Power draw and inverters

[Daverw]

My 750w microwave (with turntable) shows it uses 1500w according to the smart meter.

We are just under at 1350w but does give the 1600w inverter a bit more headroom

 

[geem]

D

My guess is the Sterling will only run 1600w continuously for about 10 minutes and then get too hot. Most air fryers are 1460 w or bigger so really too big for what you have. My 800w microwave draws around 100A at 13.5v continuously in use so clearly input power is much higher than the rated power.

Bear in mind with all this you will need to check the fusing and wires from battery to inverter as most I have seen are woefully undersized for continuous high load like cooking. Really good clean connections too. I live full time on an all electric galley boat so use induction hobs, air fryers , microwaves etc every day. I have a 3kw inverter with 120mm cable to it, 300a fuses in a 500a rated holder, a 650a cut off switch and I upgraded all the AC wires out to 32A rating rather than the normal 16A stuff. It all works great but these are all big loads so don't skimp on the safety side and check on wire temperatures and so on as you first use it

Do you routinely run your inverter at 3000w? At 220v you are only pulling 13A fully loaded, so why did you feel the need to increase cable sizes to 32A.

 

[Trident]

D
Do you routinely run your inverter at 3000w? At 220v you are only pulling 13A fully loaded, so why did you feel the need to increase cable sizes to 32A.

Its quite a long cable run from one side to the other and on the same "ring" are the air fryer, induction hob, toaster, coffee maker etc and I allowed that I may need to move up to a 5kw and that guests may turn everything on at once and it seemed prudent for the sake of a couple of hours and £20 of cable