prop anitfulding

Very witty indeed !!

I prefer propshield lanolin grease as, for the first time, I have found something that actually works and a big tub lasts a decade .............:)

Are you talking about the product you heat in water to melt, then paint bush it on whilst it is in liquid form?

I tried some but when we reversed out of the marina berth for the first time, shmbo said, 'what's all that pink stuff coming from under the boat'.

I think the whole lot came off!

Dread to think what the prop is like now, boat gets lifted end of December.
 
Must have used it wrongly

Are you talking about the product you heat in water to melt, then paint bush it on whilst it is in liquid form?

I tried some but when we reversed out of the marina berth for the first time, shmbo said, 'what's all that pink stuff coming from under the boat'.

I think the whole lot came off!

Dread to think what the prop is like now, boat gets lifted end of December.

I think you made an error in the application... I just larrup it on with a spoon/stick/ old paint brush etc etc. And then,,, heat with a blow torch (very very gently) It runs together all round the prop and forms a kind of skin around 1/2 a millimetre thick over everything. I use it once a year on a Gori two bladed folding prop and it also lubricates the gears. Top product if applied right, no fouling at all compared to propguard antifoul which lasted about two months before rendering the prop unmovable due to massive weed and barnacle growth ! :)
 
This is some Italian-made specialist prop antifouling that we bought in Greece. I don't remember the name but the interesting thing is that it is on Hammerite primer, to which it has not adhered very well. This photo was taken before pressure washing after around four months in the water. Previously, when polished smooth or coated in lanolin, it would have been heavily coated in Mediterranean coral worm. Compare with the rope cutter and exposed length of shaft that were not treated.

IMG_2766.jpg
 
Anyone know what I did wrong??

As per instructions on the can, I heated the waxy like substance until it melted.

I just dropped the can into boiling water and waited for it to melt.

Using a paint brush, I painted it on the prop. Outside temperature was about 8 degrees.

I didn't remelt the wax on the prop using a blow torch. Is this where it went wrong?

Cliff
 
Anyone know what I did wrong??

As per instructions on the can, I heated the waxy like substance until it melted.

I just dropped the can into boiling water and waited for it to melt, (not the can):p!

Using a paint brush, I painted it on the prop. Outside temperature was about 8 degrees.

I didn't remelt the wax on the prop using a blow torch. Is this where it went wrong?

Cliff
 
This is some Italian-made specialist prop antifouling that we bought in Greece. I don't remember the name but the interesting thing is that it is on Hammerite primer, to which it has not adhered very well. This photo was taken before pressure washing after around four months in the water. Previously, when polished smooth or coated in lanolin, it would have been heavily coated in Mediterranean coral worm. Compare with the rope cutter and exposed length of shaft that were not treated.

IMG_2766.jpg

Your prop looks as if it's got the measles:D
Are the red spots the Hammerite, to which you refer? They look like pitting.
I polish my prop with a wire cup brush, reasonably, and then smear some waterproof grease on it. I've no idea how long it stays on for, but haven't had any bother with growth. Boat comes out every winter.
 
The red is the Hammerite primer. The pattern is very typical of cavitation damage but of course it isn't, it's just that the adhesion between paint and primer is poor. Prop fouling in the Med is a big problem, I normally scrub several times per season.
 
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