Prop polish

[jonjo]

In one of his more generous moments the surveyor said the fixed 3 blade propeller appeared serviceable.

It is covered in light surface corrosion and has a greenish colour all over. Without removing the propeller would it be possible/desirable to polish the surface back to a metallic bronze colour?

I think it would take a medium grade emery paper to tackle the surface corrosion or maybe I should use a power tool equipped with a wire brush of the same material?

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[Trevor_swfyc]

I polished my prop rather than use antifoul on it. I used very fine wet & dry then Brasso to get a highly bright finish. Once polished the prop repolishes with only Brasso the following year.

Trevor

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[charles_reed]

Minnesota Mining and manufacturing do what looks like an oversize nylon pan-scourer, used by SS Fabricators to polish the surface.

It is highly effective on bronze propellors.

I would suggest against using wet&dry. Even 1000 grade marks the surface quite badly and requires a lot of polishing out using either fine rubbing compound, Solvol Autosol or Brasso.

Having once polished the prop an annual 10 minute rub with this 3M polishing pad brings it up again for another season.
After about 10 weeks in a Med marina their is some growth, but a good burst (whilst tied up) in reverse and then forward semms to clear it off again.
Buy it from any industrial tool-merchant.

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[Guest]

With respect other opinions, bronze is hard metal and there is no harm in using dry 60 grade to cut down to bare metal. After that, yes, hand drill with rotating wire brush will bring it up.
Clean up from time to time over the season.

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[charles_reed]

We're obviously at cross-purposes here - I'm not referring to removal of metal, but to the difficulties of getting a mirror-finish (because nothing else will do) after removing the corrosion.

I've seen lots of people happily putting their boats back in the water after doing as you propose and then complaining about fouling and claiming that polished props don't remain clean.

I'll reiterate - don't use wet and dry or a wire brush - unless you want to spend an inordinate amount of time burnishing or doing the job wrong.

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[Chris_Robb]

Charles - I'll confirm that using wet and dry caused me hours of additional polishing to get the scour markes out. Gave up in the end and covered it in Lanolin applied wth a blow torch. end of season the prop was as clean as a whistle.

Chris

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[wpsalm]

appeared servicable .... people can get paid and can actually make a living
doing this sort of survey??? wonderfull ....well give the prop a tap with something metal like a small hammer or medium sized shackle, should ring like a bell this test is better done with the prop off... if it goes clunk instead of ting you got a problem .....a few guys around here (carribean) have had their props chrome plated and swear by it ..I,ll try it myself this year ....though it might not suit your location as iys important to give it a wipe every couple weeks....fair winds from w,psalm

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[charles_reed]

Yes that would work well on a fairly porous surface.

Some (especially in the States) swear by zinc&castor oil cream, not just fro props but as a replacement for antifouling.

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[jonjo]

Re: Lanolin & Breastfeeding

Lanolin. Never bought the stuff before and my first internet search lead me to a site on breastfeeding.

Could you suggest where I could buy Lanolin and the type best suited to blow touch application?

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[jonjo]

Thank you for the advice all.

I suspect my prop is a bit too rough and a mirror finish many seasons away. But anyhow from what I have read here I will go to Holland equipped to deal with the job either way and will resort to wet&dry if the polishing approach seems futile.

The cost of weekend round trips to Holland means I might have to forego a perfect finish this year, I hope to get the boat launchable within 2 weeks.

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[Chris_Robb]

Re: Lanolin & Breastfeeding

By it from any chemist. Known also as wool fat, I bought it from lloyds, but they had to order it in a jar the size of a normal grease can, took about a week.

Blow torch - any old gas one will do - doesn't need a ;lot of heat, just enough to melt it over the surface like candle wax.

Do get the prop good and clean first!

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[robp]

Chris - Lanolin (Wool Fat). Interested in doing this myself.
I've been offered Hydrous or AnHydrous (spelling)?
Do you know which you used and how much is needed?
500 grams = £11.54. I presume that would be enough.

Thanks for any info

Rob

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[Chris_Robb]

Think its anhydrous, - its the colour of a very stiff grease. That quantity should be enough.

Incidently its is teh proper lubricant for anything like a shackle or rigging screw that is exposed to the air, as the contents of normal grease evapourates.

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[robp]

Great, thanks for the info Chris

Rob

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[dickh]

Re: Prop polish/Lanolin Suppliers?

Would love to know your supplier for Lanolin - my local chemist just laughed when I asked for some and said he hadn't seen any for years(he is a small local chemist though)...

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I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[Celena]

Re: Prop polish/Lanolin Suppliers?

Try www.baldwins.co.uk; anhydrous lanolin

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[robp]

Re: Prop polish/Lanolin Suppliers?

My offer was from Moss Chemists, Waterlooville, Portsmouth. 023 92 263124, Same or next day delivery.

Celena's mention of Baldwins is interesting but probably not for this weekend.

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[Grehan]

Lanolin

I tried Boots (fairly large branch) and they knew what I was on about, but had sold out.
Passing a weeny local chemist 'round the corner I called in on the off-chance but without much hope. Well, of course they had some . . . !

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[pvb]

You could try...

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.ropestripper.com>Ambassador Marine</A> (those nice people who brought you the Stripper rope cutter) market something called "Henley's Propeller Protector", which is lanolin grease.

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[mica]

A very interesting thread, but would it work on aluminium propellers?

Regards,
Mica

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