recommendations for peel and gelcoat repair

[ChrisKaye]

Hi all
I'm a newcomer to this site although I have been boating for a couple of years.
I have recently purchased an 89/90 sunseeker tomahawk 37 that needs a gelcoat peel and repair and I was hoping to get some advice as to whether its a practical proposition to do it myself. The boat is standing on the hard at the mo in Southampton and I have just had it slurry blasted to expose the hull so that the cracks on the hull coould be better examined, unfortunately this has also burst some of the pimples so I am told I cant antifoul and leave the problem for another year, which is what I would prefere to do as my wallet has had enough expense for this year.
If not practical to do it myself is there anyone here, that has the knowledge/experience to do it ? and not charge as much as the specialists have quoted me ? Or would readers advise against this ?
Regards
Chris

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[powerskipper]

If you do it yourself it may devalue your boat, if done by "the ones in the know" Professionals they can certificate it or guarantee it, this would go down well with future purchasers.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://powerskipper.mysite.freeserve.com/>http://powerskipper.mysite.freeserve.com/</A>
Julie

 

[kingfisher]

How many "pimpels"? Does the wet stuff oozing out of them smell like vinegar. If beaucoup pimples, and they contain an acidy liquid: go seek professional help. Otherwise: clean, let dry for a few months, apply International interprotect after having grinded out and refilled the worst bits and anti-foul.

<hr width=100% size=1>Group of people on the pontoon: skipper is the one with the toolbox.
http://sirocco31.tripod.com

 

[ChrisKaye]

Hi and thanks for everyones suggestions
I didnt think that there were many pimples, just very small ones (2-3mm accross) and not even in one confined area just indescriminately around the whole hull. We had to search hard to find them and when popped they do smell of vinegar. I have spoken to Bare Marine at Shamrock Quay and they tell me that its going to be fiddly for them to do each one, easier to plane the whole lot and steam/dry and re-apply gel so I can see their point. Its just so soon after my purchase
I was hoping I could delay the work for a year or so

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[burgundyben]

A boat has not sunk yet due to osmosis.

If you want to delay a year then filler the burst holes, primer and antifoul and drop her back in the drink, osmosis damage happens slowly over long periods and onew more year I suspect wont make the repair any more involved than it will be if you do it now.

About doing it DIY, first its a big job, and a horribly messy working overhead job, there are several health and safety issues, a proffessional outfit will have the kit, inc moisture meters, infra red lamps to dry her out, be well versed in the H and S, think having the job done proffessional will help to sell the boat so might be a factor too. If you go to a firm that really know their onions (and osmosis treatment too) they'll have HOTVAC, this will speed up the repair process as it helps to deal with areas that have a particularly high moisture content. I would strongly reccommend having a word with Jim Hurst at Osmotec at Hamble point. He truly is an expert.

Hope this helps.

<hr width=100% size=1>My house is for sale, 2 beds, Hamble.

 

[ChrisKaye]

Thanks Burgundy Ben,
I was hoping to hear that and coincidentally I was talking to someone at Osmotech at Hamble Point last Monday and I might get them to have a look at it.


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[jfm]

I'd agree with BB. Particularly if you plan on launching her only next March or so, for the 2005 season, then just bodge it for a year. The extra deterioration from say 8months in the water will be nowt, and a professional job in winter 2005/6 will cure it all

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[Marsupial]

OSMOSIS?

I agree, boats dont sink with osmosis, leave it until the job really needs doing - could be another 20 or so years - so save your money enjoy your boat.

Remember if you look for trouble you will find it, and that's how osmosis centres make their money

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[wonging]

Re: OSMOSIS?

Osmosis involving blisters of 3mm on a 14 year old boat is no big deal, it wouldnt even affect the sale price, they need to be more than approximately 15mm in diameter and the hull needs to be peppered with them on a much younger boat to warrant proper treatment/price reductions, as the hull is now cleaned back to the gelcoat, i would just paint a thin coating of epoxy over it, antifoul and forget about it until they become much much bigger, by that time you will probably have the 3 feet itch anyway and sell her, if not you will have enjoyed 14 years of boating and had plenty of time to save up for if/when you really do need the proper treatment

Did you have a survey carried out, which mentioned higher than normal moisture content of hull?

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[oldsaltoz]

G’day Chris,

This is a job you can do yourself, it does not require a lot of tools or skill, just take your time, work to a plan and you should have very few problems.

Start by establishing just how bad the problem is, wait till dark and walk around with a torch and felt pen, mark each blister, you will find a lot more with method.

Next remove the antifoul from the area around each blister and don’t use that disk again as it will be contaminated.

I use a concrete grinding disk to remove the effected glass, it looks like a starfish on a grinding disk, thick in the centre and tapering to the outer edge. Holding the grinding disk at around 15 degrees remove the blister and look for brownish stain, grind until it has all been removed, it may track off to one side of the original blister, just follow it; also look for white areas, with little or no resin, this will be due to poor lay-up or dissolved by osmosis action.

When you have finished grinding, wash the area with plenty of fresh water and leave it to dry out.

Only continue after the hull has dried, this can be done with a moisture meter and may take some time, however as your blisters are small it should not take too long, 2 months at most given average conditions and it may be sooner.

Backfilling must be done only after washing down with acetone and using an epoxy resin and mat designed for use with epoxy, no chopped strand mat as it holds too much resin. Relative humidity must be 74% or less, start laying up after 10 am and stop at 2 pm as the humidity will start to climb and you want your resin to start setting before it gets too high.

Pre cut your mat into circles, start with the smallest and work out building up the layers till almost flush, use a plastic ruler and bend it over the repair to establish the level is correct.

Wash all repaired areas with fresh water and a kitchen scourer, the green plastic type, wash and rub till water no longer forms beads, this removes the residue left from the curing process.

Final fill; use only epoxy resin and closed cell Micro Balloons or ‘Q’ cells, mix to toothpaste thickness and spread with a suitable tool, I use an old straight back saw (Teeth removed) and bend it to conform to the hull shape.

Sand off to a fair finish. As the hull has been blasted I would add a single layer of fibreglass rovings to cover exposed ends if blasted glass, then add 4 coats of epoxy resin, sand and apply suitable paint such as International Interprotect and then polyurethane to finish off.

Avagoodweekend.




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[ChrisKaye]

Thank you all (oldsaltoz, wonging,marsupial and everyone else I forgot) very much for your help
This will be my project for the winter, while the boat is standing on the hard so if any of you see me at Shamrock Quay Southampton, I will be pleased to tell you how I am getting on
Thanks again
Chris

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