Potential cost of Maintenance & Repairs

[UK-WOOZY]

had a new prop shaft, propeller, cutlass bearing coupler and anodes replaced on my boat last year at chatham marina, total was approx £1000 (free lift due to otium points i had), i had another lift out this year at gillingham marina as my pivot mechanism came off the lift keel, new pins made and lift out and me doing the work came to about £400
so many sailing youtubers now who get free things and funds, i struggle at the end of the month every month with an 8-5 job with no youtube channel of my own as i dont have the time to film my boat ownership woes

 

[fisherman]

B.O.A.T.
Break out another thousand.

 

[lustyd]

The shaft and anode bit was interesting. The cheap anode broke because it did not have a stainless liner like proper ones do and he was putting it in the wrong place, too far away from the prop it is supposed to be protecting.

The prop anode will usually protect the prop, the shaft anode protects the shaft and engine and must be far enough forward not to block the cutless from getting water, ideally half way between cutless and hull so water can also enter and lubricate/cool the shaft seal.
His prop seems an appropriate distance from the cutless which needs water for lubrication and cooling.

 

[Tranona]

The prop anode will usually protect the prop, the shaft anode protects the shaft and engine and must be far enough forward not to block the cutless from getting water, ideally half way between cutless and hull so water can also enter and lubricate/cool the shaft seal.
His prop seems an appropriate distance from the cutless which needs water for lubrication and cooling.

Sorry, you seem to have no understanding of galvanic action and the use of anodes. Neither the engine nor the shaft need any protection - they are the higher potential half. The propeller needs the protection because it contains zinc in the alloy which is anodic. The anode is zinc (or aluminium of similar potential) which will waste instead of the zinc in the propeller. Ideally the anode should be on the propeller itself, as it often is on folding or feathering propellers, and sometimes on fixed blade propellers as that is closest and provides the best electrical contact. However this is often impractical and an anode on the shaft if there is enough exposed as in a P bracket system is the next best as it provides a good electrical contact, but not quite as close. The ideal location is 25mm forward of the P bracket to allow water to flow through the cutless.

Just for completeness if there is no exposed shaft for a shaft anode as with conventional stern gear a hull anode can be used. In this case there needs to be electrical continuity between the anode and the propeller. Commonly this is achieved by bonding the anode to the engine/gearbox so the shaft can act as the connection. Usually to maintain this continuity there needs also to be a bridge across any flexible coupling.

You could not be more wrong about the overhang of shaft aft of the P bracket. Anywhere you look about installing shafts and propellers will tell you the optimum distance between the bearing housing (P bracket in this case) is 10-15mm on shafts of this size. This again allows flow of water through the bearing and enough for fore and aft movement as gears are engaged which can be as much as +/-6mm. Sometime this distance is increased, for example if a rope cutter is fitted. This
Ambassador Marine Gives the dimensions in detail.

The shaft in the video looks about 35mm or 1 3/8". The rule of thumb for unsupported overhang is 1.5* shaft diameter so just over 50mm. Look again at the video and then you will understand why I queried it. I did also suggest that the shaft had been made overlong so that a larger propeller could be fitted and still maintain good tip clearance, but there is not a clear image of the propeller and hull to determine if this is so. Whatever the reason that is an awful installation and will almost certainly lead to vibration and short cutless life.

I hope that is all clear now, but happy to answer any questions you have.

 

[Wansworth]

Sorry, you seem to have no understanding of galvanic action and the use of anodes. Neither the engine nor the shaft need any protection - they are the higher potential half. The propeller needs the protection because it contains zinc in the alloy which is anodic. The anode is zinc (or aluminium of similar potential) which will waste instead of the zinc in the propeller. Ideally the anode should be on the propeller itself, as it often is on folding or feathering propellers, and sometimes on fixed blade propellers as that is closest and provides the best electrical contact. However this is often impractical and an anode on the shaft if there is enough exposed as in a P bracket system is the next best as it provides a good electrical contact, but not quite as close. The ideal location is 25mm forward of the P bracket to allow water to flow through the cutless.

Just for completeness if there is no exposed shaft for a shaft anode as with conventional stern gear a hull anode can be used. In this case there needs to be electrical continuity between the anode and the propeller. Commonly this is achieved by bonding the anode to the engine/gearbox so the shaft can act as the connection. Usually to maintain this continuity there needs also to be a bridge across any flexible coupling.

You could not be more wrong about the overhang of shaft aft of the P bracket. Anywhere you look about installing shafts and propellers will tell you the optimum distance between the bearing housing (P bracket in this case) is 10-15mm on shafts of this size. This again allows flow of water through the bearing and enough for fore and aft movement as gears are engaged which can be as much as +/-6mm. Sometime this distance is increased, for example if a rope cutter is fitted. This
Ambassador Marine Gives the dimensions in detail.

The shaft in the video looks about 35mm or 1 3/8". The rule of thumb for unsupported overhang is 1.5* shaft diameter so just over 50mm. Look again at the video and then you will understand why I queried it. I did also suggest that the shaft had been made overlong so that a larger propeller could be fitted and still maintain good tip clearance, but there is not a clear image of the propeller and hull to determine if this is so. Whatever the reason that is an awful installation and will almost certainly lead to vibration and short cutless life.

I hope that is all clear now, but happy to answer any questions you have.

Tranona should Edit Yachting Monthly

 

[lustyd]

Tranona should Edit Yachting Monthly

I think they have enough quality problems as it is