re-varnising

He used the wrong primer. For Mahogany, you need the red primer, for teak the yellow (clear). The teak looks wonderful with the clear primer, the mahogany, I would use half and half. All the top coats are clear. Masts and spars, mine are columbian pine, looks fantastic with the clear primer, it brings out the red colour of the pine wonderfully, everybody remarks on it.
 
Sounds great! I'm planning to coat my oregon pine mast with it as well. Some say you need dry and temperate climate when you apply coelan. I'll wait until springtime. Hopefully it will last for 10+ years.
 
I used to work with Epifanes and many others. Every year the same full job of scraping sanding and revarnishing. Varnish is no longer a product I will ever use. Coelan looks nice and impressive on boat shows but in prolonged humid weather it turns whitish and I have heard that humidity underneath starts degrading the wood causing the Coelant to let loose.
The Deksolje results in a very nice rich looking finish.

Regards Willem
 
Dear boat lover, Vincent
The oil is called Deksolje, a Scandinavian product made by OWATROL. D1 quality ( viscosity like water) must be applied wet on wet until saturation. This leaves a satin anti slip finish. Is UV resistant, can be finished off with 3 to 6 coats of D2 which is a flexible high gloss finish. Any damaged area can easily be repaired by sanding with a fine paper (300 - 400 grade ) soaked in D1. after drying time it is easily recovered with D2. Much simpler and a lot less work. Result is a perfect undetectable repair job.

The nice thing about it is that D1 protects the wood from within and does not only applies a protective film. A scratch in the finish does not mean yellowing of varnish and rot start.
Two years ago I inspected a 50 year old wooden boat that had mainly been sailing in the Baltic sea and had only been treated with D1. Under the floors and the far away corners the wood was like new and showed no deterioration what so ever.

Good luck
Willem
 
Willem,
I dont scrape back my varnish (Epifanes ) everyyear, because I put 12 coats on in the first place, I just wet or dry, twicwe a year and put two coats on. It's been fine for three years now, in the meddy. When in the UK, I just didn't get enough good days to get enough on!! But the new product, "Hardhout olie", which you can buyild up without sanding between coats, is a godsend. The coelans, doesn't go white, only with prolonged rain, but then drys clear again. it allows the wood to breath, thus allowing it to not push the coating off. I do believe they have now re-formulated the stuff, since I put mine on and now, according to my brother, in UK, doesn't go white like mine does. I can put up with that, it does not allow the wood to rot underneath it either. Have you tried the stuff? My spars look magnificent and the rest is fine. Tried Deks, not again, went black and horrible, tried most things over the past 25 years of wooden boat ownership, I use epifanes and Coelans now. I will continue to do so, until a better product comes up, which still shows the true colour of the wood, don't mention ceetol!
 
Aaaagh!
Stick with a decent quality oil based marine varnish. In brief it will move with the wood, Fibreglass won't, It will crack, water gets behind it, recipe for disaster, Just bought lovely steel sloop, with mahogany topsides, clear glassed, water has got in, now whole bloody lot to strip back and varnish, Its probably halved the purchase price though, because of the amount of work to be done so could be argued that it has done some good. Best of luck, Mick
 
Have tried them all. For longevity, low maintenance use UCP (two coats thinned 25 per cent) on bare wood. (Won't work on teak). Then as many coats of Epifanes or Ravillak as you can be bothered. That will give high-gloss finish.

Or, lob on wood oil and rub over whenever it dulls. Cheap teak oil from B&Q, or expensive Varnol (which smells fantastic when cut with pure turpentine). Makes no odds.

Question is: high gloss, traditional or cheap, easy, matt oiled look.

Choose, then decide. But as a first coat UCP (International Universal Clear Primer) is bulletproof. But must be overcoated (or protected with canvas cover).
 
I got some varnish that is suppost to be able to withstand the local conditions. I cant remember the name as the tin is in the garage and I'm to lazy to go and look. so far I've put on eight coats and it is realy looking good.
But only time will tell if it is any good>>
 
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