recommision 10yr unused 5hp Evinrude 2 stroke long shaft

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nyx2k

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i was given a 5hp evinrude 2st today from a friend who has had it in the attic for 10yrs.
model E5BFLCRN
serial B002027

how can i tell age please
do i just buy a fuel line and try and start it or do i need any special consideration for it being sat that long. it looks lige cd ignition so should be ok.

hubby used to do this stuff before he passed away but now the boys want it running as my new 25hp tohatsu was stolen last week and waiting for insurance to pay out.
any advice would be great.
thanks Annie
 
Buy petrol and two stroke oil, mix some up and turn the engine over a few times with the plug out and a bit down he pot. then dry out, plug in and give it a go. Mount in a 210 litre drum or garbage bin full of water. Dont rev it unless you want the bin to fall apart!

If it runs put it on a boat!
 
Check the gearbox oil, put a bit of oil and/or grease on anything that moves. Remove spark plug, put a little oil in the combustion chamber. Pull starter cord a few times to get the oil moved around. Remove propellor. Clean and replace spark plug. Put engine in tub of water. Connect fuel line and try it. If it starts make sure that water is coming out from the pee hole.

If it doesn't start then.............
 
nyx2k said:
i was given a 5hp evinrude 2st today from a friend who has had it in the attic for 10yrs.
model E5BFLCRN
serial B002027

how can i tell age please
do i just buy a fuel line and try and start it or do i need any special consideration for it being sat that long. it looks lige cd ignition so should be ok.

hubby used to do this stuff before he passed away but now the boys want it running as my new 25hp tohatsu was stolen last week and waiting for insurance to pay out.
any advice would be great.
thanks Annie
Click to expand...

Belgium made, long shaft and 1984 as hopefully you discovered.

50:1 fuel mix

Plugs should be Champion QL77JC4, QL86C or L86C
NGK BZ7HS-10 or B7HS-10 will also be OK but with OMC Cd ignition avoid resistor plugs such as NGK BR7HS-10 or any others with a "R" in the number.

The correct ( revised ) plug gap is 0.030" (0.76mm)

If you need a fuel line be sure to get one with a proper OMC connector several others look similar but will either not fit or will leak if you do get them on.


If it has a mixture knob on the front panel set it in the mid point of its movement.


Check or the gear oil as suggested.. It should be "clear and bright" .


Maybe worth reading "Awakening a sleeping outboard" (but a lot will not apply to a small engine ) at http://forums.iboats.com/engine-fre...kening-sleeping-outboard-boatbuoy-158086.html

dont attempt to run it until you have it in some water or you will wreck the water pump impeller.

New pump impeller would be appropriate but not a job you will want to do yourself.

Cooling system is pressurised so you should get a good jet of water from the telltale, not a dribble.
 
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if i can get it running i'll then do a service. I'll try impeller myself as before hubby passed away he wanted me to carry on boating with the children so showed me how to do stuff like replacing gearbox oil and changing impeller on our old 4hp 2st so know about disengaging gear linkages etc.
hoping all will be OK as it was stored in a dry attic and had a full service before it was put away so plugs are shiny like new and everything has grease on it.
annie
 
nyx2k said:
if i can get it running i'll then do a service. I'll try impeller myself as before hubby passed away he wanted me to carry on boating with the children so showed me how to do stuff like replacing gearbox oil and changing impeller on our old 4hp 2st so know about disengaging gear linkages etc.
hoping all will be OK as it was stored in a dry attic and had a full service before it was put away so plugs are shiny like new and everything has grease on it.
annie
Click to expand...

I think you will find no gear linkage to disengage on this one. Shift rod actually turns as opposed to push and pull and when dismantling simply pulls from the mechanism at the top.

BUT its a long shaft so unbolt the 5" extension from the leg and remove it with the gearcase. Then clean all the crud off the drive shaft and remove the extension from the gear case. Reason is that there is, or may be, a nylon bush in the extension ....... There is on mine which is the 6HP Yachtwin The same basic engine!

Fit the extension to the leg first when reassembling.

I damaged the water pump housing by trying to pull the shaft through the bush .... I would have wrecked it if it had not been for the fact that an earlier replacement impeller had a plastic key not a metal one.


By the way there is an awful rubber grommet at the top of the water tube. Corrosion around it squeezes it over the top of the tube until it cuts off the water flow. Powerhead off to get at that I am afraid but Lakesailor has some good pictures that show what I am talking about.


Original plugs were painted same color as the engine. If they are not pained then they have been replaced. Check that resistor plugs are not fitted. BR7HS commonly sold as alternatives for the correct Champion ones....... They will cause you problems if they are .
 
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nyx2k said:
it seems a big power-head for 5hp so maybe a detuned 8hp i think
Click to expand...

5 6 and 8 are all the same basic 164 cc power head

No you cannot uprate it to 8hp before you ask. There are differences in the porting etc ( different inlet manifold and crankcase IIRC) as well as different carb jets.

You might be able to uprate it to 6hp but I dont know what will be required. Carb jets probably

L77JC4 are fine.. QL77JC4 are the same with inductive suppression


scan0010-1.jpg
 
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I like the bit in the advertising about "light and easy to carry on and off the boat". I would not call my 6hp light and easy to carry or am I just getting old. If they had a 6hp nicely developed why would they then detune the same engine to 5HP. Presumably they would have to sell it cheaper?
Interesting that Vic and I have had discussions about Johnson/Evinrude over some years. My old 6hp about 1982 model is dramatically different in some ways especially the connection of the water pump delivery tube top. Possibly made in USA or even Oz and sold in Oz. Yest looks the same as Belgian made. very strange. I think I can accurately say that most of my o/b over 30 years problems have been in the cooling system. Though once the prop shaft snapped off losing the prop and the CD ignition dropped dead. good luck olewill
 
William_H said:
I like the bit in the advertising about "light and easy to carry on and off the boat". I would not call my 6hp light and easy to carry or am I just getting old. If they had a 6hp nicely developed why would they then detune the same engine to 5HP. Presumably they would have to sell it cheaper?
Interesting that Vic and I have had discussions about Johnson/Evinrude over some years. My old 6hp about 1982 model is dramatically different in some ways especially the connection of the water pump delivery tube top. Possibly made in USA or even Oz and sold in Oz. Yest looks the same as Belgian made. very strange. I think I can accurately say that most of my o/b over 30 years problems have been in the cooling system. Though once the prop shaft snapped off losing the prop and the CD ignition dropped dead. good luck olewill
Click to expand...

Mine is a lot heavier now than it was when i bought it nearly 30 years ago........ all the care and attention I suppose .
 
nyx2k said:
i can jsut about lift and carry my 5hp 20mtrs but wouldnt want to move it further
Click to expand...

I'd not attempt to carry mine that distance now .... but it fits into a wheel barrow.


I have the owners manual if you need a scan of any of it.
 
that would be fantastic. just about to go to force4 for the fuel connector.
just dug out an old sack barrow and strapped it onto there. much easier to move now
 
nyx2k said:
that would be fantastic. just about to go to force4 for the fuel connector.
just dug out an old sack barrow and strapped it onto there. much easier to move now
Click to expand...

Speak to Barry at Windsor Marine. He knows exactly what part you need for the fuel connector. I just had a new tank, fuel line and connector off him for my old Evinrude 6. Excellent service http://www.winsormarineservices.co.uk/
 
VicS said:
I'd not attempt to carry mine that distance now .... but it fits into a wheel barrow.


I have the owners manual if you need a scan of any of it.
Click to expand...
I find a golf bag trolley very handy when transporting my outboard. It's collapsible and takes up very little space when folded - unlike a wheelbarrow.
 
ghostlymoron said:
I find a golf bag trolley very handy when transporting my outboard. It's collapsible and takes up very little space when folded - unlike a wheelbarrow.
Click to expand...

Who needs golf trolleys when there's a fleet of wheelbarrows available. Just a few here ;)

SDC11481.JPG
 
she's a runner now.
added fuel but wouldn't go so stripped carb and cleaned it up but still wouldn't run, checked sparks and pretty weak so cleaned ht and plugs and started no problem.

mixture wrong though. i had to screw mixture screw all the way in to get carb off so now don't know where it should be. 10 turns from all in to all out. Ive set it in the middle but still a little rough. anyone know correct position.

thanks for all advice so far...Annie
 
nyx2k said:
she's a runner now.
added fuel but wouldn't go so stripped carb and cleaned it up but still wouldn't run, checked sparks and pretty weak so cleaned ht and plugs and started no problem.

mixture wrong though. i had to screw mixture screw all the way in to get carb off so now don't know where it should be. 10 turns from all in to all out. Ive set it in the middle but still a little rough. anyone know correct position.

thanks for all advice so far...Annie
Click to expand...

With the knob off gently seat the screw. Unscrew it 1½ turns. Start the engine and let it warm up. Reduce the revs to the absolute minimum. Turn the screw in a little at a time until it falters ( reduce the revs if it speeds up) then back the screw out again until it runs smoothly. Refit the knob it the mid point of its range,


Full details at http://forums.iboats.com/engine-fre...sorted-carb-variations-joe-reeves-167352.html


Lots of other items that may be of use or interest at http://forums.iboats.com/engine-frequently-asked-questions-faq-31/

BTW have scanned the owners manual. Will PM you when up loaded to P'bucket. (quite a few pages!)


You know that the knob on the end of the tiller is the idle speed adjustment?
 
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