Princess 35 flybridge 1988 Hull anodes

Marty87

Marty87

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Hey guys my boat is currently in the water and will be coming out soon and buying all the maintenance materials just now does anyone know the Dimensions of the two zinc hull anodes.

Thanks In advance.
 
I wouldn't rely on another owners measurements. Boats are a bit more custom made and would have been fitted with whatever anodes the builder was buying in at the time. They may also have been changed since new. Can you get at the bolts inside the boat and measure the distance between them. That should give you enough to go on to buy some suitable replacements.
 
If they are at all like the usual found on these boats. They are just the standard sizes that the bolt pattern size dictates. When first doing our P385 long ago, I measured the bolt hole distance then went into eBay and found the seller usually tells you the size between bolts in the description.
Jusy need to go easy when un doing the nuts and try not to disturb the inserts inside the hull. Have someone inside keeping an eye on things. Oh and make sure the connecting wiring between the gear they protect is all in good shape. A quick continuity check with a meter will prove this. We have found this a problem on a couple of occasions, caused by corroded crimping connections. Mainly around the stern gear steering connections at the top of the rudders. Yours may be similar. We had to replace the adjoining wiring eventually.
 
The 2 hull anodes, about 4Kilos ? , around £30.00 each direct from smelter.
You will pay a lot more if you want it in fancy packet.
You may well have a couple of zinc ring anodes on the trim tabs and possibly a couple zinc shaft anodes.
Good idea to check internal grounding wiring in the bilges is OK, can become a fuzzy green mess.
Sometimes the ring terminals break away from wiring.Simple to visually check by lifting floor of lazerette.Mine is hinged and all junk needed removal before access.:(
While you are at it check the ground wiring to rudder stocks, this frequently breaks away due to movement of rudders.
May be better to reconnect by soldering / than try to undo massive rudder steering arm bolt and fitting new ring terminal.



https://invicta-anodesltd.co.uk/index.html
 
Thanks guys for your input I’m planing to renew hull through bolts and cut back wiring and renew ring connectors.
I had a ruff idea they would be 4kg thanks again.

Regards
Marty
 
Marty87 said:
Thanks guys for your input I’m planing to renew hull through bolts and cut back wiring and renew ring connectors.
I had a ruff idea they would be 4kg thanks again.

Marty
Click to expand...

Anode securing nuts and bolts on my 1991 P35 very good quality stainless steel, be very surprised indeed if yours need replacing.
Nuts both inside and outside hull came undone with ease revealing threading underneath to be immaculate and as new..
Did not even need to put spanner on internal nuts to stop them turning and coming loose.
Nipped up external nuts only sufficently to stop new anode from detaching
 
Last edited:
oldgit said:
Anode securing nuts and bolts on my 1991 P35 very good quality stainless steel, be very surprised indeed if yours need replacing.
Nuts both inside and outside hull came undone with ease revealing threading underneath to be immaculate and as new..
Did not even need to put spanner on internal nuts to stop them turning and coming loose.
Nipped up external nuts only sufficently to stop new anode from detaching
Click to expand...

If they are really are stainless, more common to find galvanised, did you withdraw them and check the thread that goes through the hull. Crevice corrosion here would be a likely problem.
 
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