Raw water pump seal on VP MD2020d

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Is it possible to change the water seal on the raw water pump, on a Volvo Penta MD2020D (2003 model) without removing the complete pump assembly first?
I assume that there is only one -- There is no visible oil leak.
If so - any tips on how please.
Whilst posting--- has anyone found an acid that will clean an exhaust elbow to avoid buying new?
Thanks
 
Is it possible to change the water seal on the raw water pump, on a Volvo Penta MD2020D (2003 model) without removing the complete pump assembly first?
I assume that there is only one -- There is no visible oil leak.
If so - any tips on how please.
Whilst posting--- has anyone found an acid that will clean an exhaust elbow to avoid buying new?
Thanks

It is usually possible to change most of these, there is only a single seal. Technique varies a little, depending on the exact pump, you can either bend a length of stiff wire (old metal coat hanger?) and push the seal out from behind by inserting the wire into the slot/hole in the pump body and twisting it, or a thinner wire (i use a stainless TIG welding rod) with the end bent over and hook the seal out from the front.

Last one i did was on a 2030D (same pump as yours), took less time than it took the owner to boil the kettle and make a cup of tea. As the boat was a few yards from where i keep my boat i took the cup of tea as payment :coffee:
 
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I've had to do this twice on our MD2020D (with a few years in between) - maybe the shaft is getting worn. It's not hard, just remove the front plate and the impeller. I use long-nosed pliers to pull the old seal out - not a good technique if you want it to remain intact.

If it's the Johnson pump then this is the part:

Johnson Pump Seal 05-29-139 for Johnson F35B Pumps

They are cheap so I bought 2 last time with the intention of having one in the bank, which was just as well as the first one didn't seat properly and I wrecked it pulling it out again (c.f. not a good technique...). Maybe next time I should buy 4 - or be more careful.
 
Thanks to you both. I was hoping that would possible. I do have a seal & 2 circlips that i bought as spares when I replaced the shaft some years ago. That had become scored because I had not changed it soon enough. I will take the seal I have as a pattern & get another from the local bearing shop 5 miles from me; because like MikeBZ I may also have some hard luck. (Spanner Monkey :()
 
Thanks to you both. I was hoping that would possible. I do have a seal & 2 circlips that i bought as spares when I replaced the shaft some years ago. That had become scored because I had not changed it soon enough. I will take the seal I have as a pattern & get another from the local bearing shop 5 miles from me; because like MikeBZ I may also have some hard luck. (Spanner Monkey :()

If buying from a bearing shop, make sure the spring in the seal is stainless, or it'll only last a few months.
 
Pretty sure I changed two seals on my Perkins perama raw water pump, exactly the same engine as a MD 2030. simple job, I took the pump apart to check the shaft which was slightly scored. Pretty sure I put two seals in back to back. Bought them at a local seal manufacturers for a fiver, with stainless springs.
 
Pretty sure I changed two seals on my Perkins perama raw water pump, exactly the same engine as a MD 2030. simple job, I took the pump apart to check the shaft which was slightly scored. Pretty sure I put two seals in back to back. Bought them at a local seal manufacturers for a fiver, with stainless springs.

Yes, they have two seals, but the OP only wants to replace the water seal.
 
There is an oil seal and a water pump seal, back to back, with a spacer between. You can change the water pump seal without disturbing the shaft, removing it by the methods described above, but if you need to change the oil seal or the bearings the shaft will have to come out and the overhaul kit bought.
If the shaft has become grooved it can be repaired with a s/s sleeve much more cheaply than replacimg the whole shaft.
If replacing just the water seal, there is also an 'o'-ring required.
 
If replacing just the water seal, there is also an 'o'-ring required.
I thought an "O" ring was required for the pump seating if one removed the pump
. But are you saying that there is another? Where does that go?

If buying from a bearing shop, make sure the spring in the seal is stainless, or it'll only last a few months.
Good point that I might have missed. Thanks.
 
No O-ring required when changing the water seal on the Johnson pump AFAIK.
Changed the seal this afternoon & i confirm that there was no "O" ring & nowhere to install one

Thanks to all those that replied to my original question. it was as easy as Paul Rainbow suggested.
Pulled out with a sharp pair of long nosed pliers & slipped a new one in.
Interestingly the old" Volvo original" spare had a bit of corroded spring & it was certainly not SS. New one ( also Volvo) seemed to be. I have ordered 2 new seals with SS springs in them as it seems sensible.
 
Changed the seal this afternoon & i confirm that there was no "O" ring & nowhere to install one

Thanks to all those that replied to my original question. it was as easy as Paul Rainbow suggested.
Pulled out with a sharp pair of long nosed pliers & slipped a new one in.
Interestingly the old" Volvo original" spare had a bit of corroded spring & it was certainly not SS. New one ( also Volvo) seemed to be. I have ordered 2 new seals with SS springs in them as it seems sensible.
Hi can you please give me the part number for seal with a stainless steel spring or the dimensions of the seal so I can find on the internet thaks
 
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