Re-finishing cabin floorboards

[Jennyol]

Unfortunately I didn't read through suggestions on these forums as to how to go about this before tackling the job of stripping back my floorboards (plywood with a teak veneer and Holly detail)
As a result I now have a patchy result where I sanded off some of the teak veneer (it must be VERY thin). Not realizing the problem I went ahead and applied three coats of Ronseal Diamond glaze.
So I am pretty back at square one, stripping off the varnish. Should I strip it back carefully and apply a teak stain before finishing again with the floor varnish, any ideas? I am not that keen on putting on carpet tiles or the like as it is essentially a racing boat and I wouldn't want to add on weight.

 

[Talulah]

Not realizing the problem I went ahead and applied three coats of Ronseal Diamond glaze.

Incidentally, I found that Ronseal Diamond Glaze isn't really up to it. I contacted Ronseal before I used it. They stated that none of their products were suitable but I went ahead anyway. I won't be re-using it.

 

[Georgio]

I have been using Blakes Dura-satin on my cabin floor for a few years and it works well. I used Rolseal diamond hard on the oak floors at home and it is no where near as good.

You could try to and re-veneer the floor, Robins Timber will sell you the teak veneer.

 

[rob2]

Unfortunately, if you've sanded through the veneer, then nothing will effect a compete repair, and trying to patch the veneer would be a mare of a job. Staining the affected area might stop the eyes from being drawn to it so much, though. My experience of ply panels is that unless you were to veneer the whole panel, then replacement is by far the easiest and therefore most cost effective solution.

Rob.

 

[chinita]

Unfortunately, if you've sanded through the veneer, then nothing will effect a compete repair, and trying to patch the veneer would be a mare of a job. Staining the affected area might stop the eyes from being drawn to it so much, though. My experience of ply panels is that unless you were to veneer the whole panel, then replacement is by far the easiest and therefore most cost effective solution.

Rob.

Sadly, I agree. I made the same mistake when sanding a locker door. I thought it was solid teak and was horrified to see the layer of ply peel off.

I varnished over it but I can still see it is ply. One day I will do it properly.

Have a look at Robbins Timber website and cost out new replacement.

 

[VicMallows]

Agree with all the comments about over-zealous sanding. (next time use paint stripper followed by VERY light sanding). I have used various finishes ranging from very expensive 2-part coatings; through highly volatile 'specialist' floor coatings; and have concluded that ordinary basic floor varnish as sold by the likes of Wickes/Screwfix/etc lasts best of all!

Vic

 

[ms.lau]

if you don't want to replace, could you sand it back, stain ply to a teak colour and then paint on a yellow "holly" stripe? then varnish. damned if i can tell whether the "holly" stripe on my floor is paint or veneer...

(i hope i understood your question).

laura

 

[Jennyol]

Messing up the floorboards

Thank you for all your replies and suggestions. I am reluctant to replace the floorboards completely just because of a cosmetic defect. So my inclination is to try to make the best of it and work with what I have, using a bit of stain and then finishing with a floor varnish. Will the Blakes/hempel varnish react with a water based teak stain?

 

[ms.lau]

shouldn't do if you allow it to dry properly before applying varnish.

laura

 

[Sandyman]

What the hell are floorboards on a boat ?? 6 foot below the ceiling I suppose !!!

 

[ms.lau]

navigation, eh?

thought i was looking at a thread about the op's cabin sole. find myself in pedants corner....

laura

 

[late-night-lochin]

Thank you for all your replies and suggestions. I am reluctant to replace the floorboards completely just because of a cosmetic defect. So my inclination is to try to make the best of it and work with what I have, using a bit of stain and then finishing with a floor varnish. Will the Blakes/hempel varnish react with a water based teak stain?

I can't understand why people use that teak and holly veneered ply for cabin soles. The outer veneers are so thin that IMO it's just not fit for purpose, however...

Water based stain can be good, you need to wet the surface of the wood before you apply it, leave it to dry and then sand it smooth again becaue the water base for the stain can raise the wood grain.

Two other alternatives, first the cheap one - paint the floor with non-slip paint. Might not be pretty but I don't think your teak and holly is ever going to look pretty again.

Sand the floor panels flat then teak plank them with 3mm thick strips. I believe Robbins Timber have a data sheet on their web site for doing this. Then oil finish it. This would look pretty and would be much harder wearing than any teak and holly veneer floor.

Best of luck!

 

[PCUK]

Spend a happy day re-veneering it. It's a very easy and pleasant job and very satisfying when finished.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

I don't have a problem with veneers but I would really like to know what treatment I should give the sole when all the other restoration work is finished. It is the first time that I have had a boat with a proper wooden flooring that is made from solid wood as may be seen from the little inspection panel that is lying on the table.

 

[Vara]

I treated my teak/holly veneer cabin sole with Wilkinsons satin finish(water based) floor varnish. Two and a half years later it shows no sign of deterioration.

Caveat, if you don't like the finish after you have done it, water based varnish is an absolute sod to strip off, nitromors hardly touches it, so its down to scraping and sanding, with the associated risk of breaching the veneer.

 

[PetiteFleur]

if you don't want to replace, could you sand it back, stain ply to a teak colour and then paint on a yellow "holly" stripe? then varnish. damned if i can tell whether the "holly" stripe on my floor is paint or veneer...

(i hope i understood your question).

laura

That is in fact what I did - the original ply was in fact stained teak colour stripes on the ply. Then varnished using International one coat polyurethane. Has lasted 5 years so far.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

I don't have a problem with veneers but I would really like to know what treatment I should give the sole when all the other restoration work is finished. It is the first time that I have had a boat with a proper wooden flooring that is made from solid wood as may be seen from the little inspection panel that is lying on the table.

Bump!

Any advice or suggestions as to what treatment I should apply to the sole of my boat please?

TIA

 

[VicMallows]

Well there have been several suggestions in the thread. You do have the enormous advantage that if whatever finish you choose doesn't work out, you have lots of solid wood and can safely sand back and start all over again

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

Well there have been several suggestions in the thread. You do have the enormous advantage that if whatever finish you choose doesn't work out, you have lots of solid wood and can safely sand back and start all over again

That is true but having spent the best part of yesterday unscrewing it from the supporting floor bearers so that I can remove the water bladder and clean the inside of the keel it is not something that I wish to do too often!

You mentioned earlier "ordinary basic floor varnish". Living in a country where floors are covered in terrazzo or ceramic tiles I am not too certain what type of "floor" varnish you are suggesting. Boat varnishes with which I am familiar include Epifanes, Le Tonkinois and the venerable Spinnaker label. This latter I imagine would be too soft. Would one of the others be suitable do you think? Temperature in the cabin would regularly be over thirty degrees in summer. Thanks.

 

[Martin_J]

Oil!

I recently had a guest on board who had for many years run a woodwork and fine furniture/veneering business. When I asked them about what to do the woodwork on my s38 - both to touch up any scratches with and to maintain remaining surfaces for the future they said - finishing oil

Not sure what this was they gave me a tin which I have yet to try. The runs down the side of the tin do however appear to be as hard as rock - I am unable to make any scratch impressions on the runs unlike with most varnishes.

Seems like you get a matt or gloss finish (or anything you want in between) depending on how you apply it.

http://www.puretree.co.uk/shop/wood...led-finishes/22-liberon-finishing-oil-1-litre

Seems like it's good for terracotta tiles (as in post above), childrens wooden toys, floors and even cork! Any comments? Sounds too good to be true.

They have used it on their boat and it does look like an original manufacturer finish with the slight graininess still showing through the surface - something which I don't want to lose with heavy varnish.