Problem with Volvo Penta 2002 ignition circuit?

[mikeymariner]

My 18hp Volvo Penta diesel engine has a "standard" ignition control panel (push button start/rev counter/oil pressure and temperature alarms). The engine starts OK but after it has been running for some time (anything from 10-60mins) the rev counter stops working. The engine still runs at a steady speed but if I switch the engine off and try to start it again no electrical power appears to be in the starter circuit (no buzzing from the audible alarm and nothing happens when I press the starter button). If I leave it switched off for several hours it seems to sort itself out and starts up again ok! Any ideas on what I need to do to keep the rev counter and starter button working? Mikeymariner.

 

[DaveS]

My 18hp Volvo Penta diesel engine has a "standard" ignition control panel (push button start/rev counter/oil pressure and temperature alarms). The engine starts OK but after it has been running for some time (anything from 10-60mins) the rev counter stops working. The engine still runs at a steady speed but if I switch the engine off and try to start it again no electrical power appears to be in the starter circuit (no buzzing from the audible alarm and nothing happens when I press the starter button). If I leave it switched off for several hours it seems to sort itself out and starts up again ok! Any ideas on what I need to do to keep the rev counter and starter button working? Mikeymariner.

It sounds like poor connections. There are a number of possibilities. I would start by checking the connection from battery negative to the engine frame, then work along the positive wires. Another suspect is the multi way plug and socket on the wiring harness.

 

[mikeymariner]

Thanks DaveS for your suggestions. I think I've identified the problem as being with the connection of the wire that leads from the fuse box to the wiring loom and to the starter button. Every time the rev counter drops out, if I "wiggle" this wire where it connects to the fuse box, the rev counter starts up again. mikeymariner

 

[Appleyard]

The fuse "box" is notorious for poor connection .there seems to be an inherent fault inside ,and you can't open it up to sort it out. It always seems to work if you wiggle it,but will fail again. I don't think that it was a good idea to mount it on the engine,as the vibration will eventually cause problems.
Best idea is to bypass it completely using an in line fuse . Keep a few spares.

 

[mikeymariner]

Thanks "jamesmar". A trip to local chandlery for some in line fuses seems to be the order of the day. mikeymariner

 

[VicS]

Or Halfords or Maplin even

 

[Bilgediver]

The fuse "box" is notorious for poor connection .there seems to be an inherent fault inside ,and you can't open it up to sort it out. It always seems to work if you wiggle it,but will fail again. I don't think that it was a good idea to mount it on the engine,as the vibration will eventually cause problems.
Best idea is to bypass it completely using an in line fuse . Keep a few spares.

Mismatch of materials between spades and wire terminals. Can be alleviated to an extent by cleaning and using copperslip grease on the spades but best solution is to replace with a 4x fuse holder with screw clamp terminals as sold in many chandleries. Wiggling is a short term solution and new crimp terminals might last a season or two

 

[simonjconnor]

I have the same problem with my Penta 2002, I changed the fusebox, changed the connectors, and after a few years facing the same problem of having to wiggle the wire to get the engine started.

I will move to an inline fuse solution too. Quick question - what Amp fuse is needed ?

I've not yet got under the relay area to look at the wire from the wiring loom to the fusebox. Is it possible to replace the wire also ?

 

[VicS]

I have the same problem with my Penta 2002, I changed the fusebox, changed the connectors, and after a few years facing the same problem of having to wiggle the wire to get the engine started.

I will move to an inline fuse solution too. Quick question - what Amp fuse is needed ?

I've not yet got under the relay area to look at the wire from the wiring loom to the fusebox. Is it possible to replace the wire also ?

The existing fuses may be 15 amps but If you look at the wiring diagram in your owner's manual I think you will find that some of the wiring in the control panel is only 1.0 mm² . I'd therefore suggest 10 amps

Consider using a blade fuse holder rather than a glass fuse holder

See 12 volt planet

and Furneaux Riddall

 

[simonjconnor]

Many thanks for your advice

 

[MrGorsky]

The existing fuses may be 15 amps but If you look at the wiring diagram in your owner's manual I think you will find that some of the wiring in the control panel is only 1.0 mm² . I'd therefore suggest 10 amps

I'd agree. The Volvo manual states the maximum panel output to be 5 amps, so I'd say a 10 amp fuse would be more than sufficiant.

 

[Stemar]

I replaced the fuse holder on my 2003 with one of these

End of problem.