jimmyk
Well-Known Member
Hello. Does anyone know where I might buy a prop puller from. Its for a 3 bladed prop. Cheers
Propeller puller
- Thread starter jimmyk
- Start date
earlybird
Well-Known Member
Machine Mart/ Screwfix/ Ebay/Amazon/ Halfords/Local motor factor etc.
Search for gear/ bearing/hub puller.
I've got a Sykes-Pickavant hydraulic, which will deal with almost anything but a bit pricey for occasional use.
If you've a friendly local garage, try them for a one-off use.
Search for gear/ bearing/hub puller.
I've got a Sykes-Pickavant hydraulic, which will deal with almost anything but a bit pricey for occasional use.
If you've a friendly local garage, try them for a one-off use.
Last edited:
jimmyk
Well-Known Member
cheers for that. had a look at srcewfix and will go and get a gear puller
Alan ashore
Well-Known Member
Just a thought - a puller's fine for a solid metal prop stuck on a shaft, but I've been warned off using one on props with integral flexible bushing as it's probably impossible to get the puller claws to bear on the inner bush, and pulling on the prop blades is likely to damage the interstitial bushing. For my Saildrive the Volvo dealer once told me to tap simultaneously using two suitable drifts (large screwdrivers) diametrically opposed and that's always worked well for me, but it is a two person job.
(Classically his grinning first reply to the question "Got any tips for getting a Saildrive prop off?" was "Use plenty of grease when you put it on")
Poignard
Well-Known Member
I couldn't find a good one at a realistic price so I made one. It was very easy to make and works perfectly.
It consists of two mild steel discs, about 4" diameter and 5/16" thick, three lengths of 5/16" studding and some nuts and washers.
The discs have three corresponding 3/8" holes for the studding drilled near their outer edges; arranged 120 degrees apart.
One disc has a slot cut from the outside edge to the centre; the slot is slightly wider than the propshaft diameter (1" on my boat). This disc is slipped over the propshaft ahead of the propeller, the other is placed astern of the propeller placed so that its centre rests on the prop nut (which is loosened a few turns). The discs are connected together by the three pieces of studding and, as the nuts are tightened, the discs are drawn together and propeller is pulled free of the taper on the propshaft.
Apology; This would all be immediately obvious from a photo but I'm afraid I don't have one!
earlybird
Well-Known Member
Tip; if you get a screw type of puller, don't necessarily try to jack off the prop by just by winding on the screw using brute force.
Often best to do up tightly and then give a smart rap with a hammer on the end of the screw.
Often best to do up tightly and then give a smart rap with a hammer on the end of the screw.
Poignard
Well-Known Member
Tip no: 2
Leave the prop nut loosely in place because if you don't the propeller and puller may land on your toes.
Leave the prop nut loosely in place because if you don't the propeller and puller may land on your toes.
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
Or worst still, the puller screw slips off the edge of the shaft and buggers the shaft thread!Tip no: 2
Leave the prop nut loosely in place because if you don't the propeller and puller may land on your toes.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Some propeller bosses are very rounded and a puller with flat jaws tends to slip off. In this case use a big hose clip right around the puller jaws.
jimmyk
Well-Known Member
I was gonna have a go at this tomorrow but might wait now a make myself the puller described by Parsifal.
Topcat47
Well-Known Member
I manage well without one by using a hot air paint stripping gun. If you can't get an electric point near enough to your boat, try one of those gas blowtorches. A dunt with a mallet will help or use a hammer and a baulk of work for a drift.
+1 for leaving the nut on the end of the thread. not just to save your fwwt but to prevent damage if it falls on the ground.
+1 for leaving the nut on the end of the thread. not just to save your fwwt but to prevent damage if it falls on the ground.
ffiill
Well-Known Member
Usual way to free a taper is to hit the shaft hard on the end as its a machine fit-but leave the nut on loose to prevent damage to the thread.
fisherman
Well-Known Member
Here we go again! Hitting the shaft on the end may not be a good idea, the bearings in the gearbox may not like it. My prop is 27in diameter, I always 'ring' it, 20kg deadweight one side, lump hammer the other. Never needs more than three or four doinks.
aslabend
Well-Known Member
pagoda
Well-Known Member
That looks good. I have managed in the past with 3 leg gear pullers, as I have a rope cutter right forward of the prop. The thick disc in the photo would not work very easily on my set up - without lots more dismantling!
Poignard
Well-Known Member
"..... better than a thousand words"! :encouragement:
Elessar
Well-Known Member
my props are a mare to remove. 2" shaft, little clearance behind and a long reach. And VERY tight. The 90odd pound hydraulic puller from machine mart did an excellent job. Configurable for 2 leg or 3 leg pull. (ie 2, 3 or 4 bladed props)
It's on my boat, if you are near Southampton you can borrow it.