Yngmar
Well-Known Member
It seen likely that our course compute may have seen better day .
It's the old type S2 pilot.
Problem is will a new compute fit with all the other instrument or will I have to buy add on bits ?
Any help would be great .
If any one who may had the same problem I be interested how you may have sorted the problem .
Problem ..once turned on the display says standby but after 10 second saying no link and the steering locks as if it's in auto .
Only way to release the lock steering is to turn it off or as I did remover the clutch cables from the computer.
Hey Vic, regarding your old unit, I'm confused. If the steering locks, it's because the clutch is engaged, which should never happen while the autopilot is on standby unless its brains are totally fried. But you also say you removed the clutch cables from the autopilot computer, in which case it shouldn't even be able to engage the clutch even if its logic were totally fried. That would point to a problem with the clutch in the steering motor instead - unlikely to jam, but could happen. You do want to rule this out before spending a lot of money on a new course computer and associated bits and then it turns out the drive unit was at fault the whole time.
As for upgrading, the current models from Raymarine are the Evolution series, which are NMEA2000 (Seatalk NG) based. To hook them up to your existing ST60 (Seatalk1) bus, you also need this converter kit. This will then interface data both ways, so the new autopilot will be able to steer to wind etc. and you will have all data on both buses for chartplotters etc. It's a good path to go if you want to upgrade things bit by bit.
The Evolution autopilot itself needs a new course computer of suitable size for your autopilot drive unit (motor amperage and clutch matter here - beware, not all the ACU models support a clutch output, see table here). Then the fluxgate compass gets replaced with the EV sensor. You can keep the rudder position sensor you already have.
As for the control head, I had to dig a bit, but the manual for the above mentioned converter kit does say that you can keep your existing ST6000 control head (the thing with the display and buttons) and use it (via the converter kit) to control a new ACU on the Seatalk NG side. So you don't have to buy the new and pricey P70 control head as well, unless you want to. I'm not sure how well this will work in reality regarding all the calibration working correctly though, and usually there are bundle deals for the ACU, EV sensor and P70 head, so it may make sense to get the bundle instead and replace the control head as well.
We're back in Licata in early October and if you happen to be there I'm happy to have a look in person and talk it through.