Raymarine autopilot - hydraulic pump probs

jimmy_the_builder

jimmy_the_builder

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As part of my winter refit I replaced all the nav electronics on the boat, inc the autopilot. For this I bought the ev100-based package, which includes the the ev100 computer, the p70r controller, the acu100 control unit and a type 0.5 pump. The electrical side of the installation was v straightforward, and although I know absolutely nothing at all about hydraulics, the installation of the pump itself also seemed straightforward enough.

However, since commissioning, the autopilot doesn't work - I always get 'drive stopped' messages. The configuration is correct, and for extra confusion, the 'dockside wizard' seemed to work ok in that the autopilot was able to move the drives from hard over port to hard over starboard without problems. But out at sea, on every occasion except one, the autopilot fails with 'drive stopped'. The one occasion that it did work was (ironically) the other day when I had to limp back into port on one engine after outdrive problems caused by my bushed propellor.

I called Raymarine tech support and they suggested that assuming that all configuration settings were correct (they are) the next thing to try would be to apply 12v directly to the pump, and see if that works or not. I did that yesterday, but no sound or vibration from the pump. A further call to Raymarine confirmed that there should be some noise coming from the pump. The chap that I spoke to suggested that perhaps there might be a sticky brush in the motor.

So this morning I directly wired the pump up again (not as straightforward as it sounds, unfortunately - access is tricky), again no noise or vibration - so I whacked it (just by hand, no birmingham screwdrivers involved...) and hey presto the pump sprang into life.

Raymarine are suggesting that I need to swap the pump out for a new one. This is a major pita because (a) it is very hard to get at (b) atf will go everywhere and (c) with no atf in the power steering system the boat cannot be used. I'm obv reluctant to go down this route if I can avoid it.

So, here are the questions
1. is the problem likely to have been solved by my hitting the pump (and presumably freeing the sticky brush, if that was indeed the problem)?
2. can the motor be detached from the hydraulic pump assembly so that just the motor can be replaced, leaving the hydraulics undisturbed and the boat in commission?
3. on the hydraulics side - what do these fittings do? (these were oe, nothing to do with the pump replacement per se)

IMG_0919_zpsnc2wxt8b.jpg
 
snap -last year

you can take the motor off -dismantle and refit bushes -clean up etc without disturbing the hydraulic side .
once off google the motor maker for parts .
if not the" Marine industry " will sell you a complete unit -motor + pump for about you guessed it BOAT "blow another thousand " euros

:o E room looks surgically clean BTW
 
Yes the motor can be detached from the pump and you can easily open to have a look what is going on inside. My motor started behaving exactly like yours and when I opened it I found one of the magnets had cracked and was roaming around occasionally jamming the motor. I bodged a repair that worked the rest of the season then picked up a new motor going cheap on ebay. Has been perfect since.

Mine was a "type 1" motor (there should be a sticker on it) - I tried to source replacement bits to repair it properly but couldnt find a source. Perhaps you will have more joy.

There are two nuts at the back of the motor holding it to the pump housing via long bolts.
 
Last edited:
jimmy_the_builder said:
As part of my winter refit I replaced all the nav electronics on the boat, inc the autopilot. For this I bought the ev100-based package, which includes the the ev100 computer, the p70r controller, the acu100 control unit and a type 0.5 pump. The electrical side of the installation was v straightforward, and although I know absolutely nothing at all about hydraulics, the installation of the pump itself also seemed straightforward enough.

However, since commissioning, the autopilot doesn't work - I always get 'drive stopped' messages. The configuration is correct, and for extra confusion, the 'dockside wizard' seemed to work ok in that the autopilot was able to move the drives from hard over port to hard over starboard without problems. But out at sea, on every occasion except one, the autopilot fails with 'drive stopped'. The one occasion that it did work was (ironically) the other day when I had to limp back into port on one engine after outdrive problems caused by my bushed propellor.

I called Raymarine tech support and they suggested that assuming that all configuration settings were correct (they are) the next thing to try would be to apply 12v directly to the pump, and see if that works or not. I did that yesterday, but no sound or vibration from the pump. A further call to Raymarine confirmed that there should be some noise coming from the pump. The chap that I spoke to suggested that perhaps there might be a sticky brush in the motor.

So this morning I directly wired the pump up again (not as straightforward as it sounds, unfortunately - access is tricky), again no noise or vibration - so I whacked it (just by hand, no birmingham screwdrivers involved...) and hey presto the pump sprang into life.

Raymarine are suggesting that I need to swap the pump out for a new one. This is a major pita because (a) it is very hard to get at (b) atf will go everywhere and (c) with no atf in the power steering system the boat cannot be used. I'm obv reluctant to go down this route if I can avoid it.

So, here are the questions
1. is the problem likely to have been solved by my hitting the pump (and presumably freeing the sticky brush, if that was indeed the problem)?
2. can the motor be detached from the hydraulic pump assembly so that just the motor can be replaced, leaving the hydraulics undisturbed and the boat in commission?
3. on the hydraulics side - what do these fittings do? (these were oe, nothing to do with the pump replacement per se)

IMG_0919_zpsnc2wxt8b.jpg
Click to expand...

Those connections are for 3588044 purging tool, if its new pump then I would change for another new one, I have always fitted isolator valves when installing AP pumps as makes situations like this easier to resolve.
 
Thanks for the replies; it is a type 0.5 pump, new earlier this year.

I get the logic in swapping the entire pump for a new one, but in the absence of isolator valves, that's a very messy and disruptive task. I think I'm going to try and split the motor from the pump and see if there's an obvious fault. Ideally raymarine will let me swap this for a new motor assembly only, but I'll cross that bridge when it comes.
 
Thanks for the replies; it is a type 0.5 pump, new earlier this year.

I get the logic in swapping the entire pump for a new one, but in the absence of isolator valves, that's a very messy and disruptive task. I think I'm going to try and split the motor from the pump and see if there's an obvious fault. Ideally raymarine will let me swap this for a new motor assembly only, but I'll cross that bridge when it comes.
 
jimmy_the_builder said:
Aso I whacked it (just by hand, no birmingham screwdrivers involved...) and hey presto the pump sprang into life.
Click to expand...

Yep - you are good at that
I remember you using that technique on my PC in Tunisia.
Remember - RickP was being "all teckie" and the hard drive wasn't working - until you came along with the solution.
Since then, I use SSDs and the problem hasn't reappeared.

Sorry for the drift.
 
jimmy_the_builder said:
Thanks for the replies; it is a type 0.5 pump, new earlier this year.

I get the logic in swapping the entire pump for a new one, but in the absence of isolator valves, that's a very messy and disruptive task. I think I'm going to try and split the motor from the pump and see if there's an obvious fault. Ideally raymarine will let me swap this for a new motor assembly only, but I'll cross that bridge when it comes.
Click to expand...

I have a new 0.5 pump sitting on my desk at home, there's nothing in the instructions about splitting it and have never tried but am sure it should separate, I will remember to hit it if once fitted it doesn't work !!
 
aquapower said:
I have a new 0.5 pump sitting on my desk at home, there's nothing in the instructions about splitting it and have never tried but am sure it should separate, I will remember to hit it if once fitted it doesn't work !!
Click to expand...

Well, prompted by everyone's replies, I went ahead and split the pump head from the motor. There is a bit of atf leakage from the pump head

IMG_0923_zpstmfjo1th.jpg


Having extracted the motor, I connected it up again, and again it would only work when I tapped it. I then removed the brush housing from the other end of the motor, and you can immediately see the issue

IMG_0928_zpsusqsvtcf.jpg


One of the brushes is stuck - but only just. It just seems to be the extreme proximal end of the brush housing that is slightly pinching the brush. I'm hoping a bit of filing will see this off. (What's French for 'metal file'? :D)
 
jrudge said:
lime en métal

According to Google Translate!
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, and also your text. I also keep a few general files in my toolbag, but nothing small enough for this job. However, Vauban, the hardware store by the port which sells just about everything, had exactly what I needed. I've filed the housing a bit, and the bush seems perfectly free now. I've assembled the motor and tested it, and it appears to be fine. Now comes the tricky bit, which is to mate the motor assembly back to the pump head.
 
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