doug748
Well-Known Member
If it helps, I agree with normanS in post 10
>Doesn't it follow that the depth must be around five meters?
No. As I said the length of chain diminishes as the water gets deeper. In 5 metres I use 10 times chain and in 20 meters 3 X chain. Perhaps GHA will tell us what the 3 to 1 scope depth was.
Makes no difference. When the forces are high the chain is off the bottom. Even with a chum hanging off it. And the catinery on it's own has little damping effect.>In that example it takes just 52kg of force on the boat to lift 15m of 11mm chain off the sea floor at a 3 to 1 scope.
You don't say what the depth is so what you have said is meaningless. I've always said the shallower the water is the more chain you need and the amount decreases with deeper depths which the table clearly shows. What I use is depth 5 metres 10 x depth, 10 metres 7 x, 15 metres 5 x, 20 metres 3x.
Depth H Minimum scope N Minimum chain length Lc
4.6 m (15 ft) 5.6:1 26 m (84 ft)
9 m (30 ft) 4.0:1 37 m (120 ft)
18 m (60 ft) 2.9:1 54 m (176 ft)
Nobody has ever posted or sent me a picture of a link from a chain that failed in a real anchoring situation, so I cannot be certain. Fatigue doesn't seem very likely in such a ductile metal as G30 chain. I suspect that the more likely mechanism is overload fracture due to reduction of area. Ready to be proved wrong, though!Vyv - as an afterthought - is the reason for failure not due to the reduction in cross sectional diameter but small irregular pitting causing stress points from which a fatigue crack will propagate? If that is the case then I can see that any significant corrosion presents a risk.
Ouch, you need 200 to 250 metres of chain for that ......
In the example I have quoted so many times, in between 2 and 2.5 metres depth we had 35 metres of 8 mm chain out. In about 30 knots of wind the whole lot was off the bottom and the shank of the anchor was lifting in the gusts. Catenary was contributing zero but my nylon snubber was doubtless taking most of the snatch loading. Cala Volpe, Sardinia. Almost identical situation in Galixhidi, Gulf of Corinth. The water was warm and clear and I dived on the anchor many times to watch what was happening.
One would hardly expect catenary to contribute much in such shallow water.
>Thats exactly my point - the chain is much stronger than needed to take the load because it is over-specified to give a catenary.
I've never known a boat with over-specified chain, chain and anchor size is always determined by the weight of the boat. No one in their right mind would use chain that has lost 10% of it's diameter. It will be stronger than rope but it's not a valid comparison rope doesn't get severe corrosion.
"the effect of catenary is hugely over-estimated" - They are completely wrong, catenary weight is the greatest determinant of a safely anchored boat assuming the anchor is set properly. As said they are selling anchors and most boats can't have an oversized anchor because the bow roller is designed for the weight of the anchor determined as I said above.
On the chain front I would use 4/5mm...
Define 'severe'. In an ideal world the chain would uniformly corrode. In life that doesn't happen, so is it when any part of any link loses 10% of its diameter, even if the original diameter was actually greater than the nominal spec (e.g. 8mm chain with actual diameter of 8.5 mm do you bin it when a the diameter gets to 7.6mm or 7.2mm - all a bit theoretical, isn't it?
Over specced for what? tensile strength or weight (to give that catenary you so desire)? This is precisely what I am asking - do we spec 8mm chain because that is what it needs to withstand the tensile load or because we feel that will give a good catenary whereas in fact 6mm chain (say)would have adequate tensile strength.
I really doubt that they make much more profit on a large anchor than on a small one. It is facile to suggest that the small commercial advantage of selling a slightly bigger anchor is worth the risk of persuading yachtsmen to fit a smaller than necessary chain.
With respect I think you are wrong about catenary. You don't need rocket science to prove it yourself, a first floor window or similar) will do. Stake one end of the chain on the lawn and haul away at the chain through window and see how little effort it takes to lift it off the ground at the stake end.
Anyway, all i wanted to know was - forgetting anything to do with catenary - what size chain I need for a 5 tonne 32ft yacht!!
That bears no relation to an anchored yacht because the window doesn't move back. As the boat moves back the catenary weight increases to a level only a winch can lift. The catenary is as important as the anchor and the objective of the different amounts of chain for different depths is to ensure there is a fair amount of chain (we aim for half) lying on the bottom in the prevailing wind. That covers you for an increase in wind, if it increases even more and the chain near the top stops having a curve then let out more chain until the curve and catenary comes back.
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Well spottedIsn't 8mm chain 1.35kg /metre though, so my 6m @ 4:1 experiment will take 90.6kg based on your 2.01 weight/m or presumably 60kg of force based on 1.35kg/m- stuff all for a 100kg bloke!![]()
Isn't 8mm chain 1.35kg /metre though, so my 6m @ 4:1 experiment will take 90.6kg based on your 2.01 weight/m or presumably 60kg of force based on 1.35kg/m- stuff all for a 100kg bloke!![]()
One of the advantages of ignoring any advise on the advantages of catenary is that anyone could carry the rode one handed!
That's the feeling I'm getting! I'd planned to get maybe 10 meters of 6mm for the dinghy for next year, on the basis that my little danforth needs a horizontal pull...
...but if it won't be horizontal, why bother carrying any excess weight? Although, I'd only anchor the dinghy in light winds when it might make a difference.