Raymarine rudder position sensor

Graham_Wright

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Joined
30 Dec 2002
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Location
Gloucestershire
www.mastaclimba.com
As promised, I have attached a few piccies of the sensor dismantled to aid or give courage to any who have a failed unit.

Disassembly is straightforward. Three small screws hold the back cover (and they are small!). This esposes the potentiometer with a three core cable attached. Connections on the original Vishay Spectrol are red and green to the ends and blue to the wiper.

The actuating arm is secured with a roll pin which pushes out fairly easily (I used a 2.5 mm drill and a soft hammer).

There is a centering spring although I don't understand why as the rod attachment to the tiller will overrule it. I suspect it may have been pretensioned as a 180° rotation of the arm is required to realign it. An inclined top to one of the posts permits this (at least before the roll pin is re-inserted as the arm need to lift slightly).

The pot is secured to a disc with three screws but to remove it you will need to detach the cables from the turret pins, snip the cable tie on the inside of the unit and withdraw the cable.

The pot shaft is threaded through two O rings and a fibre washer.

The replacement pot I sourced is from my usual supplier;-
Long Shaft 16mm Mono Mixer Pot, Linear B Potentiometer Various Values ( item: 120941785296 transaction: 1214893256002 )
at a cost of £2.95.

It is long shaft which is just about correct length but has no hole for the roll pin or a flat for location on the actuating arm. These will require a little metalwork but avoid vibrations being transmitted to the track by securing and thus damping the arm with a mole grip or the like. It is carbon track as opposed to the Vishay one which is conductive plastic.

Re-assembly and replacement are a reverse of dismantling (as "they" glibly say!). Although the case is magnetic (=steel) the shaft is not. How suitable it is for different environments, I don't know but my installation is dry below decks.

As my original Vishay pot has performed very, very few rotations, I cannot understand the failure and will offer it to Vishay for their DI department. They may even be interested :rolleyes:.
 
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Although the pot has done fairly few rotations, it could well have been continuously moving a few degrees as a result of the rudder moving on the mooring.
It does not surprise me that a common or garden linear pot has not survived long.
Last industrial servo pot we bought was more like £40 IIRC.
 
Although the pot has done fairly few rotations, it could well have been continuously moving a few degrees as a result of the rudder moving on the mooring.
It does not surprise me that a common or garden linear pot has not survived long.
Last industrial servo pot we bought was more like £40 IIRC.

Er………the sensor had never been fitted! I connected it to the autopilot and the AP control and it worked fine for a while then developed a dead band in the middle. Might be worth while reading the original post - http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?383669-Raymarine

I found a Vishay pot on ebay with the correct resistance but too short a shaft. That was £37! The correct one is a Raymarine special. I am sure it would be an awful lot more if indeed they would supply me.

I'll ask out of curiosity.
 
Raymarine top quality?

Raymarine rudder sensor, not my favourite piece of equipment. I fitted the one in the pic brand new. Working around the rudder quadrant requires real contortion and is not for claustrophobes (if that's how you spell it) Wasted a few hours trying to get it to work but eventually removed and took the lid off to see the failed solder connection. I remade the joint and refitted it, all works. With that level of quality control I have avoided Raymarine since.
 
It's there to make sure any play in the system is pushed out. That way the same rudder position will always give the same reading.

I guess if the linkage wears it would do just that. To align the arm with the body (they are reference marked) requires the spring to be wound half a turn so it is not a centring spring at all - apologies. One of the stops on the body actually has an inclined face to allow the arm to "ratchet" over it.
 
Anyway thanks for sharing, I had been wondering about the insides of the device myself. I do hope your replacement potentiometer will be up for the task as I agree with one of the other posters that a "normal" potentiometer may wear out quite fast.
The one in our boat has survived for a decade now as factory original. I just hooked up a rudder instrument to the seatalk network and that works ok, although the seatalk is a bit slow resulting in a lag on the instrument.
 
Anyway thanks for sharing, I had been wondering about the insides of the device myself. I do hope your replacement potentiometer will be up for the task as I agree with one of the other posters that a "normal" potentiometer may wear out quite fast.
The one in our boat has survived for a decade now as factory original. I just hooked up a rudder instrument to the seatalk network and that works ok, although the seatalk is a bit slow resulting in a lag on the instrument.

The original Vishay pot was/is a conductive plastic variety. (I've just checked on ebay and there is a Volvo trim pot at £5795!).

I don't know what determines the life of a pot but "conductive plastic" appears anywhere upwards from £1.57 with a "quality Contelec" equivalent at £5.99.

In the interest of the forum, I am quite happy to exercise the current candidate to death to ascertain some facts.
 
Er………the sensor had never been fitted! I connected it to the autopilot and the AP control and it worked fine for a while then developed a dead band in the middle. Might be worth while reading the original post - http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?383669-Raymarine

I found a Vishay pot on ebay with the correct resistance but too short a shaft. That was £37! The correct one is a Raymarine special. I am sure it would be an awful lot more if indeed they would supply me.

I'll ask out of curiosity.

The fault may be nothing more complicated than the wiper lifting off the track as it passes over an area of hardened grease on the track. Speed of rotation can also be a factor; I've known a pot display intermittent wiper disconnect in one direction only when rotating over a certain speed. This was caused by a bow-wave in the grease ahead of the wiper; not a single fault either but a few percent on some high volume, top of the range industrial kit.
 
The OP has asked me to add my findings to this thread.
It's a bit long but will be of help if you have this problem.
I have had several of these units fail but until I read this post I had just replaced them. Now I have had a look and this is what I have found...
The potentiometer can seize. When it does it breaks the tiny plastic pin holding it in place and the whole thing rotates with the arm, sometimes breaking the wires as well.
To repair...
Once taken apart as described above, free off the pot ... I found switch cleaner to be of help. The pot arm can rotate through 360 deg so it's fairly easy to free.
The resistances of the wires are as follows... Red/green 5kohm +/- 5% The values between the stops for the blue/green wires are 1.66 to 3.3 kohm. So at the mid centre point the value is 2.48kohm.
The flat on the spindle points aft at the mid point and the plastic plate which holds the pot has three screw holes in a Y pattern. Looking inside the unit the left branch of the Y points aft.
So the trick is to set the pot to 2.48 and line up the flat on the spindle with this screw hole and tighten the nut, a spring washer may be a good idea, I just held everything firm and tightened the nut up hard.
Then reassemble the unit. Check the values stop to stop before finally fitting the arm with the spring.
The spring can be tricky, stretch it a bit, then with the arm aft rotate anticlockwise until it drops into place and fit the roll pin.
Voila! You have just saved yourself £180. Thank you Graham_Wright :)
 
The replacement pot I sourced is from my usual supplier;-
Long Shaft 16mm Mono Mixer Pot, Linear B Potentiometer Various Values ( item: 120941785296 transaction: 1214893256002 )
at a cost of £2.95.
Graham_Wright,
Could you, please, be more specific about manufacturer and model of the replacement potentiometer, as well as info about your 'usual supplier'? I live on a boat in Panama and have no access to any component stores. I was trying to locate a similar pot online, but failed:(.
Thank you!
 
Graham_Wright,
Could you, please, be more specific about manufacturer and model of the replacement potentiometer, as well as info about your 'usual supplier'? I live on a boat in Panama and have no access to any component stores. I was trying to locate a similar pot online, but failed:(.
Thank you!
Proberbly RS - Radio Spares

http://uk.rs-online.com
 
Did the photos get removed? I can not see them.
My Rudder position went haywire the other day. I started to take mine apart but would like to use the photos as reference.
The unit did feel hard to turn then suddenly was very easy to turn so maybe the pot did seize then broke?
 
As promised, I have attached a few piccies of the sensor dismantled to aid or give courage to any who have a failed unit.

Disassembly is straightforward. Three small screws hold the back cover (and they are small!). This esposes the potentiometer with a three core cable attached. Connections on the original Vishay Spectrol are red and green to the ends and blue to the wiper.

The actuating arm is secured with a roll pin which pushes out fairly easily (I used a 2.5 mm drill and a soft hammer).

There is a centering spring although I don't understand why as the rod attachment to the tiller will overrule it. I suspect it may have been pretensioned as a 180° rotation of the arm is required to realign it. An inclined top to one of the posts permits this (at least before the roll pin is re-inserted as the arm need to lift slightly).

The pot is secured to a disc with three screws but to remove it you will need to detach the cables from the turret pins, snip the cable tie on the inside of the unit and withdraw the cable.

The pot shaft is threaded through two O rings and a fibre washer.

The replacement pot I sourced is from my usual supplier;-
Long Shaft 16mm Mono Mixer Pot, Linear B Potentiometer Various Values ( item: 120941785296 transaction: 1214893256002 )
at a cost of £2.95.

It is long shaft which is just about correct length but has no hole for the roll pin or a flat for location on the actuating arm. These will require a little metalwork but avoid vibrations being transmitted to the track by securing and thus damping the arm with a mole grip or the like. It is carbon track as opposed to the Vishay one which is conductive plastic.

Re-assembly and replacement are a reverse of dismantling (as "they" glibly say!). Although the case is magnetic (=steel) the shaft is not. How suitable it is for different environments, I don't know but my installation is dry below decks.

As my original Vishay pot has performed very, very few rotations, I cannot understand the failure and will offer it to Vishay for their DI department. They may even be interested :rolleyes:.
Hi Graham, you mention pictures: where can i see these. Have difficulties removing the arm pin, mine is steel
 
This is brilliant. Exactly what I hoped I would find when looking to avoid spending £300 on what could be a sub £5 component- very pleasingly turned out to be zero spend. Ok, a few hours, but very straightforward with the instructions given. Problem was indeed the little plastic holding pin having sheared off as mentioned.
Thank you Graham and ybw- I very rarely give feedback, but it’s definitely due here.
One note- after removing retaining pin holding the arm, it was still a brute to remove. Probably 20 years of not needing to move.
 
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