Quick windlass running slow

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RJJ

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Hello

New Quick Prince3 windlass was installed a few weeks ago and working fine following total failure of motor and gearbox on the previous one. Last week the 3pin socket for the remote handset broke so I hardwired it directly to the boat.

which worked fine yesterday morning leaving an anchorage. Then when dropping yesterday evening the windlass suddenly ran very slow (about 1/3 speed) and hot. This morning it is still slow both up and down.

just about to check, clean and tighten the motor connections and hopefully rule out any voltage drop there, but is there any other likely cause? Is there any chance my work on the control circuit could have affected the motor circuit?.

another owner suggested I should check the gearbox oil. The manual doesn’t mention windlass oil and I thought it was a sealed unit…any clues welcome.

many thanks indeed.
 
Ok update as follows: connectors are clean and tight. I checked for power and there is 8v across the terminals when the motor is running (up or down). I disconnected the negative so bypassing the motor and there is 14v at the cables. I have also tried it without the gypsy - still very slow.
So it is looking like a the gearbox or the motor, right?
 
I don't know your windlass.

You say the windlass runs slow and hot - what is hot?

If the windlass is new - then it should be under warranty by the installer and manufacturer, Quick. If its new then the gear box and shaft should not be the issue (but always possible). Similarly it should not be the motor. As you have 'modified' the wiring that seems the most likely issue. You do not mention the solenoid - are the cable connections there tight. Have you checked the cable connections at the circuit breaker, again they should be tight.

It is not clear to me exactly what you did with your re-wiring. I am assuming you have no foot switches, nor control at the helm. I'm also assuming the remote controller is on a cable and the socket is at the windlass. If the socket collapsed it may have resulted in the circuit breaker, opening, but then you should have no power - at all. I assume you have a circuit breaker - if not it should be installed.

The obvious move is replace the socket and re-wire as was.

Windlass you should serviced annually - normally check the gear box oil, clean and grease shaft. If you disassemble then have duralac handy and ensure all stainless blots are copiously coated as commonly these bolts are inserted into an aluminium casting. Be warned - most installers have never heard of Duralac and windlass become unserviceable - very quickly. The gearbox is usually at the bottom of the windlass, where the motor is installed, they sometimes have a sight glass. It is common for shafts to seize - due to a lack of service. The Motors have mild steel covers - no wonder they fail. As you windlass is new I'd recommend you coat the motor with some form of grunge - that used to undersea/ cars - 40 years ago Zeibart ? Make sure the fall of the chain is as far from the motor as possible, maybe consider installing a baffle to keep salt water from the chain off the motor.

But sort out immediate issues first.

Jonathan
 
Last edited:
RJJ said:
Ok update as follows: connectors are clean and tight. I checked for power and there is 8v across the terminals when the motor is running (up or down). I disconnected the negative so bypassing the motor and there is 14v at the cables. I have also tried it without the gypsy - still very slow.
So it is looking like a the gearbox or the motor, right?
Click to expand...
8v sounds low. Would think around 10v. Bad contact possibly?
 
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Neeves said:
I don't know your windlass.

You say the windlass runs slow and hot - what is hot?

If the windlass is new - then it should be under warranty by the installer and manufacturer, Quick. If its new then the gear box and shaft should not be the issue (but always possible). Similarly it should not be the motor. As you have 'modified' the wiring that seems the most likely issue. You do not mention the solenoid - are the cable connections there tight. Have you checked the cable connections at the circuit breaker, again they should be tight.

It is not clear to me exactly what you did with your re-wiring. I am assuming you have no foot switches, nor control at the helm. I'm also assuming the remote controller is on a cable and the socket is at the windlass. If the socket collapsed it may have resulted in the circuit breaker, opening, but then you should have no power - at all. I assume you have a circuit breaker - if not it should be installed.

The obvious move is replace the socket and re-wire as was.

Windlass you should serviced annually - normally check the gear box oil, clean and grease shaft. If you disassemble then have duralac handy and ensure all stainless blots are copiously coated as commonly these bolts are inserted into an aluminium casting. Be warned - most installers have never heard of Duralac and windlass become unserviceable - very quickly. The gearbox is usually at the bottom of the windlass, where the motor is installed, they sometimes have a sight glass. It is common for shafts to seize - due to a lack of service. The Motors have mild steel covers - no wonder they fail. As you windlass is new I'd recommend you coat the motor with some form of grunge - that used to undersea/ cars - 40 years ago Zeibart ? Make sure the fall of the chain is as far from the motor as possible, maybe consider installing a baffle to keep salt water from the chain off the motor.

But sort out immediate issues first.

Jonathan
Click to expand...
Thanks for responding.

All connections are tight and there is good current on the motor circuit at the solenoid, and also at the connectors for the motor. 14v at the motor when it is disconnected; 8v when the motor is connected and under load (with engine running).

Yes there is a circuit breaker at the main control panel and it is OK. The damage to the 3 pin socket occurred in handling i.e. no current flowing.

I have removed the chain and gypsy, the windlass still runs slow with just the shaft in place.

Sadly I am coming to the conclusion either the motor or gearbox has failed. Any advance on that....would be welcomed!
 
I think that there must be a binding or extra load on the motor that is causing slow operation high current drain and overheating. I would imagine even with poor power supply (resistance in wiring) that it would run full speed with no load.
With electric motors however there is a failure mode where turns of winding wire in the armature can become shorted causing high current low speed and a lot of arcing at the brushes.
So problem seems to be either in the gearbox or motor itself so definitely a case of return to maker for replacement. No I don't think the controller mods will have any effect you describe. ol'will
 
There should be a manual means to operate the windlass. Commonly this is with a supplied winch handle, and though it might look like a winch handle it might be designed specifically for the windlass (our Maxwell is designed for the windlass and a normal winch handle does not fit). See if you can wind the windlass manually. If its hard, under no load - to me it points to the gear box (or shaft). If it turns easily then it points to the motor. I think all windlass have some form of manual retrieval by winding the chain in - usually its not a convenient method of retrieval - hard work. Deployment is easy - simple release the clutch, gravity does the work. Maybe disconnect the anchor (lash it on first), deploy a couple of metres of chain - if its really hard work to retreive the chain - gear box or shaft. But if its new - both should be fine.

In any event if all the wiring is sound it looks like a 'return' to the installer and, again to me, the issue is between you and the installer - he should take full responsibility and he should recover (whatever) from Quick or the UK distributor for Quick. I am out of touch with UK consumer law.

Again - you have not mentioned 'what gets hot'? No need to run it again - what do you remember?

The motor might get hot if the gearbox (or shaft) is stuffed - but I'd expect the gear box or shaft to be hot as well. If its the motor alone getting hot - then its the motor.

I was going to ask about the plug and socket - as they can disintegrate when hot - but it sounds as if you stood on it :)

Let us know how you get on - knowing where problems lie can help with the next query :)

Jonathan
 
Surely if you have a voltage drop from 14V to 8V when drawing the current required for the windlass that is your issue?
Do you have a dedicated battery in the bow for the windlass? How long is your cable run and what thickness cables? If you reused old cables are they tinned or have they become corroded which will cause voltage drop? What current does the windlass require?
 
Ningaloo said:
Surely if you have a voltage drop from 14V to 8V when drawing the current required for the windlass that is your issue?
Do you have a dedicated battery in the bow for the windlass? How long is your cable run and what thickness cables? If you reused old cables are they tinned or have they become corroded which will cause voltage drop? What current does the windlass require?
Click to expand...
Problem is that OP said the windlass was running fine - and there is an implication of professional installation. However OP also says original windlass seized which implies it was a few years old - and maybe they used the old wiring - but then why would initially run OK, or well.

I'm surprised it runs at all if voltage drops to 8V (which might imply a problem with the battery - and commenting on the windlass might be the wrong focus). We do not know if there is a dedicated windlass battery.

Jonathan
 
As suggested by others, I would check the status of the battery. A defective battery might still indicate a healthy voltage but be incapable of delivering sufficient current.
 
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