Questions from a newbie Bav32 owner...

Iain C

Iain C

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So over the weekend I've officially gone from MAB to AWB and all very exciting it is too...if mixed with a little "oh dear what have I done!" I'm now the proud owner of a 2004 Bav 32 and have a few questions. Some of this is on the Bav FB page so apologies of you've seen it before.

1-Red battery change over switch on the starboard saloon berth panel. Switch goes horizontal, vertical, and can also be removed. It’s a bit different to the off-1-2-both switch I am used to. How does it work? In terms of batteries there's one engine battery under the stbd saloon berth, and two big leisure batteries under the port one, which I believe is a factory upgrade. I don't know if this switch forms part of the upgrade but any info gratefully received.

2-Heads operation...the heads inlet seacock is under the sink. Where is the switch to change between the holding tank and straight to sea? And where is the straight to sea outlet seacock?

3-Backstay adjuster...lots of small shackles and points of failure compared to the rest of the rig. Has anyone beefed theirs up at all, or perhaps rigged up a dyneema strop to save the rig if anything falls apart? Only asking as the wire that runs from the transom over the block at the bottom of the backstay broke first time out...no damage fortunately, however as I will be getting a kite at some point I really don't want to be worrying about the whole mast relying on a £3 shackle.

4-Owner’s manual says don’t oil the deck...are there any other views on this as I’d like to give it a bit more protection if possible. I've used some Boracol which is doing a nice job, but just want to give it a bit of a protection without the oil soaking in too much and attacking the glue bonding it to the deck.

5-Is there a wonder chemical for cleaning the leather wheel cover?

6-Deck shower...how does it work? I can see the tap, and a round plug with a shower symbol on, but where is the shower head?

Thanks in advance!
 
The red switch is just an isolator which is in the negative cable for both banks. Not the best thing and I added a BEP marine split charge cluster to my old 37 and just ignored the isolator (left it on). The engine start only does the engine and the house everything else. You should have 2 voltmeters to check state of charge. I added a BM1 when I fitted the switch cluster.

If you have a holding tank it will probably be gravity fed and exit through the outlet. Everything goes through the tank and if you want to retain it, just close the seacock. If you have a Bavaria pumped system (not sure it was used on the 32) you will find a separate tank with a pump and its own outlet.

You can certainly beef up the backstay adjuster by having a stronger tackle. However you will probably find you can bend the mast quite easily. The backstay does little to hold the mast up as you can see from the dainty fittings. Despite that they do not normally give any trouble. Using a kite does not put any extra load on the backstay as the halyard is just above the genoa halyard and stayed by the shrouds. Different from a masthead rig. Very useful information on the Selden site for understanding, setting up and tuning the rig.

Do not put any oil on the deck. Just wash it or clean it with one of the oxalid acid based cleaners such as that made by Wessex Chemicals and then use Boracol to keep mould at bay.

Soap and water for the wheel cover then a polite note to father christmas for a new cover, plus a canvas wheel cover and the new leather will last a long time.

You should find the shower in a recess in the starboard side of the transom. It will have controls for the water and a shower head. Before you use it crawl into the aft compartment and check that the water connections are sound. The shower valve is prone to water freezing because of its exposed location and the hose can get kinks in it.

Hope this helps.
 
Tranona...that's massively helpful, thank you. Some more questions/comments!

Red switch...so in effect it's doing the same "off/1/2/both" in a roundabout way by isolating the batteries? So when sailing, if I isolated the engine battery, that will ensure I can't flatten it. I guess I just need to trace the wiring back as I could not see any markings. And I assume taking the red key all the way out is the equivalent of "off". I only have one "voltmeter" but through switches it does both sets of batteries and also water level.

Tank...I think it is a pumped system as there's a "waste" plug on the deck, presumably for pump out, and what I think is some kind of symbol for holding tank pumping on the switch panel. It also has some additional LEDs next to that switch, which I wonder might be for warning when it is full? I don't think the tank has ever been used...I'm just a bit worried as presumably there must be a standard seacock somewhere but the old owner knew nothing about it!

Thanks for the tip on the rig. The cable went with a bang and I was worried and spent the rest of the weekend motoring around instead of sailing...gutted! In hindsight yeah, you're right, it was unlikely to have all come crashing down. Whats the consensus on perhaps replacing wire with some heavy duty spliced D12 or similar?

Shower...in this shot the tap is in the left recess on the stbd transom...where is the actual shower head itself? Behind a cover on the right recess?

Thanks again!
 
Even gravity release holding tanks have flush-out openers on deck above the tank - I have one and have only ever opened it to see if it was possible. Normally you'd have 4 seacocks in the heads. The WC inlet, the holding tank outlet, the shower drain pump outlet and the sink outlet.

Best to trace through the plumbing anyway but if you shut the outlet seacock and pump a couple of dozen times you should be able to hear the holding tank filling (if it's stainless), then when you open the seacock you will feel the whoosh of what will thankfully be water this time.
 
Iain C said:
Tranona...that's massively helpful, thank you. Some more questions/comments!

Red switch...so in effect it's doing the same "off/1/2/both" in a roundabout way by isolating the batteries? So when sailing, if I isolated the engine battery, that will ensure I can't flatten it. I guess I just need to trace the wiring back as I could not see any markings. And I assume taking the red key all the way out is the equivalent of "off". I only have one "voltmeter" but through switches it does both sets of batteries and also water level.

Tank...I think it is a pumped system as there's a "waste" plug on the deck, presumably for pump out, and what I think is some kind of symbol for holding tank pumping on the switch panel. It also has some additional LEDs next to that switch, which I wonder might be for warning when it is full? I don't think the tank has ever been used...I'm just a bit worried as presumably there must be a standard seacock somewhere but the old owner knew nothing about it!

Thanks for the tip on the rig. The cable went with a bang and I was worried and spent the rest of the weekend motoring around instead of sailing...gutted! In hindsight yeah, you're right, it was unlikely to have all come crashing down. Whats the consensus on perhaps replacing wire with some heavy duty spliced D12 or similar?

Shower...in this shot the tap is in the left recess on the stbd transom...where is the actual shower head itself? Behind a cover on the right recess?

Thanks again!
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Nothing like a 1,2 both. It is just an isolator. You do not have a choice which battery to use. You cannot flatten the engine battery as it is not connected to the house circuits. The switch lcuter I added has a VSR and a parallel switch so a bit more sophisticated although you just switch on the isolators when you are on the boat, and off when you leave.

The holding tank sounds like gravity feed and the warning light might tell you if it is full - they are notoriously unreliable! If you want to hold waste, close the seacock. To empty at sea, open it. To pump out use the fitting on deck for the machine. Very simple.

No real need to replace the wire. It is the correct size and as reliable as any wire!

The shower head should be in the recess. There have been different styles of showers over the years, but all in the same location and with the same access to the back inside the boat. Well worth taking it apart and cleaning as they tend to get very little use so bung up.
 
Tranona said:
The shower head should be in the recess. There have been different styles of showers over the years, but all in the same location and with the same access to the back inside the boat. Well worth taking it apart and cleaning as they tend to get very little use so bung up.
Click to expand...

Ours is probably responsible for more water use than anything else - a few people swimming a few times a day plus acting as the main shower in hot weather (nearby boats permitting - in Croatia it doesn't matter but we found Greek anchorages slightly less keen on vigourously soaping bits in full view - and my singing probably doesn't help either)
 
Sorry Tranona, I might not be explaining myself properly. My main question is, where exactly is the heads seacock you refer to above?

All I can see in the locker under the sink are heads in, sink out, shower out...but no loo out. From what I can see, the holding tank is in the cockpit locker. I've not yet emptied the locker out, but surely the heads out seacock isn't in there is it? I'm in the "underwater seacocks closed unless you are using them...engine one open when under way just in case" camp, and I was a bit surprised that the old owner has never even seen the loo out one. So it must be there somewhere...and been open for years (so the first time I move it I'll make sure I'm on the scrubbing grid I think!) I'd just have expected it to be near the loo, and accessible from within the heads compartment somewhere.

Does that make sense?

Also, where you say "No real need to replace the wire. It is the correct size and as reliable as any wire" what do you mean? I have to replace the existing wire as it has snapped. It broke where it passes over the block on the lower end of the fixed backstay. Wire like that does not like going around small blocks...I've had similar things on dinghy halyard a few times, and was just wondering if D12 might be better as it's more tolerant of blocks and salt...at the expense of UV obviously. Plus you can repair it easily in an emergency. And it's safer if it does go bang under load. Or are you just saying "replace the broken wire, but just use the same size wire again".

Laysula-thanks for the link, will take a look. I'm sure I'm going to absolutely love the boat. She's obviously a lot bigger than my Sabre 27, but handles like a dream under power...not yet sailed her properly due to the backstay incident but I'm sure she'll go very well (has the deep keel option) and will be a fab family boat.
 
Hi Iain

Welcome to another Bavaria owner.

I've got a PDF of the Bav32 owners manual but it doesn't mention a separate holding tank drain cock. The diagram shows 4 seacocks in the WC compartment. Sink out. Shower out. WC flush in. WC flush out. Looks like there's a Y valve to divert WC waste to tank or direct.

I can email you a copy if you PM me your email addy.

So it looks like that's where it would be. I can't imagine that Bavaria would do two different hull drillings for with holding tank / no holding tank. With the changeover set to Tank, the WC waste should run from the WC into the holding tank, then the tank itself uses the WC waste out. Otherwise the waste just goes straight out.
 
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Scala...many thanks, will PM you. I think I have the manual, but it does seem very light on detail...perhaps yours is more comprehensive. However, as I did put the same post up on the FB page, someone has said it's accessible either through a panel in the back of the hanging locker, or through the bottom of the cockpit locker. We shall see but that kinda makes sense!

AWOL-thanks...I believe it was all new in 2011 so I think I should be OK. The adjuster is that horrible 7x19 stuff, not the much bigger 1x19 as all the rest is. Dinghy sailors have been getting rid of that 7x19 stuff for years and replacing with D12 as that 7x19 stuff seems to break very readily and with little warning. However I will take the advice of a professional rigger before deciding.
 
Iain C said:
Scala...many thanks, will PM you. I think I have the manual, but it does seem very light on detail...perhaps yours is more comprehensive. However, as I did put the same post up on the FB page, someone has said it's accessible either through a panel in the back of the hanging locker, or through the bottom of the cockpit locker. We shall see but that kinda makes sense...
Click to expand...

Sadly I think it's as light on detail as it's possible to be, and still be slightly useful! Anyway, email sent with a copy.
 
Iain C said:
Sorry Tranona, I might not be explaining myself properly. My main question is, where exactly is the heads seacock you refer to above?

All I can see in the locker under the sink are heads in, sink out, shower out...but no loo out. From what I can see, the holding tank is in the cockpit locker. I've not yet emptied the locker out, but surely the heads out seacock isn't in there is it? I'm in the "underwater seacocks closed unless you are using them...engine one open when under way just in case" camp, and I was a bit surprised that the old owner has never even seen the loo out one. So it must be there somewhere...and been open for years (so the first time I move it I'll make sure I'm on the scrubbing grid I think!) I'd just have expected it to be near the loo, and accessible from within the heads compartment somewhere.

Does that make sense?

Also, where you say "No real need to replace the wire. It is the correct size and as reliable as any wire" what do you mean? I have to replace the existing wire as it has snapped. It broke where it passes over the block on the lower end of the fixed backstay. Wire like that does not like going around small blocks...I've had similar things on dinghy halyard a few times, and was just wondering if D12 might be better as it's more tolerant of blocks and salt...at the expense of UV obviously. Plus you can repair it easily in an emergency. And it's safer if it does go bang under load. Or are you just saying "replace the broken wire, but just use the same size wire again".

Laysula-thanks for the link, will take a look. I'm sure I'm going to absolutely love the boat. She's obviously a lot bigger than my Sabre 27, but handles like a dream under power...not yet sailed her properly due to the backstay incident but I'm sure she'll go very well (has the deep keel option) and will be a fab family boat.
Click to expand...

I have not come across a holding tank in the locker before. At the time your boat was built holding tanks were optional unlike later models where the standard tank is a gravity type in the toilet compartment itself. Guess you will have to follow the outlet pipe to the tank and then out to find where the seacock is. If it is a gravity tank then it must be fairly high up so you should be able to find the outlet. I thought the handbook had a plumbing diagram showing all the pipe runs - my 2001 37 had from memory. The outlet will be just below the waterline so if you are able to get alongside you may be able to feel where the outlet is from the outside!

Re the backstay. AFAIK breakage of the lower wire is not a common problem, although I guess if the tackle is used frequently there could be wear over the block over time. Can't see any problem using dyneema if you feel more comfortable with it.
 
If you want to protect the teak, use Semco - it's an oil-free polymer sealant that will keep water and stains out without the disadvantages of oil. It is relatively short lived - lasts about a year. You can simply apply another coat next year following a good clean up with a mild soap - we use baby shampoo. You do have to remove it completely every few years - which you can do with a standard two part teak cleaner such as Wests. It's an American product, but UK chandleries like Force 4 now stock it.

P.S. congrats on your new purchase - hope you enjoy her! We take delivery of our Bav Vision the day after tomorrow...
 
Scala said:
We ought to form a sub forum :)
Click to expand...

I'm sure there are Bavaria owner fora - I just have not taken the time to find them yet... We've been getting serious boat withdrawal symptoms - should have received it almost a month ago, but the weather has slowed down the final preparation! :-(
 
My adjustable backstay has been converted from wire to D12 which seems to be ideal where it runs through the various blocks. It adjusts very easily. D12 was also used from the highest block in the tackle up to the top of the mast, which I assumed saved a small amount of weight aloft.
 
Iain C

I have a Bavaria 32, same year.
I can confirm with you that the sea cock for the holding tank is accessed through the small aperture at the bottom of the wet locker in the heads. It’s a bit like decorating your hallway from outside through the letter box.
The sea cock can also be accessed from inside the starboard locker. You need to remove the wooden floor panel over the fuel tank first. It can be seen underneath the holding tank. Bit of a performance as you need to empty the locker first. I always access the sea cock from the wet locker.
There is also a waste cap on the starboard deck for pumping out.
As others have mentioned, all waste from the heads goes into the holding tank before discharge.
On the panel by the chart table there is a red warning light to advise of a full tank. Always seems to work ok on my boat.

On the transom starboard side there are 2 large plastic caps. One contains the shower head. The other has the controls for hot/cold and flow rate. Check inside rear of transom compartment for the shower hose. Occasionally it can get tangled.
The 2 plastic caps on mine were very badly stained so managed to replace them with new ones from Penguin a Engineering on a Hayling Island. They sell lots of other boats bits and bobs. Not expensive either.

Hope this helps

Fenders
 
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