Problem with Volvo DP290 leg

[potsy]

We noticed last Sunday tthat when we tried to engage reverse the leg jumped around quite violently but forward slipped in a treat. Thought it may have been cable adjustments but this didn't work. Took the cable off and engaged the leg by hand and sometimes it engaged but most of the time it jumped around and wouldn't properly engage.
Left it a few days to mull it over.
We've since found it wouldn't engage with leg right down but if we tilt the leg up 10 degrees or so she slipped in a treat. Then next time we tried she wouldn't go in. TEMPREMENTAL.
Engineer came for a look on Friday and as always happens when the engineer is present she worked perfectly! Saturday she was **** again, when we realised she had lost a lot of oil which had only just been topped up! Also we saw first signs of dipstick getting creamy so oils going out and water getting in somewhere? We've recently had props off to change anode so could this be related? Getting lifted out on Monday £££ss but any help in where to start looking would be much appreciated.

 

[Col]

Early 290's had reversing latches to hold leg down in reverse. Sounds like this may be the case. Check the springs are all there (3 normal & 1 circular) Check the hooks aren't worn and that the mechanism moves freely. the leg would try and climb out of the water in reverse. Is this what you mean by jumping around?
Your oil leak wouldn't be related to this and would need seperate investigation.

 

[potsy]

I know what you mean about the leg kicking up when in reverse but this is more of a clunking and shaking, similar to the clunk you may get as reverse engages normally, but clunk clunk clunk clunk etc. etc. over and over and although the props were pulling us astern it was only slowly as if not properly in gear. Hope this is making sense!

 

[Targa37]

The problem is the reverse latches.
J.A.Dunn.

 

[spannerman]

Sounds like you need to replace the inner and outer propshaft seals (these usually get damaged by fishing line or sea grass) and the shift quadrant seal and associated O rings, also replace all drain/filler plug O rings and the red paper gasket under the plug just above and to the right of the shift quadrant housing on the rear of the drive, then you have covered all the bases, followed by a pressure test before refilling. A good engineer should do this comfortably in 2 hrs including rinsing out the drive with diesel or similar to get rid of the contaminated oil.

 

[petem]

Whilst "Targa37" is obviously a man of great taste, he obviously hadn't noticed that he was responding to a 4 year old thread! One hopes the OP has fixed his leg by now.