Propshaft coupling advice

[Mei Mac]

HI. I'm removing the prop shaft on my recently bought 1976 Carter 35 in order to install new stern gland, cutless bearing etc. I have moved the shaft, coupling and everything else as far back as I can and have around 75mm room between the shaft coupling and the flanges that are on the engine itself.

I can see the end of the prop shaft which is threaded. I can see the prop shaft nut, and a small screw/bolt which I assume goes through the small piece of metal below, that I assume keeps the nut from turning/opening. This was my plan:

1. Remove the small screw/bolt
2. remove metal 'retainer' (for the want of a better term)
3. remove nut from shaft
4. put pressure on the end of the shaft with a small bearing puller to pop it out of the coupling.

My plan so far has come to an end at point 1. I can't get the threaded out. Mainly because of the limited room.

I am considering cutting the of head off the screw/bolt off with a Dremmel (flexible attachment). I assume that the screw goes though the metal 'retainer' and into a threaded hole in the coupling (I can't see why there would be a threaded hole in the 'retainer' itself). If so the metal 'retainer' should simply lift out.

Any magic wands out there that can help? Thanks!

 

[Graham376]

Is there room to use a screwdriver bit in a 1/4" drive socket & ratchet? Worth trying some heat first on the screw, with a mini blowlamp.

I'm not sure how you're going to have room to get full size socket on the nut though without moving the engine.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I would undo the nynuts between the gearbox drive flange and the gearbox case. Looks like 4 of them The setscrews an then be withdrawn towards the prop shaft then the flange on the propshaft side can be slid out giving you more room to get at the lock key/screw and then the shaft nut.

 

[bristoljim]

HI. I'm removing the prop shaft on my recently bought 1976 Carter 35 in order to install new stern gland, cutless bearing etc. I have moved the shaft, coupling and everything else as far back as I can and have around 75mm room between the shaft coupling and the flanges that are on the engine itself.

I can see the end of the prop shaft which is threaded. I can see the prop shaft nut, and a small screw/bolt which I assume goes through the small piece of metal below, that I assume keeps the nut from turning/opening. This was my plan:

1. Remove the small screw/bolt
2. remove metal 'retainer' (for the want of a better term)
3. remove nut from shaft
4. put pressure on the end of the shaft with a small bearing puller to pop it out of the coupling.

My plan so far has come to an end at point 1. I can't get the threaded out. Mainly because of the limited room.

I am considering cutting the of head off the screw/bolt off with a Dremmel (flexible attachment). I assume that the screw goes though the metal 'retainer' and into a threaded hole in the coupling (I can't see why there would be a threaded hole in the 'retainer' itself). If so the metal 'retainer' should simply lift out.

Any magic wands out there that can help? Thanks!

Yes or drill off the head - you may not have room for a standard puller,if not strongback with holes at coupling PCD with spacer between end of shaft & strongback. with two bolts or studding. Strongly advise heat to boss of coupling from the start.Strongback = serious piece of steel - not a bit of tin.
Jim

 

[Mei Mac]

Is there room to use a screwdriver bit in a 1/4" drive socket & ratchet? Worth trying some heat first on the screw, with a mini blowlamp.

I'm not sure how you're going to have room to get full size socket on the nut though without moving the engine.

Hi. Thanks for the advice. I've been able to get a home-made screwdriver head on the screw but can't get enough pressure behind it. It pops out of the slot. I will remove the stuff attached to the engine and I've measured it all up and a socket will just about squeeze in there. It's the screw that bothers me. But I believe bristoljim might have given me the answer on that.

 

[Mei Mac]

Yes or drill off the head - you may not have room for a standard puller,if not strongback with holes at coupling PCD with spacer between end of shaft & strongback. with two bolts or studding. Strongly advise heat to boss of coupling from the start.Strongback = serious piece of steel - not a bit of tin.
Jim

Excellent. Thanks!
I have a standard 4' puller which I'll attempt, but otherwise I'll go for the meaty strongback.

What's the etiquette on the forum here? Shall I post photos of how I got on, in case they're of use to others?

 

[Mei Mac]

I would undo the nynuts between the gearbox drive flange and the gearbox case. Looks like 4 of them The setscrews an then be withdrawn towards the prop shaft then the flange on the propshaft side can be slid out giving you more room to get at the lock key/screw and then the shaft nut.

Thanks. I do intend to remove all the nuts between the gearbox etc. Hopefully that gets me closer to the screw. I was afraid that drilling off the end of the screw was a no-return decision! Thanks for a speedy response.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Excellent. Thanks!
I have a standard 4' puller which I'll attempt, but otherwise I'll go for the meaty strongback.

What's the etiquette on the forum here? Shall I post photos of how I got on, in case they're of use to others?

It's always nice to see how you got on for those who posted any suggestions.

If you take off the gubbings on the gearbox flange you could use the plate you take off as a "strongback" to pull the prop shaft flange off by placing a block of metal between the end of the shaft and the flange with the big setscrews to jack the flang off.

 

[Mei Mac]

I'll certainly do that.

Thanks for the help. I'm giving the boat a complete overhaul so I'm sure I'll back a few times! The boat, 'Ragtime' was actually Dick Carter's personal boat and was used as the mould for the 'Ragtime' series of cruiser/racers.

 

[pvb]

If you take off the gubbings on the gearbox flange you could use the plate you take off as a "strongback" to pull the prop shaft flange off by placing a block of metal between the end of the shaft and the flange with the big setscrews to jack the flang off.

That plate's flexible plastic, isn't it? Looks to me like an R&D 910 flexible coupling.

 

[Mei Mac]

That plate's flexible plastic, isn't it? Looks to me like an R&D 910 flexible coupling.

Yes. You're right. I know a local welder who'll make me a flange/strongback.

 

[rogerthebodger]

That plate's flexible plastic, isn't it? Looks to me like an R&D 910 flexible coupling.

My mistake It looked like rust on it but if must be just mucky rust.

 

[davidej]

If the flange is on a taper on the prop shaft, then I wish you luck.

A different coupling but I couldn't shift the taper even with a 5 ton hydraulic puller plus endless cycles of heating the joint, hitting each side simultaneously with two hammers, etc, etc. And mine was completely rust free!

I ended up sawing the shaft in two. It wasn't such a bad thing as I found severe corrosion on the shaft inside the cutless.

 

[Mei Mac]

I've resigned myself to the fact that I may well have to cut the shaft with an angle grinder and buy a new prop shaft and coupling but I might as well have a go first! I don't mind spending on the most important parts of the boat. I do have a good range of tools and relish a challenge.

As a last resort before cutting it, I suppose I could try and cut the coupling in two and prize it off the shaft. Always an optimist!

 

[chriscallender]

Is it possible to seperate the gearbox from the engine, lift the gearbox and coupling still attached to each other out and work on it in comfort with plenty of space? Its only something like 6 or 8 bolts holding the gearbox on + disconnecting the gear shift linkage, what I don't know is if you'll be able to move the gearbox back far enough to get the front end spline clear of the engine but I suspect you might,

 

[Mei Mac]

Good idea - thanks!

 

[rogerthebodger]

If the prop shaft coupling is an a taper putting the joint under tension and the either shocking the coupling by hitting with opposing hanners of with the application of heat will in 99% cases seperate the two.

 

[Mei Mac]

Let's hope so! Many thanks for the advice.

 

[jim.howes]

HI. I'm removing the prop shaft on my recently bought 1976 Carter 35 in order to install new stern gland, cutless bearing etc. I have moved the shaft, coupling and everything else as far back as I can and have around 75mm room between the shaft coupling and the flanges that are on the engine itself.

I can see the end of the prop shaft which is threaded. I can see the prop shaft nut, and a small screw/bolt which I assume goes through the small piece of metal below, that I assume keeps the nut from turning/opening. This was my plan:

1. Remove the small screw/bolt
2. remove metal 'retainer' (for the want of a better term)
3. remove nut from shaft
4. put pressure on the end of the shaft with a small bearing puller to pop it out of the coupling.

My plan so far has come to an end at point 1. I can't get the threaded out. Mainly because of the limited room.

I am considering cutting the of head off the screw/bolt off with a Dremmel (flexible attachment). I assume that the screw goes though the metal 'retainer' and into a threaded hole in the coupling (I can't see why there would be a threaded hole in the 'retainer' itself). If so the metal 'retainer' should simply lift out.

Any magic wands out there that can help? Thanks!

Hi looking at the condition of the coupling, the rust on the coupling register and the areas where the R&D comes into contact with the coupling face should not be there as there is no air gap in those areas meaning your coupling and R&D have never worked. I might have quite a simple solution for your dilemma though. Go to ASAPs web site and look for a BOBBIN and a SPLIT SHAFT COUPLING. With a little data(length of bobbin and split shaft coupling) and a ruler you could measure the gap you would need to fill if you were to cut (9" angle grinder with cutting disc) the coupling off and replace with said BOBBIN and split SHAFT COUPLING and not overly expensive. SIMPLES. JIM

 

[Mei Mac]

Well spotted (although it's as clear as day now that you mention it!). The R&D hasn't been in contact with the coupling has it? Thanks for the idea of the bobbin and split shaft coupling - I can't afford to shorten the length of the shaft so cutting the coupling off looks like a good option!