose made so are possibly a little better
Best thing about single line is that it all comes own together with boom nice & level & i do not have to fiddle with 2 lines & swop over on the winch
Neither do i need 2 jammers to hold the ropes ( or 6 for triple reefs)
I think that my main is about 40- 45 M2
 
winsbury said:
why make it more difficult/complex/expensive than it needs to be ?
Click to expand...

Agreed. I converted my Seawych 19 to slab reefing for the cost of a couple of blocks and cleats which I attached to the boom myself. For the OP's size of boat, reefing lines can be quite small diameter, which means that blocks and cleats can be correspondingly small - it all helps to keep the cost down.
 
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