Prop AF Treatments - update

Neeves

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I'm not a one fetish person, I have other drives - one of which is AF, including props. We have tried all, or most of the treatments (new ones keep appearing).

Currently the answers appear to be Prop Gold, Speed, Glide or variants and Velox, pending Vyv's results with electro copper coating. Both Velox and Prop Speed, Gold, Glide really rely on movement to keep the prop clean.

Prop Speed's major disadvantage is (was?) that they would only allow appointed applicators to treat ones prop and for some reason costs were horrendous (and you can teach monkeys to apply the product). I know this as in order to test Prop Gold I went through an applicator's induction course and am a certified applicator.

A couple of cautionary notes - Prop Speed is reputed to be possibly carcinogenic and Prop Speed have introduced an acid product for removal (as dust in the air is an issue). This increases costs - but may not meet approval in some yards. Secondly if you apply one of these silicone coatings and then change your mind and want to apply something else (and more conventional) you need to clean and abrade assiduously - as if you leave any silicone on the prop - nothing will stick.

The increased competition appears to have 'forced' a different marketing approach and here, in Oz, you can now buy over the counter (without any applicator training and certification) small applicator kits from both Sea Hawk and Prop Speed. Looking at the Prop Glide brochure it seems their small kit might do 2 or 3 smallish props (buy together with a mate).

I'm not advocating Velox nor one of these silicone coatings - to us they are better than anything else we have tried - but not yet 'perfect' (prop life is less than hull life). I don't know comparative costs. And importantly I don't know if the Oz market reflects what might be happening in Europe - it might be worth checking. I think Prop Gold have sales in Europe, but not necessarily the UK.

I asked International, yesterday, what their recommendation was for props - surprisingly they said speak to Prop Speed, they did not seem to know much about Velox (maybe poor market penetration here).

As with any of these treatments - follow the application instruction religiously as doing it 'your way' might result in poor adhesion. Then keep the prop moving, run the engine as often as possible - at least just for a few minutes. In order to get 2 years life from Velox, to compare with the performance of our hull AF, we beached at one year, lightly abraded and re-coated with Velox (much easier with a cat).

At the 2 year point we will power wash, re-coat with fresh AF (Jotun SeaQuantum Ultra, sadly I do not think allowed in the EC), strip the Velox down to primer for one prop (we have had no issues with the Velox primer) and re-coat with white Velox. The other prop we will be trialling with Prop Glide. We might also run a test panel of Sea Hawk's AFs

Jonathan
 
I asked International, yesterday, what their recommendation was for props - surprisingly they said speak to Prop Speed, they did not seem to know much about Velox (maybe poor market penetration here).

I sand down and spray on a couple of coats of (International) Trilux, which seems to works well. However, one coat of eroding does me for the season, so I am not in a particularly heavy fouling area.
 
From memory Trilux has the same active ingredient as Velox, the latter is 'more' concentrated (or has more of the active ingredient - which, from a distant memory, is zinc based). Trilux also contains a biocide. I don't recall ever seeing an aerosol version of Trilux in Oz (you mention you spray on) and the smallest tin here is 1l at around stg50/l - and would last an owner a lifetime!

Yachts here - the season is 12 months, laying up is unheard of.
 
From memory Trilux has the same active ingredient as Velox, the latter is 'more' concentrated (or has more of the active ingredient - which, from a distant memory, is zinc based). Trilux also contains a biocide. I don't recall ever seeing an aerosol version of Trilux in Oz (you mention you spray on) and the smallest tin here is 1l at around stg50/l - and would last an owner a lifetime!

This is the stuff

0000030592.jpg


which seems to contain copper thiocyanate and zinc oxide. Normal Trilux 33 contains "metal salts of thiocyanic acid", zinc oxide and pyrithione zinc. I usee Trilux 33 on my Drascombe, but since it lives in fresh water there really isn't anything for it to do.
 
The pyrithion rings a bell for Velox. From memory this is a harmless chemical used in the treatment of some forms of dermatitis.

What seems to be clear is that these a/f treatments work well in some areas but not others. Velox, being Italian, works well in the Med where the majority of fouling is tube worm but possibly less so in some parts of UK.
 
Zinc pyrithione is the active ingredient in Head and Shoulders,

Correct! Zinc pyrithione was also present when I used to obtain International AF as was applied to ships and the large white blobs were a good indicator of when I had done enough stirring because at that stage they disappeared.
 
The silicone treatment (Silic One) came off the outer 1/3 of my prop despite being professionally applied using the Hempel kit. As I have said in a previous post, the only thing ever to have stuck to the prop is Hammerite special metals etching primer, recommended by Vyv. Unfortunately, the Velox didn't stick to this!

I would happily copper plate the prop if this would be effective and I could find somewhere that would do it (no access to large vats of CuSO4 and electrolysis apparatus).
 
I too am interested in Vyv's verdict on copper plating. There is a minor fly in that ointment (and not knowing anything about plating thicknesses) I do wonder (if the the concept work) what will be the implication for folding props (that fit together quite neatly).

We once applied Interprotect, on the advice of International, and then overrated with Trilux, it might have been before Trilux 33. We had to use the motors to get home from the yard where we made the application and when I looked at our neatly painted prop I discovered have the coating had gone and all we had wa nice bare metal.

Since then I am very aggressive with pre-treatment and use an 60 mesh abrasive pad on an angle grinder - its so rough it catches the skin of your fingers (nasty). We have had no issues since. Ive never tried Interprotect again but Prop Gold stuck as did, or does, the Velox primer.

Jonathan
 
Velox Plus seems to perform reasonably well for us. We did not use their primer, nor Hammerite, but a cheap (but excellent) generic aluminium etch primer (on a Volvo alu prop). No problems with adhesion.

Here is our prop this July, during in the water scrubbing (good exercise, and free). Two blades have been brushed and one still dirty. What you see is the fouling in warm waters since overcoating two year old Velox with fresh in February.

I'll be blogging about our metal antifouling in more detail in the future.

The silicone one I looked at was many times more expensive and instructions said it'd need recoating after just a year. Didn't sound very attractive to me.

veloxprop2.jpg
 
And a nice clean hull - or did you all wipe it down?

Jonathan

Yup, brushed it all. That's why I Coppercoated - easy to scrub and durable. Takes me about three hours to do the entire hull now, with just a cheap Asda brush and diving mask, no scuba gear. Note, I enjoy swimming and diving a lot - might not be for everyone. A bit of freediving is certainly useful when something is caught under the hull - helped several boats out in the Islas Baleares who lacked this skill.
 
I thought that the blades of the rope cutter were supposed to be behind the prop blades?

Velox Plus seems to perform reasonably well for us. We did not use their primer, nor Hammerite, but a cheap (but excellent) generic aluminium etch primer (on a Volvo alu prop). No problems with adhesion.

Here is our prop this July, during in the water scrubbing (good exercise, and free). Two blades have been brushed and one still dirty. What you see is the fouling in warm waters since overcoating two year old Velox with fresh in February.

I'll be blogging about our metal antifouling in more detail in the future.

The silicone one I looked at was many times more expensive and instructions said it'd need recoating after just a year. Didn't sound very attractive to me.

veloxprop2.jpg
 
That's what I meant. Sorry for the confusion.

Ah, in the other axis! :)

No idea, it came fitted like that and the keyholes are drilled in the propeller boss. Those determine where the cutter blades sit in relation to the prop blades, although it may well be they're the wrong way around (there's two key holes, so the rotating blades could be fitted either way, I think). Never thought about it before. I guess it would very slightly reduce drag if they're in line with the prop blades, not sure about cutting efficiency. Something to look at next haulout I guess.

The problem with having a rope cutter is, you never know if it has saved your ass many times already or if it was completely useless. Unlike a virus scanner, it doesn't give you a triumphant popup dialog reporting that it has just protected you from a nasty tangle of rope that would see you drifting into those sharp rocks right over there. You only find out about that if you don't have a rope cutter. All I know is, we never knowingly picked up any fishing kit with our prop. We have cruised a lot of coastal waters full of poorly marked fishing kit (Portugal and Sardinia stick out) and either we're very lucky or the thing works very well (misaligned blades and all) and doesn't make much noise when it does.
 
Back to Velox, I just can’t get it to stick to either their primer or Hammerite. The Hammerite has stayed 100%, the Velox has all vanished despite very carefully application inside the house.
 
Back to Velox, I just can’t get it to stick to either their primer or Hammerite. The Hammerite has stayed 100%, the Velox has all vanished despite very carefully application inside the house.

Have you tried abrading the Hammerite? The primer on my prop is original, applied something like 6 years ago. Each spring I rub down the Velox to the primer with 180 grit and paint on new Velox. Never had an adhesion problem.
 
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