Reducing reefing line size from 8mm to 6mm

[MikeBz]

Half a tonne though?

I wouldn't know how to estimate it accurately, but I know that the way the line 'pings' when I'm winding on the winch does make me wince (maybe my wince-ometer needs calibrating). But then I'm talking about a 32 footer (albeit fairly undercanvassed) not 27 so perhaps not a valid comparison. And possibly a different reefing system, so...

If the reefing line gives way and you've forgotten to keep the topping lift reasonably snug then the boom will drop which could be seriously dangerous (listened to a full emergency services - lifeboat,helicopter etc. - earlier this year where the boom had dropped on a crewmembers head leading to a serious head injury) - so I would very much rather be safe than sorry. The other thing is you don't want it to stretch much either, so possibly another reason to consider dyneema.

 

[Gixer]

Thanks again guys.

I've got a rigid vang so the boom falling won't be a problem.

Its really hard to say 'rigid vang' without sniggering......

 

[GHA]

I wouldn't know how to estimate it accurately, but I know that the way the line 'pings' when I'm winding on the winch does make me wince (maybe my wince-ometer needs calibrating).

Remember as well the reefing eye is effectively double reeved so will be seeing twice the force that is on the line. So half tonne on the line and you've more than a Ford Ka on the reefing eye..

 

[Jokani]

Gixer, I swapped from 8mm to 6mm reefing lines on a Westerly Centaur using Marlow braid-on-braid, I reduced the main halyard from a thicker braid-on-braid to 8mm Barlow D2 Club dyneema, the difference this made in reducing the friction was quite amazing. The main was far easier to hoist, shake out a reef and when the clutch was released the main dropped fully in to the stackpak, made single handing far easier. I never noticed the stretch in the reefing lines using braid.