prop tube to stuffing box flexible pipe...

BobnLesley

BobnLesley

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Whilst the drive train's apart I thought I'd renew it, but what sort of tube is it and where do you buy it; it's the really heavy (8mm wall) fibre reinforced black rubber(?) stuff, with a 1.5" internal diameter; I'm sure it's expensive, but I don't need much of it.

I also need some new packing cord for the stuffing box as the local engineer advises me that the roll I have is old/stiff/stale, again where is it for sale? The same engineer suggested/advised disconnecting and capping the external greaser and using teflon cord rather than the graphite stuff I've been using; apparently teflon shouldn't be greased? That said a search on YBW indicates that several people had problems 3 or 4 years ago with Teflon/PTFE stuffing material overheating, resulting in re-hauling for replacement; is that still an issue or has the problem been resolved?
 
BobnLesley said:
Whilst the drive train's apart I thought I'd renew it, but what sort of tube is it and where do you buy it; it's the really heavy (8mm wall) fibre reinforced black rubber(?) stuff, with a 1.5" internal diameter; I'm sure it's expensive, but I don't need much of it.

I also need some new packing cord for the stuffing box as the local engineer advises me that the roll I have is old/stiff/stale, again where is it for sale? The same engineer suggested/advised disconnecting and capping the external greaser and using teflon cord rather than the graphite stuff I've been using; apparently teflon shouldn't be greased? That said a search on YBW indicates that several people had problems 3 or 4 years ago with Teflon/PTFE stuffing material overheating, resulting in re-hauling for replacement; is that still an issue or has the problem been resolved?
Click to expand...

Regarding the greaser and gland packing, i would stick with the old type and apply grease regularly via the greaser. The packing should not be clamped down too tight but should allow a slow drip to escape while motoring (one or three drips per second) as this indicates it is not too tight and likely to overheat or wear the shaft. When you leave the boat give the greaser a half turn to force some grease in and plug the drip so there will be no intake of water when you are not there. This cannot be achieved with the greaseless packing.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
ASAP supplies, T Norris, Sillette all supply the hose and packing. Remember the grease is not for the packing, but to stop water from leaking past when the shaft is not turning. You will find advocates of all the main types of packing - plain cord, teflon impregnated and graphite impregnated. They all work.

Probably a good time while you have it apart to consider changing to a drip free seal.
 
Tranona said:
ASAP supplies, T Norris, Sillette all supply the hose and packing. Remember the grease is not for the packing, but to stop water from leaking past when the shaft is not turning. You will find advocates of all the main types of packing - plain cord, teflon impregnated and graphite impregnated. They all work.

Probably a good time while you have it apart to consider changing to a drip free seal.
Click to expand...
The grease is to lube the shaft/packing interface as well. Read and learn.
Ive taken the link out, it had some weird relgious hijack in it.
From someone who was taught all about packing, removing, replacing and lubing as a 16 year old snotty youth in his apprenticeship!
Stu
 
Last edited:
Who probably get it from Portmere Rubber who manufacture Stern Gland tube in-house.

PDF here
Page 33 - sold by the inch
Caer Urfa said:
The stern tube rubber is NOT standard rubber hose or pipe etc as it has a special hardness and thickness ( andusually 3/8" wall), suggest you get it from T Norris http://www.tnorrismarine.co.uk/product/stern-tubes/ make sure you fit the correct stern tube rubber because IF it bursts your in deep shit !!

Mike
Click to expand...
 
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