Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
Wow. But will it link with the chart plotter.
Well it does need warning that it has reached The Tropics in order to go to Turbo Mode.
Programmable fridge...... how can anyone live without one!!
- Thread starter GHA
- Start date
Well it does need warning that it has reached The Tropics in order to go to Turbo Mode.
GHA
Well-Known Member
I've just taken the 2 surface mount sense resistors off one of the other boards and soldered them on top of the ones on the main board so now it's 4 * 0.12Ohm in parallel , or around 0.03Ohm which seems OK
Seems to have worked, initially with the same calibration constant the current reading pretty much halved, so doubled the calibration and it seems OK on the 2 runs on the right , last short run was at highest revs so looks like about 6A max. I'd be temped if ordering again to make the sense resistance even lower, the INA chip has a high quality amplifier built in so can get accurate current readings from a very low voltage drop.
Might be easier searching for the components on the jlcpcb page instead of easyeda then copy the part number and search to that in the easyeda library >
PCB Prototype & PCB Fabrication Manufacturer - JLCPCB
These are the ones I used > PCB Prototype & PCB Fabrication Manufacturer - JLCPCB
Thinking now that the control could just be one transistor connected to the ESP deducated DAC pin, I assumed from the info online that there just 4 different revs available but suspect that's assumptions for you
Will have a play.
vas
Well-Known Member
if you check the Danfoss literature you'll realise that you can fit 2 resistors between different wires of the el.box in order to alter comp speed and also cut-off voltage.
Cannot really remove the el.box, fridge wont run fullstop.
Cannot really remove the el.box, fridge wont run fullstop.
vas
Well-Known Member
greg, at the side of the compressor there's going to be a box approx 80X100X40mm with a series of spade terminals. may be covered with a plastic or metal casing but on top of the + - Vin terminals (the two topmost) there's going to be a stamped model #, search Danfoss for that and you'll come up with all the details.
The above assumes that your isotherm does indeed use a Danfos BD35 (or 50?) compressor, ignore else!
The above assumes that your isotherm does indeed use a Danfos BD35 (or 50?) compressor, ignore else!
Stemar
Well-Known Member
A cold rosé is a more than acceptable substitute.
All this raspberry pie stuff goes way over my head. The best thing I ever did with raspberries was when I came across several boxes that had been dumped as too ripe at a wholesaler. The wine I made was delicious. Think Port, but raspberry flavoured
GHA
Well-Known Member
Just did a quick schematic >
The compressor EU controller measures the current going through the thermostat and will alter the compressor revs based on that reading, at the moment I've 3 transistors on the circuit board with resistors in series but thinking now it might be better just to have one transistor right next to the EU controller and use that so hopefully the current is less with no drop along the cable. Just tried croc clipping across the thermostat lugs with a short lead and the power goes down so it is possible to run it slower than the new board can achieve.
That will be todays playtime between the countless other jobs on the list
GHA
Well-Known Member
Also this link was stashed in the evernote fridge tags from previous research>
https://www.go2marine.com/Product-G..._Guardian_and_Merlin_v2_with_pics_7.25.11.pdf
Hmm, maybe.. Efficiency can be tested & ramping up the speed sounds like why not, might help.
Thoughts?
https://www.go2marine.com/Product-G..._Guardian_and_Merlin_v2_with_pics_7.25.11.pdf
Hmm, maybe.. Efficiency can be tested & ramping up the speed sounds like why not, might help.
Thoughts?
RupertW
Well-Known Member
And how do you heat the water for the shower? That was my arcane project last year - I can’t think of one this year yet, but I haven’t been able to get to the boat for 10 months so I suspect there will be lots of fixing jobs to do instead.
GHA
Well-Known Member
For those born inquisitive >>
Transistor looks like it works OK but seems like there might actually just be a few distinct revs available as the current in the thermostat changes need to have a better look at it, just over 2mA the compressor stops, and thermostat current never goes above about 5mA . Also seems like it ramps up or down over a few seconds when the thermostat current changes. In between we get this >>
Neeves
Well-Known Member
We use a domestic, on demand, gas boiler, Bosch, vented into the cockpit. Plumbed into the fresh water supply. It might be a more difficult installation in a monohull. Our saloon and cockpit sole are at the same level and the boiler sits just inside the French doors against the cockpit/saloon bulkhead - it simply vents through the bulkhead with a cowl. It runs off a conventional pilot light but we only have the pilot light on when we need the hot water. Its been perfectly satisfactory for 20 years, or so. It has a separate gas isolation 'tap', the other run of gas pipework also tapped, supplies the galley. The boiler sits in an aluminium box and the whole lot inside the moulding for the saloon.
Jonathan
apologies to GHA for the slight drift from refrigeration to hot water.....!
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RupertW
Well-Known Member
Better than our mains element or use of the engine for 20 minutes but not nearly arcane enough as it uses gas which can be very hard to get. Spare solar energy now does the job.
vas
Well-Known Member
Neeves, curious, what's the consumption like? you obviously don't have the 3lt small bottles I carry for hob/oven...
Rupert, I'm on the same line, bought a 40lt (or 60 don't remember) boiler (engine/1850W element), struggling to fit it somewhere I like atm, but plan is to use excess solar in early afternoon to heat some water
Rupert, I'm on the same line, bought a 40lt (or 60 don't remember) boiler (engine/1850W element), struggling to fit it somewhere I like atm, but plan is to use excess solar in early afternoon to heat some water
RupertW
Well-Known Member
It works well and doubled our solar output from about 1kw to 2. The main thing to ensure is that you get to absorbtion by lunchtime without water heating. If you don’t then you may not have enough spare solar to do the job.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
We use 8kg bottles and for 3 months carry 2. I confess we don't know what consumption is but it cannot be much as the 2 x 8kg last 3 months. 2 x showers per day each, cooking for 3 months for 2 - and we are not camping!
WE like the boiler for I think the reasons implied - you don't need to run the engine (which would be daft when you are sailing fast enough to power the cat with a towed hydro gen) or if you are at anchor and have plenty of solar power.
You mention 'spare solar' - what does this mean, or what are the implications
Jonathan
Topcat47
Well-Known Member
I manage very well without a fridge at all. Beer and Wine keep cool in the bilges. Tinned food doesn't need refrigeration and there's always powdered milk for when the bottled cow goes manky.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
You can still buy powdered eggs (and long life milk), butter in tins (salted only), grow your own bean sprouts, catch fresh fish, mussels, oysters, crayfish, bake fresh bread, make yogurt from packs (EasiYo) and, some, fruit keeps well as do some veg. I prefer a decent whisky at room temperature - but it is nice to have ice in the gin at the end of a hot day sailing (so we do have a fridge - but its not really big enough for 3 months).
Jonathan
D
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Replying on behalf of GHA. He sent me a WhatsApp message asking me to post this as a reply to #23
