Prop nuts / anodes

There is a small stainless allen headed lock screw, which I've removed.

I've applied at least the same force probably more, as on the port side, without success.

I will try a phone call to Broom, it's a early 70s Ocean 37.

thanks.
 
You shouldn't thump props with anything, to remove props it is better to jack them off. drill and tap two threaded holes in rear of prop put longs studs in and then get a steel stiff bar across these with a threaded hole in the centre. Wind up the pusher onto the shaft and you have full control with no chance of damage to blades or the puller slipping. This page shows a nice example at the bottom of the page using a ring, but two holes and a bar works the same, just don't have a picture handy.
021813046.jpg

http://stevedmarineconsulting.com/proper-propeller-removal/
 
There is a small stainless allen headed lock screw, which I've removed.

I've applied at least the same force probably more, as on the port side, without success.

I will try a phone call to Broom, it's a early 70s Ocean 37.

thanks.

best solution yet, there are many Brooms of this class around with Brooms still maintaining them.
 
I spoke to Markwell ltd in Norwich who supplied Broom all the stern gear, they say it should be standard thread unless shafts have been changed. No idea if they have or not.
 
Try with 2 pipe wrenches one on the nut stopping it from undoing and the other on the anode trying to undo it. Try as if its a right hand thread first.

BTW I made a prop puller like this so no need to drill and tap the boss of the prop.

wpp2.jpg
 
Try with 2 pipe wrenches one on the nut stopping it from undoing and the other on the anode trying to undo it. Try as if its a right hand thread first.

I think the nut is embedded in the anode so there's no separate access. In fact, it might be a threaded prop spinner rather than an anode ..... I also have a threaded spinner.

As there is no thread visible it's very difficult to determine which way to turn it. However, I would assume the shafts are original and follow Markwell's advice and would also assume a right-hand/clockwise thread. I would also apply some heat by slowly pouring a kettle of boiling water over the anode before trying again. This might well allow a little movement which should help finally determine the thread direction.

Richard
 
I think the nut is embedded in the anode so there's no separate access. In fact, it might be a threaded prop spinner rather than an anode ..... I also have a threaded spinner.

As there is no thread visible it's very difficult to determine which way to turn it. However, I would assume the shafts are original and follow Markwell's advice and would also assume a right-hand/clockwise thread. I would also apply some heat by slowly pouring a kettle of boiling water over the anode before trying again. This might well allow a little movement which should help finally determine the thread direction.

Richard

Hi Richard

That may be the case but it looked to me and the second pic to have 2 distinct spanner flats not in line so that gave me the idea of 2 separate units. Also with 2 separate units they would act as a friction lock device

The OP should try to separate the nut/spinner already removed to confirm if its one unit or 2.
 
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