Raised caulking

[[2574]]

We have a 14yr old teak deck, 12mm planks, about 2mm gone in places. So we have 2mm of caulking proud of the teak. Any guidance on how to deal with the proud caulking? Very sharp blade to cut it flush maybe? I don’t want to leave it proud as I think walking on it as it is will eventually loosen it and pull it out. Grateful for any suggestions/experience?

 

[BabaYaga]

We have a 14yr old teak deck, 12mm planks, about 2mm gone in places. So we have 2mm of caulking proud of the teak. Any guidance on how to deal with the proud caulking? Very sharp blade to cut it flush maybe? I don’t want to leave it proud as I think walking on it as it is will eventually loosen it and pull it out. Grateful for any suggestions/experience?

I use a razor blade (of the type intended for mini planes, etc)
David Combi Razor/Plane: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
put some tape over the ends to act as 'handles', run it slightly bent and at some angle along the seams. Very easy.

 

[burgundyben]

Veritas Flush Plane

Perhaps?

 

[pvb]

I had the same problem on my last boat (Hallberg-Rassy 352). I cut the excess caulking off with a scalpel-type craft knife, held almost flush to the deck, with the blade at about 45 degrees to the caulk. Afterwards, I gave the deck a very gentle sanding with a lightweight DIY belt sander, used very cautiously. The end result was OK and it kept the deck looking good for a few more years.

 

[Laminar Flow]

Use a random orbit sander and 80 - 100 grit paper - that is how it was made flush in the first place when the deck was built.
N.B. expanding, wet planks will also squeeze up the caulking, so be sure this is not the case.

 

[pvb]

Use a random orbit sander and 80 - 100 grit paper - that is how it was made flush in the first place when the deck was built.
N.B. expanding, wet planks will also squeeze up the caulking, so be sure this is not the case.

I'd disagree. When the boat was made, the caulking was levelled after application and the sanding only had to remove a tiny amount of caulk. When the caulk is standing seriously proud of the teak, sanding will only help to loosen the bond between the caulk and the groove, leading to loose caulking and leaks.

 

[Laminar Flow]

I'd disagree. When the boat was made, the caulking was levelled after application and the sanding only had to remove a tiny amount of caulk. When the caulk is standing seriously proud of the teak, sanding will only help to loosen the bond between the caulk and the groove, leading to loose caulking and leaks.

Having layed a few dozen sqare metres of the stuff, I have a fairly good idea how its done. You can run a sharp chisel down the line, once the caulk has set, but that does not change much in the general process. Normally it would be done with a belt sander and at a very slight angle to the seam, but if one is not very experienced it is easy to stuff up the job by gouging the deck. Hence , I suggested a random orbit.

 

[pvb]

Having layed a few dozen sqare metres of the stuff, I have a fairly good idea how its done. You can run a sharp chisel down the line, once the caulk has set, but that does not change much in the general process. Normally it would be done with a belt sander and at a very slight angle to the seam, but if one is not very experienced it is easy to stuff up the job by gouging the deck. Hence , I suggested a random orbit.

Yes, but as I said, a newly-caulked deck only has a smear of caulking to remove. When the wretched stuff is sticking up several millimetres, you need to be much more careful with it, if you want to avoid having to re-caulk the whole lot. That's why I recommended cutting the excess off first with a craft knife, then sanding gently.

 

[david_bagshaw]

I use one of those vibrating knives then sand. It is a good idea to level it off as the high rubber encourages puddles, which causes more erosion of the teak

 

[rogerthebodger]

This is cone of the strip planking with sikaflex before sanding

After sanding with a belt sander 80 grip paper. Some parts I over filled without issue. Jut try to sand along the corking but sometimes its not possible as can be seen

After varnishing

 

[Simi]

Robih I had the same problem earlier in the year get a 30mm wide wood chisel use it upside down make sure it’s very sharp make a good job very easily

 

[[2574]]

Thanks all. Sanding is counter intuitive as it’s a rubbery material - will it sand? Some good ideas here, thanks.

 

[Derek ide]

My HR 34 is 22 years old , Decks never scrubbed so the rubber caulking was raised and I worried that just walking on the deck would pull the caulking out. I am a woodworker and so my choice was an inverted 25mm wood chisel kept very sharp and used at angle to have a slicing action. Cut it off flush with the deck in one cut, do not take two bites at it as it did not work as well. Wetting the blade seemed to help sometimes. Make sure you have a good kneeler. You have to concentrate to get it right, so a small section at a time. I did mine three years ago and there are some places where I think I should repeat the exercise.

 

[upcountry2]

As burgundyben above, 100% thumbs up for the Veritas flush plane, expensive perhaps for what it is but worth it.
takes the guesswork out of the angle needed for a perfect cut.
quick and foolproof, did a full 38 deck in no time at all with no sanding needed after...

 

[johnalison]

My HR 34 is 22 years old , Decks never scrubbed so the rubber caulking was raised and I worried that just walking on the deck would pull the caulking out. I am a woodworker and so my choice was an inverted 25mm wood chisel kept very sharp and used at angle to have a slicing action. Cut it off flush with the deck in one cut, do not take two bites at it as it did not work as well. Wetting the blade seemed to help sometimes. Make sure you have a good kneeler. You have to concentrate to get it right, so a small section at a time. I did mine three years ago and there are some places where I think I should repeat the exercise.

My HR34 is a mere 20 yrs old and I got down to the job last spring. The HR forum suggests using the kind of knife used by carpet people, which I think is called Monkey something or other. I do woodcarving and used a woodcarving gouge. The one I chose was about 3/4” across and nearly but not quite flat. I sharpened it to woodcarving standards, which is very sharp indeed and it made the job relatively easy, though I was grateful for the knee pads. It was possible to shave off the required amount about as fast as I one could push it forward comfortably. The caulking used by HR could not be sanded, but this is not true of all types. I know someone who replaced his cockpit seating and was able to sand off, leaving a neat finish.

 

[rjandhl]

Mozart floor tool is sold by Hallberg Rassy parts. It is widely available.
Mozart Weld Rod Trimming Tool

 

[pvb]

Mozart floor tool is sold by Hallberg Rassy parts. It is widely available.
Mozart Weld Rod Trimming Tool

I wish they'd sold that when I was refurbishing my HR deck!

 

[russ]

I used a battery multi tool. Cuts back flush to the timber with ease.

 

[Laysula]

Vitrex 338170 Hard Cap Gel Kneepads

These will help.