Quick fix for loose RIB console?

[Deleted User YDKXO]

This is the control console of my Arimar 3.2m RIB tender. It is fixed to the deck of the RIB with self tapping screws and what looks like Sikaflex. Inevitably, after a couple of season's use, the self tappers let go and I replaced them with a larger size. Those larger self tappers are now also loosening off and the console is once again wobbly. I guess that the proper solution is to either glass the console to the deck or fit some braces around the console to stop it moving but I don't have the time for that right now. My next trip to the boat is in a few days time and we're likely to be using the RIB a lot to ferry 5 large clumsy blokes around so one of them is bound to lean against the console and rip it out completely. So I need a quick fix to last until the end of the season before I get a proper job done over the winter. I was thinking some kind of adhesive but what kind? Any other ideas?

One other thing I need to fix over the winter is the throttle/gear mechanism which has become very stiff when pushing the lever forward but strangely, is still quite smooth when throttling back. Any ideas for fixing/replacing this?

 

[prv]

One final set of even bigger screws?

It should be bolted really, with decent backing pads, but I assume you can't get at the underneath?

Pete

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

One final set of even bigger screws?

It should be bolted really, with decent backing pads, but I assume you can't get at the underneath?

Pete

If it's previously been held with self tappers, does it really need backing pads if bolted? Wouldn't a combination of though-bolts, nylocs, penny washers and sikaflex do the job?

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

The hull is double skinned so I assume that the reason that the console is not through bolted already is that by tightening the bolts, you could easily crush both skins of the hull because there is no spacer between the hulls to support the load? Dunno, thats just my thought

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

The hull is double skinned so I assume that the reason that the console is not through bolted already is that by tightening the bolts, you could easily crush both skins of the hull because there is no spacer between the hulls to support the load? Dunno, thats just my thought

Aha fairy nuff. Sounds like a bit of (winter) grp work is probably the long-term answer; in the meantime, is there any possibly to just use more self-tappers (ie more than previously used)? Would 5200 be a better adhesive than Sikaflex?

 

[MarieK]

Regarding your throttles. Stiffness most likely to be in the steering cables. How old are they? Inevitably they start to tighten up over time.

 

[bigwow]

Use rivitnuts and bolts instead of the self tappers

 

[jrudge]

The strain is caused by the kids noodles. In particular we find green the troublemaker. Change it for blue and all will be fine !

 

[jfm]

I wouldn't use rivits in this application. I'd try 5200 or 292 glue, prepped well, and even bigger self tappers

Ref throttle friction, sorry if eggsuckteaching, but have you backed off the friction adjust screw in the throttle box?

 

[vas]

292 glue

JFM, did you have any success with 292i?
Tried it for fixing skin fittings to the epoxied ply and I'm definitely NOT impressed (to the extend that I'll cut the skin fittings of and possibly epoxy them in place and skip all bleeding sika!

cheers

V.

 

[bigwow]

I wouldn't use rivits in this application.

I agree rivets would not get enough grip in the already weakened area where the self tappers had been which is why I suggested rivetnuts and bolts,

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

I wouldn't use rivits in this application. I'd try 5200 or 292 glue, prepped well, and even bigger self tappers

Ref throttle friction, sorry if eggsuckteaching, but have you backed off the friction adjust screw in the throttle box?

Thanks jfm, yes I have backed off the adjusting screw to minimum. I will try the glue solution. Thanks for other replies

 

[James_Calvert]

http://www.maib.gov.uk/cms_resources.cfm?file=/Abersoch RIB.pdf

Hope you get good advice for your problem. Here's an example of where the manufacturers got it wrong.

 

[neale]

Properly prepared and applied, Sika 292i should provide a structural bond that together with a set of even bigger screws should be enough to permanently fix the console. Sika also do a product called 296, which offers over twice the tensile strength of 292 and nearly four time that of 291i. It is used to bond glazing into hulls, amongst other things, and I think could be used for console bonding given the right prep.

 

[jfm]

I agree rivets would not get enough grip in the already weakened area where the self tappers had been which is why I suggested rivetnuts and bolts,

Sorry, we are at crossed purposes and I think it's my fault re terminology. I agree with you that rivets are no good here. In answering your post, I thought you were referring to those things you squeeze with a setting tool so that they form a metal threaded hole. I called them "rivits" incorrectly and I just googled and I see they are called Rivnuts. As I say, I assumed you were referring to those, and in my post I was saying I do not recommend those for insertion into thin GRP laminate.

My reasons for not recommending them are that they don't have enough surface area on the blind side, plus the GRP laminate gets damaged by the crushing load as the rivnut sets. So you might as well save yourself the (considerable) insertion work/time and just use fat self tappers. Whatever you use it is merely clamping until the glue sets. Just imho of course

 

[jfm]

Properly prepared and applied, Sika 292i should provide a structural bond that together with a set of even bigger screws should be enough to permanently fix the console. Sika also do a product called 296, which offers over twice the tensile strength of 292 and nearly four time that of 291i. It is used to bond glazing into hulls, amongst other things, and I think could be used for console bonding given the right prep.

296 is aimed at bonded glass work and is therefore black only, which will make for a much trickier job in terms of splatter/clean-up/aesthetics

 

[jfm]

JFM, did you have any success with 292i?
Tried it for fixing skin fittings to the epoxied ply and I'm definitely NOT impressed (to the extend that I'll cut the skin fittings of and possibly epoxy them in place and skip all bleeding sika!

cheers

V.

No; I haven't used 292 or 292i in ages. I always use 3M's 5200 and find it very good

In your case I'd be worried epoxy is too rigid, but I'm not sure about that. You have to be happy that epoxy will be happy with vibration plus differential expansion of the materials in question, but I haven't given that much thought

 

[jrudge]

If the hull is double skinned is there a marine equivalent of cavity wall fixings?

Drill a hole, place in the fixing, screw it up and the fixing expands,

This would seem far better than self tappers which seem destined to fall out given that GRP is quite soft and the console will move.

Next, I dont know the shape of what you are trying to fix, but if it has a lip on it, could you put in screws, and then drill a metal plate that goes over the lip which is then itself tapped in - this would give greater fixing.