Prop stuck on shaft

DAKA

DAKA

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My bronze prop is stuck on the stainless shaft.
Only been on 14 months but it is stuck.
Has anyone had this problem and any suggestions on how to get it off ?

Current suggestions have ranged from cut it off and buy a new one to remove shaft.

I only wanted an extra inch of pitch and think I may as well put it back together unless you have any suggestions ?
 
The props on our workboat are always very stubborn the engineer always has to use a puller....a lot of heat but remember to secure the prop with a chain because when it ets go boy it lets go!!
 
Try heating the prop, possibly cooling the shaft at the same time. Boiling water poured over a cloth tied around the prop, and a little persuasion with a hammer, worked for ours. You could also cool the shaft at the same time, but stainless steel has a low expansion coefficient, so that may not make a lot of difference. Usual safety precautions, though.
 
You need a puller. If it's really stuck, hot water will do nowt. You need it really hot. Oxi acetaline?? is the only thing. If you can get the shaft and prop to an engineer place. He'll have it off in no time, else cut it off. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
the bloke at my marina uses a propane blowlamp and a puller. Works a treat and comes off in 3 minutes. Just put some welly into the puller and then apply the heat to the centre. don't stand in front of the prop though...
Actually to stop it flying off put the prop nut back on a couple of turns.
 
Thanks for all your replies, I blinked and the solution was there !
I'm a novice when it comes to shafts, the boat yard has tried a puller but they said they needed a different type. As I don't know anything about shafts or herd of a puller this didn't mean much to me. I may as well buy a puller if I need it every time to get the props off.

My prop is 4 x blade 22 inch x 26 inch pitch, 40 mm shaft. not sure if left or right handed.

Can these pullers be hired or where do you buy them from.

(If I buy one it could do to fit future boats I buy or it will not get used much.)
 
You want a universal puller

43949_N133%20copy.jpg


Loads more here Tool catalogue , but you'll get them at your local tool supply company

You can also get them with hydraulic centre bolts, which apply huge force.
Once you get it nice and tight a lot of heat as other have said and it should come off with a loud bang. Stand well clear and put something under the prop for it to drop onto to avoid damage.
You may be able to get the securing nut on the shaft and still get the puller to bear on the end of the shaft. The nut only needs to be a couple of threads clear of the prop as you're only trying to break the taper.

If you know what you're doing you can use a drift of a softer metal to hit the prop boss at right angles to the shaft. A proper hit will spring the prop off as long as there is enough tension on the puller. Not for agricultural mechanics though. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
You need it really hot. Oxi acetaline?? is the only thing.

Are you sure ? Oxi acetaline is used to cut metal by melting it. A gas blowtorch without the oxygen may be a better option.
 
You don't have to pull the oxy trigger right up, hold it to close, or keep it too still.
Or use a big welding nozzle.

The prop will conduct the heat away quicker than you can heat it, but a gentle touch is needed.
 
Most decent hire centres will have them for hire... if not on the shelf. at another nearby branch.... or ask a friendly engineer.
IMHE a good propane lamp will get it hot enough to remove... take care with oxy-acetylene.
Good luck with it!
 
I like the look of the Hydraulic 10 ton puller.

http://www.tool-catalogue.co.uk/tools.php/cPath/222_59/products_id/991

Has anyone heated the Hydraulic puller ?
If the oil expands under heat will I get a 20 ton pull /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif or £60 worth of scrap /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Will the 3 jaw type fit round a 4 blade prop ?

Just to clarify I do not intend to heat the puller but the heat from the prop will no doubt transfer heat to the puller oil.
 
Try 'ringing'. heavy dead weight one side of the boss, lump hammer the other, two hammers often enough. do not hit end of shaft, you'll knacker the threads. You'll know when you've hit it 'sweet' by the ringing noise.
 
I've been dealing with jobs like this all my life. Never seen an engineer equipped with anything less than oxi asetaline. You can warm it a bit. Like cherry red, or chop it off, if push comes to shove. Studs broken in castings or blocks, all can be sorted. Theres nearly nothing that cant be mended, just need to know the right man for the job. I'm still running 1964 plastic extruding machines that are under hugh pressure and smash eight 15mm bolts for fun. If all else fails. Still get parts made at half price of new ones. (if available) And better material. Oh! quicker as well!!
 
It is unlikley that a puller will work with a four blade props as the the blades on a four blade generally overlap each other.

On a four blade you could use a two legged puller but not a three legged puller if the blades do not overlap.

You can loosen a prop using gas to heat the prop but back off the nut a few turns so the prop does not fly off.

It is worth while for four bladed props having the props drilled and threaded on the boss in two places and having a custom puller made up for future use.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Try 'ringing'. heavy dead weight one side of the boss, lump hammer the other

[/ QUOTE ]

I have seen this work after hours of sweating with pullers oxy acetylene etc.I have allways used 2 identical hammers hitting the boss from opposite sides simultaneously.

On no account try to hammer the prop off the shaft. You tap the prop hub in towards the center of the shaft. Get it right and it magically pops off.
 
You might find a universal 3 arm puller gets in the way of the rudder, I have a prop puller specifically made for the purpose, its only two bits of 1/2 plate with holes in and some big bolts, much kinder to get a puller nice and tight then give it a tap.

No substitute for the right tool and my props on v shallow taper and they grab like hell but always come off.

HTH
 
All the heat would be no good for Harlequin, on the shaft taper there is a 2mm thick nylon sleeve which the props sit on. No idea why.

S.
 
[--word removed--] me, actually agree with everything hlb says, also suggest you leave the prop nut on so it doesn't fly off.
 
Re: To Sumerise.

I thort you'd stopped speeking??

You need a puller, one that fits, a hammer or two might work. You maybe need some heat, a bit wont normally help, so need maybe, lots of heat. You could take the lot off and put it in a big press. Maybe no one has one with room for long shaft. Shafts normaly have a dimple in the end, from when it was in the lathe. Puller has point on end for fitting into it, [--word removed--] if shaft was made other way round!! So put big nut over shaft or puller, so it cant fall off. Never heard of anything shooting for miles, just a big crack and falls off. End of day. Shafts can be made for £150'ish props £350'ish. Having said that, if all else fails, I'd cut the prop off, all things being equall and the shaft not being shagged anyway. Many props have a rubber insert, so course this may be shagged in the process, as would MPups nylon sleeve thingy. But one way ort tother, it is sortable.Just try as little force at a time, and then a bit bigger, but have the gear at hand to do it all at once.
 
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