Rebuilding my Penta 2002 that wouldn't turn over

Put the coupling bolts in a tighten up in sequence until the gap is closed. If the distance from gearbox flange to stern gland is the same, (and how can it not be?) you must have displaced the shaft slightly backwards during the removal process.
 
centaur1 said:
Rebuild complete. Looks ok.
Lifted into place and gap has appeared at propeler coupling. Thinking the shaft has pushed back through the packing gland during the relocation.
Any thoughts?
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If it is a conventional stuffing box and cutlass bearing arrangement there is nothing to prevent the shaft moving is there ... until the coupling reaches the stern gland or the prop hits the rudder ?
 
Thanks. Got the alignment sorted and the shaft came forward without much trouble.
Now working on the diesel. Bled up to the filter and diesel is present at the injector pump. Nothing appears to be leaving the pumps tho.
The throtle seems to be operating ok and the engine stop looks correct but it was a strange looking mechanism under the cover so maybe its not set up right.
Any views?
 
centaur1 said:
Thanks. Got the alignment sorted and the shaft came forward without much trouble.
Now working on the diesel. Bled up to the filter and diesel is present at the injector pump. Nothing appears to be leaving the pumps tho.
The throtle seems to be operating ok and the engine stop looks correct but it was a strange looking mechanism under the cover so maybe its not set up right.
Any views?
Click to expand...

There's a cover like a large hex nut on the back of the engine at the side near the injectors. If you remove that you can feel the back end of the bar which controls the injectors and feel if it moves when you operate the throttle.
 
Ticking over nicley now but a bit smokey. Light gray and increases with increased reves. Was always smokey before so maybe the injectors need overhauling or replaceing?
Starts easy enough.
 
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Put some treatment in the tank smoke greatly reduced. Have had a few trips out and yesterday a proper sail.
Fairly sure the propelor is fouled so local diver will give it and the hull a scrub tomorrow.
Ill post any developments but think the overhaul is a sucess.
I was very uncertain of the outcome all the way through but with basic engineering skills and lots of help from the forum I managed to get my engine running again.
Thanks to all who contributed and if I can be of any help to anyone in a simelar situation just ask.
 
Always some thing to go wrong.
Just shorted out the altenater. Think the insulation must have allowed a short of the main battery charging lead.
My question is is the distributer plate more than just a cover. Its been melted a bit near the shorted pole.
 

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centaur1 said:
Always some thing to go wrong.
Just shorted out the altenater. Think the insulation must have allowed a short of the main battery charging lead.
My question is is the distributer plate more than just a cover. Its been melted a bit near the shorted pole.
Click to expand...

AFAIK just a plastic cover
 
I think that is achieved by the shims that go under the injector pumps' flanges... There is a special tool for doing it. Best left well alone I think! Have the injectors been serviced at any point recently? Could be that the spray pattern isn't great any more and they need new nozzles...? But.... bear in mind: how far do you want to take this repair? How much do you want to spend? It's likely a 30 year old engine after all...
 
Have discovered the engine is burning oil. About a pint per hour under load???
Back in Wexford for until mid September. Chatting with two mechanics and both suggested the valve stem seals.
During the stripdown and rebuild I didn't change or even notice these! As I was very careful on removing the valves I find it incredulous that I could have missed them if they became detached so possibly they are still in place but damaged in some way, maybe by my forceing the stems through��
Anyway checked the web and find two schools of thought. One advises replacement, the other seems to think they are not required in the exhaust valves. This one doesn't mention the intake so presumably they are all agreed the are needed on the intake valve stems.
Anyway I have purchased 4 from Volvo and plan to fit them in my return.
Any views?
 
The pressure on the valve head end of the exhaust valve will tend to push oil back up into the head rather than allow it to drain down whilst the engine is running. There may be some residual oil loss when the engine is stationary though, so if the head is coming off it would probably be worth replacing all of them.

Did you check the play of the valve stems in the head/guides? If there is wear there it will tend to wear through seals more quickly and exacerbate oil burning. Probably worth replacing valves and guides (if replaceable) if there is wear. Deciding what level of play is acceptable is the main problem unless there is clearly none .... or a great deal. :(

Richard
 
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Seals on the exhaust are less challenged than on inlet due to pressures etc. but I'd change both whilst the work is being done.
Thought:- 1 pint/ hr seems a tad high for just worn valve seals, but I'm basing that view on old cars I've owned a years ago.
Over to other views!
 
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