Racor 500FGSS fuel filter

[TonyBuckley]

Hi,

I want to change the filter on my primary fuel filter which is a Racor as I have no idea how long since last change.

What's the appropriate micron value filter I should get?

How would I tell what is currently fitted - would it be stamped somewhere.

Found some instructions and sounds very easy to change. Seen posts saying no engine bleeding required - is that true?

Thx.

 

[wilkinsonsails]

We use 20 and 30 ,blue and red tops.Cindy

 

[noelex]

The micron size will be on the filter itself (and they are a different colour) but not the external housing as the 500 will take all 3 options.

The different micron ratings all have their advocates. 10 micron is the most popular followed by 30 with 2 the least popular.

If you fill the filter up with deisel most engines will start without bleeding, but some stumble a need restarting a couple times others are very sensitive to air and need bleeding.
You should learn how to bleed the engine anyway.

 

[TonyBuckley]

You should learn how to bleed the engine anyway.

I know how to bleed - that's the first thing I picked up on and prob the only thing I could do enroute. But a pain as have to remove cockpit stairs, remove engine casing and lift it (it is heavy) onto the sink area. It makes the difference of a 10 min job to an hour as the lift pump does not lift much per press.

A local chap says don't bother with pouring in clean diesel, just open tank tap and be quick so when full screw the lid on.

I like that the micron identity is colour coded - found that on web now. Think I will go for 20 on a 30hp engine.

Thanks to all for replying.

 

[noelex]

I know how to bleed - that's the first thing I picked up on and prob the only thing I could do enroute. But a pain as have to remove cockpit stairs, remove engine casing and lift it (it is heavy) onto the sink area. It makes the difference of a 10 min job to an hour as the lift pump does not lift much per press.

A lot of boat manufactures don't make routine jobs easy so I have some sympathy, but it it takes an hour to bleed I would make some changes.

An electric, or squeeze, pump can be placed I a convenient location. This will replace activating the lift pump. Maybe a small hatch so you can reach the bleed screw on the secondary filter.
If this is not possible I would fit dual primary filters that can be switched with the flick of a lever. That way with a clogged primary filter can be changed without bleeding.

Even if you can change the primary filter in the marina without bleeding there is no guarantee that with a heeling bouncing boat that some bleeding will not be required.
An hour to do this basic task is too long.

 

[TonyBuckley]

I had the pleasure of changing the filter today and it was a joy.

For others who may stumble on this thread via a search, here's the routine I went through.

1: Turned off fuel at the tank.
2: Unscrewed the top of the filter and removed top (mine was very accessible).
3: Pulled out old filter with the handles.
4: Slotted in the new one (30 micron red).
5: Put lid back on, but not tighten screw.
6: Turned on tank fuel tap.
7: When diesel flows onto the outside of the top, screw up tight.
8: Ease knob on the bottom of the jar and release water (didn't have any) and crud.
9: Retighten knob.

Ran engine for 30 mins with no problem; no bleeding required and I reckon that should be long enough.

Glad I did, the old filter was amazingly black and filthy.

Not often that a boat job is so easy and quick. I know this sounds trivial, but on the old boat, it was an utter pain. The Racor is a good bit of kit!

Tony