Raw water seepage from Perkins Sabre 265 heat exchanger

[stuartwineberg]

Got 2 of the above in my Hardy. About 400 hours, 5 years. Both engines have identical symptoms. Small pile of salt crystals in the bilge under the forward edge of the heat exchanger where it joins the end cap and white powder encrusting the joint on the underside. All running fine, temperatures normal.

I'm a bit concerned that both have identical fault. Is this a known"issue" with these engines, does it suggest a major failure is coming up, what do I do to fix it or can I let it go?

Over to the wisdom of the forum

 

[hlb]

Got 2 of the above in my Hardy. About 400 hours, 5 years. Both engines have identical symptoms. Small pile of salt crystals in the bilge under the forward edge of the heat exchanger where it joins the end cap and white powder encrusting the joint on the underside. All running fine, temperatures normal.

I'm a bit concerned that both have identical fault. Is this a known"issue" with these engines, does it suggest a major failure is coming up, what do I do to fix it or can I let it go?

Over to the wisdom of the forum

Sounds like your heat exchangers need relacement, annodes have not been replaced. So knackerered.

 

[MapisM]

Sounds like your heat exchangers need relacement

Blimey Haydn, I know that monday is around the corner, but that's a tad pessimistic, innit?
He says that temperatures are fine, after all...
I have no experience at all on those engines, but based on the description I'd rather think of just a small raw water leakage somewhere.
First thing I'd do is clean up the bilge and the joint, and keep it checked.
Depending on how long it takes to build up the salt deposits again, I wouldn't rule out even leaving it as it is...

 

[Kawasaki]

More than likely you have fairly common situation of the end cap and maybe the body of the exchangers starting to corrode.(electrolysis)
The end cap will probably be made of a copper/brass material
The exchanger an aluminium body.
Usually with an 'O' ring as a seal.
It would be poigniant to remove the caps asap.
The crystals you see are a tell tale that 'rot' has or is beginning to set in.
Remove the caps carefully
If attended to soon enough, maybe new seals and or new caps may save the day.
As long as the area where 'the cap fits' as it were has not corroded too much the exchangers might be saved.

I,ve have done this 'rescue' on 3 types of Ford based Sabres
Not on a Perkins though.

My Volvo heat exchanger recently had to be changed because the rot had set in!
My you, the Lump was 25 years old.
hlb recently had to renew both oil coolers on his Volvo because of the same symptom.
Hence His 'direct'? reply I imagine

 

[aquapower]

Sounds like your heat exchangers need relacement, annodes have not been replaced. So knackerered.

These dont have anodes

 

[longjohnsilver]

Best to whip off the end caps and replace the O rings. Give everything a good clean and smear with a little silicone grease. On my old Mermaids the O rings took on a triangular profile and the spares chap at Mermaid always laughed when asked for the triangular O rings. This should really be on your annual to do list. And don't overtighten the bolts when you put the end caps back on, the O ring is there for a reason.

 

[stuartwineberg]

Hope you're right

Blimey Haydn, I know that monday is around the corner, but that's a tad pessimistic, innit?
He says that temperatures are fine, after all...
I have no experience at all on those engines, but based on the description I'd rather think of just a small raw water leakage somewhere.
First thing I'd do is clean up the bilge and the joint, and keep it checked.
Depending on how long it takes to build up the salt deposits again, I wouldn't rule out even leaving it as it is...

Thanks for that slightly more reassuring reply. Santa bought me a Maplins underwater camera so I took a look at the main bar anode (the only one on the boat - none in the engines) the other week and it had about half left so I hope this isn't the issue.

 

[volvopaul]

Got 2 of the above in my Hardy. About 400 hours, 5 years. Both engines have identical symptoms. Small pile of salt crystals in the bilge under the forward edge of the heat exchanger where it joins the end cap and white powder encrusting the joint on the underside. All running fine, temperatures normal.

I'm a bit concerned that both have identical fault. Is this a known"issue" with these engines, does it suggest a major failure is coming up, what do I do to fix it or can I let it go?

Over to the wisdom of the forum

Hi no major fault occuring, its the reaction of 2 metals together, alloy and brass end caps.

Take them off clean up aply a little grease and fit new o rings, I see it a lot on these heat exchangers.

I look after the engines in miss hardy at lymington if you know the boat.

If your not up to the job and want a quote send me a pm.

I did my apprenticeship on perkins, too many years ago now!!

vp.

 

[stuartwineberg]

Did you receive my PM?

Hi no major fault occuring, its the reaction of 2 metals together, alloy and brass end caps.

Take them off clean up aply a little grease and fit new o rings, I see it a lot on these heat exchangers.

I look after the engines in miss hardy at lymington if you know the boat.

If your not up to the job and want a quote send me a pm.

I did my apprenticeship on perkins, too many years ago now!!

vp.

Paul - I think I sent you a PM but it hasnt appeared in my "sent messages" box - did you get it?

 

[sailorman]

Got 2 of the above in my Hardy. About 400 hours, 5 years. Both engines have identical symptoms. Small pile of salt crystals in the bilge under the forward edge of the heat exchanger where it joins the end cap and white powder encrusting the joint on the underside. All running fine, temperatures normal.

I'm a bit concerned that both have identical fault. Is this a known"issue" with these engines, does it suggest a major failure is coming up, what do I do to fix it or can I let it go?

Over to the wisdom of the forum

End Cap "O " rings need to be replaced.
my Nanni hand book recommends every 400 hrs

Ooooooooo didnt see the other replies

 

[stuartwineberg]

This is what it was

We don't see too many - this is what it really was posts so I thought I would close this one off. Volvopaul and I stripped it down (BTW - another recommendation here for Paul - excellent bloke and doesn't even stop for lunch).

The exchanger end caps are identical at front and rear. At rear you have the raw water pipes. At front you have simple blanking bolts to close the holes. These had vibrated loose and allowed a trickle of seawater to find the lowest point which is the joint between the end cap and the exchanger body - hence the salt build up. New O rings, a bit of a decrudding exercise and a lot of coolant (which needed changing anyway) and we were home

Thanks to all for the thoughts