Re. annual service on Antares 30 fly ( Yanmar engine )

[Lisa&Paul]

Hi , Having made our 1st boat purchase of the above back in January the previous one owners from new have informed us that due to no Yanmar service agents in Cyprus that they used to fly over from Turkey a Yanmar engineer for the annual service . Obviously to us this adds a considerable cost plus the Covid 19 situation increases the difficulty .

My question is two fold .....

1/ Our marina has service capability for most other engine manufacturers but not specific to Yanmar , so would we get a sub standard service going down this route as they may use non brand named filters etc. Given that as i am aware it is quite normal to utilise 'off the shelf unbranded parts' for certain jobs , which direction would any owners of the Antares 30 fly fitted with the Yanmar unit go ?

2/ We are allowed one free lift for antifouling included in the annual fees , what other service/maintenance/visual checks should be carried out whilst boat is out of the water ?

Any help would be appreciated as this is a big step up for us from a Jetski lol , while we don't want to cut corners with safety and reliability we would like to avoid unnecessary expense and avoid as 'newbies ' being shafted ( given she is shaft driven so quite apt )

Regards ,

Paul

 

[Irish Rover]

I'm guessing the Yanmar service in Nicosia won't do a service in Northern Cyprus? Anyway if the engines are no longer under guarantee it seems crazy flying in an engineer for a routine service. Yanmars are straight forward, uncomplicated engines and any competent diesel mechanic should be able to do the job for you. If you want to use original Yanmar parts (I don't on mine) just get him to preorder what's needed. I get my Yanmars serviced by the VP guys in my marina even though there's an authorised Yanmar servicer practically next door - I'm sure you can guess why.
Don't forget to replace the shaft anodes when it's lifted.

 

[baldyash]

I use keyparts in UK for all my service parts.They access all yanmar parts (they are a bit cheaper than buying from a main Dealer )
apart from the non yanmar fuel filter, and engine zinc. My engineer then does the work. It does not look too hard apart from the impeller which is a pig to access as it's on the port side of the engine and involves crawling via the lazzerette down the side . He takes the pump off and changes the impeller in the workshop as he says it's the easiest option. The zinc he supplies. Change all the anodes.2 on rudder,one ( it's a 45mm on) on the prop, and one on the port side of the transom.Clean the prop so it shines using a flap disc on an angle grinder .Anything else takes ages. Clean the prop shaft back to metal.Its stainless.Check the p bracket for play and clean it back as much as possible.Its copper or brass but its awkward to clean.Clean the water inlet for the engine. Work all the sea cocks and lubricate whilst out.Make sure anti foul doesn't stick the bow thruster blades to the tunnel.

 

[Lisa&Paul]

I'm guessing the Yanmar service in Nicosia won't do a service in Northern Cyprus? Anyway if the engines are no longer under guarantee it seems crazy flying in an engineer for a routine service. Yanmars are straight forward, uncomplicated engines and any competent diesel mechanic should be able to do the job for you. If you want to use original Yanmar parts (I don't on mine) just get him to preorder what's needed. I get my Yanmars serviced by the VP guys in my marina even though there's an authorised Yanmar servicer practically next door - I'm sure you can guess why.
Don't forget to replace the shaft anodes when it's lifted.

Thank you for your reply , yes i had thought that they had gone down that route to comply with warranty but at 10 years old i am guessing that is out the equation . Your right re Nicosia as we are the Black Plague in the North ( unless it's for visits to the casino's or ' night clubs ' lol )

So i have done a little research regarding filters required generally on Ebay as am quite accustomed to utilising unbranded copies which suffice really well and keep your bank balance handy , but wondered if purchasing and taking over on the flight is really worth it or risk marina mechanic being able to source local , failing that Turkey is only 40 miles away by boat and i am sure they can order brand name from Yanmar if needed ,

Thanks again

 

[Lisa&Paul]

I use keyparts in UK for all my service parts.They access all yanmar parts (they are a bit cheaper than buying from a main Dealer )
apart from the non yanmar fuel filter, and engine zinc. My engineer then does the work. It does not look too hard apart from the impeller which is a pig to access as it's on the port side of the engine and involves crawling via the lazzerette down the side . He takes the pump off and changes the impeller in the workshop as he says it's the easiest option. The zinc he supplies. Change all the anodes.2 on rudder,one ( it's a 45mm on) on the prop, and one on the port side of the transom.Clean the prop so it shines using a flap disc on an angle grinder .Anything else takes ages. Clean the prop shaft back to metal.Its stainless.Check the p bracket for play and clean it back as much as possible.Its copper or brass but its awkward to clean.Clean the water inlet for the engine. Work all the sea cocks and lubricate whilst out.Make sure anti foul doesn't stick the bow thruster blades to the tunnel.

Hi ,
Thank you for the info and check list . I will perhaps give Keyparts a look , hopefully knowing the Engine model will suffice as i don't have any vin plate info for the engine until we have all the paperwork in our hands from our seller ,. If i can take all the service parts required with me would save some hassle .....................Any thoughts on a list as not sure how many filters i need or would Keyparts supply a full service kit for the given model no ?

 

[baldyash]

Hope this helps. You need 2 v belts by the way. I had to reorder a 2nd one
Anodes {45 mm prop anode and others were generic} were bought locally apart from small engine anode which was supplied by my mech. French marine in UK have a list of parts on their Web site which is useful as they are yanmar dealers.

 

[Lisa&Paul]

I use keyparts in UK for all my service parts.They access all yanmar parts (they are a bit cheaper than buying from a main Dealer )
apart from the non yanmar fuel filter, and engine zinc. My engineer then does the work. It does not look too hard apart from the impeller which is a pig to access as it's on the port side of the engine and involves crawling via the lazzerette down the side . He takes the pump off and changes the impeller in the workshop as he says it's the easiest option. The zinc he supplies. Change all the anodes.2 on rudder,one ( it's a 45mm on) on the prop, and one on the port side of the transom.Clean the prop so it shines using a flap disc on an angle grinder .Anything else takes ages. Clean the prop shaft back to metal.Its stainless.Check the p bracket for play and clean it back as much as possible.Its copper or brass but its awkward to clean.Clean the water inlet for the engine. Work all the sea cocks and lubricate whilst out.Make sure anti foul doesn't stick the bow thruster blades to the tunnel.

Hi what is best lubricant for sea cocks and zinc ? is this paint

Hope this helps. You need 2 v belts by the way. I had to reorder a 2nd one
Anodes {45 mm prop anode and others were generic} were bought locally apart from small engine anode which was supplied by my mech. French marine in UK have a list of parts on their Web site which is useful as they are yanmar dealers.

Hi ,
Thanks for that very valuable info which i have printed off for future reference , i think we will order the full service kit except the oil and take with us to Cyprus and use Marina mechanic for our 1st service then research local cost/availability for future reference.

Regards Paul

 

[baldyash]

Zincs are sacrificial Anodes that deplete in salt water, otherwise the prop and other underwater metal parts would deplete instead. Not a good thing to happen! See pic for prop anode, others are a disc about 3 or 4 inches in dia. 2 on rudder and 1 on port side of transom. If u have a stern thruster there may be a very small one on the prop in the tunnel, bow thruster, mine has none

 

[Lisa&Paul]

Hi Baldyash,

Thanks again for your reply , I was ok with the need for anode replacement and following your previous msg of assistance have an idea of how many and the size/sorts required thank you, it was mainly when you just used the term zinc that got my brain working overtime lol. Having placed the order with Keyparts in the end as worked out cheaper only to receive an email that they were out of stock of the two belts required for at least two weeks , all the other filters , impeller kit etc are in stock . The oil we will purchase when abroad as obviously weight restricted .

1/ Is there a time scale for replacing the impeller bits as cant see it listed on past service history , so is it a case of better safe than sorry ?
2/ Being quite useful at general DIY i intend to clean , polish and wax the bodywork above the water line utilising an electric polisher , having purchased all the products recommended by posts on here , are there any other invaluable tools, products or hints you can give me that may be difficult to come by in Cyprus ?

Then i will leave you in peace and thanks again for your help and advice.

Regards.

Paul

 

[baldyash]

Wessex 2 part teak cleaner and renovator is really good and was recommended and is really easy to use. Impeller really depends on usage hrs and your preferences. I don't us the boat much and change it every other year. Every time it comes out like new! Tappets need checking periodically, see Manual. Flexible gas pipe is time dependent. ( I havn't done mine !!) Mine has blown the internal fuse in the battery charger twice.It melted! It's under the floor between the seat and helm. If you hear the charger fan going fuse is ok,I think. My voltmeter shows only 10-11 volts when engine is off and takes 5 mins or so when running to show 13 or so volts. Everything has Been checked and all ok so just seems to be what it is. It's been like it for 10 years so must be ok. A quirk of the ECU. Batts are new and alternator is ok.Good luck.Its a great package
Stuart

 

[Lisa&Paul]

Wessex 2 part teak cleaner and renovator is really good and was recommended and is really easy to use. Impeller really depends on usage hrs and your preferences. I don't us the boat much and change it every other year. Every time it comes out like new! Tappets need checking periodically, see Manual. Flexible gas pipe is time dependent. ( I havn't done mine !!) Mine has blown the internal fuse in the battery charger twice.It melted! It's under the floor between the seat and helm. If you hear the charger fan going fuse is ok,I think. My voltmeter shows only 10-11 volts when engine is off and takes 5 mins or so when running to show 13 or so volts. Everything has Been checked and all ok so just seems to be what it is. It's been like it for 10 years so must be ok. A quirk of the ECU. Batts are new and alternator is ok.Good luck.Its a great package
Stuart

Thanks again Stuart ,

Will take a replacement gas pipe as we sell them in the UK along with Calor Gas ( hope you were'nt t using Yank slang for the fuel pipe lol )

Are boat fuses the same as car fuses or household fuses ?

Is there a general fuse box on the boat ( if so where is it located ) or are things just independantly fused ?

Apologies for any stupid questions but knowledge is everything

Last question time ...promise

Regards,

Paul

 

[Rangerman]

Hi, if you undo the latch on the middle step down into the double berth and then remove it both the batteries and the fuse boxes are there. Boat fuses tend to be resettable breakers but are interchangeable with auto mini fuses
hope it helps