portable fuel polisher - DIY

sarabande

sarabande

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The boat is not big enough to merit a permanently plumbed in fuel polisher , and I'd really like to be able clean out the boat tank, and tanks in Landrover, tractor, generator and about 6 25l plastic cans of red which have been sitting around for a year or two. And if I build a portable polishing unit (say capable of dealing with up to 100l a time) the little mooring association to which I belong has indicated an interest in borrowing it for community fuel polishing. And beer swap :)

I have a number of spare plastic cans (which I shall clean meticulously before use :) ) and really would like a detailed shopping list of the parts and suppliers please.

A rough track would be from tank or can A to water filter to first coarse filter to second fine filter to can B then back to a cleaned tank or storage can C (with good biocide added). Does the spec need adjusting ?

I really don't know enough about filter micron sizes, and would prefer not to pay Racor prices unless it's absolutely necessary.

I know there have been previous threads, but it's the portable aspect that is the main design criterion, so presumably plastic pipes rather than copper ?


thanks in advance
 
Yes, flexible plastic pipes, although a semi-rigid pipe is usefil for delving around in the bottom of a fixed tank. I built one with a 12v pump connected to a CAV-type filter, if you just circulate the fuel it will clean it up surprisingly well.
 
Tim

I put my rig together in 2008 and it is still going strong, and I have never suffered a fuel related breakdown. I generally polish about once every couple of months for an hour each tank and after refuelling.

It consists of a Baldwin Filter separator with a Holley 12v fuel pump. It is important to suck through the filter rather than push through it. The pumps breaks down larger lumps of water in to small particles that can pass through the coalescing filter.

I have fitted instant drip less connectors but when I first used it I used a copper dip tube to draw with and rubber gas hose to return via the filler cap. If you have a dirty dry then simply filter it drum to drum once or twice before turning it to the tank, clean and polished.

 
My suggestion would be to talk to the technical helpline at Fleetguard.
Their filters are widely available from professional motor factors, the filters are at least as good as or better than Racor, and are better priced.

Talk to them about your requirements and they will recommend a suitable filter head and filter for you.

ASAP supply a range of suitable fuel pumps.
 
My Mk1 fuel polisher simply consists of a 12V diesel pump, rubber 8mm fuel hose and motorbike fuel filters bought by the dozen off a Chinese website. As I already had the fuel hose I think it cost me less than €20 plus a bit for wiring.

The pump is rated at 45l/hour, which is plausible enough as it does a 20l can, which often holds 22 to 23l according to the local garage's meter in about half an hour.

I fitted a small junction box with a switch close to where I would be using the pump - handy to turn it on or off at a second's notice.

If I want to clean the tank, I pump the fuel through the filter into clean cans. Cycle the last few litres in the tank, then use it to pump back through the filter. That could be up to80 to 100l.

I generally use it also when filling the tank from cans.
 
lpdsn said:
My Mk1 fuel polisher simply consists of a 12V diesel pump, rubber 8mm fuel hose and motorbike fuel filters bought by the dozen off a Chinese website. As I already had the fuel hose I think it cost me less than €20 plus a bit for wiring.

The pump is rated at 45l/hour, which is plausible enough as it does a 20l can, which often holds 22 to 23l according to the local garage's meter in about half an hour.

I fitted a small junction box with a switch close to where I would be using the pump - handy to turn it on or off at a second's notice.

If I want to clean the tank, I pump the fuel through the filter into clean cans. Cycle the last few litres in the tank, then use it to pump back through the filter. That could be up to80 to 100l.

I generally use it also when filling the tank from cans.
Click to expand...

Thats exactly how I built mine mainly for transferring fuel from cans to my tanks. My pump is one of the jabsco gear pumps but any gear or sliding vane pump will do.

My fuel transfer pump permanently fitted to my boat is based on an old triumph 2500 PI fuel pressure pump with filters and selector valves.

https://www.google.co.za/search?q=f...QIQA#tbm=isch&q=electric+fuel+transfer+pump&*
 
I cobbled something together out of bits lying around.
One thing I would say is a good idea is a gauze or sintered pre-filter that can be cleaned and re-used.
Even CAV-type filter elements cost money, and basically you are going out to get the crud into the filter.
A moderately grotty tank can block more than one CAV element.
 
Slight thread drift. When I was faced with "polishing" about 30 gallons of contaminated diesel I found that 3 plastic dustbins was a cheap storage facility as the tank was cleaned prior to "polishing" and refilling.
 
Be careful when choosing the type of filter you use.

Ther are filters, and then there are filters.

Cheap CAV or motorbike filters will take out particles.

Coalescing filters like Fleetguard, Racor or other commercial diesel fuel filters will also remove moisture. This is critical if you really want to polish the fuel properly. A Fleetguard filter for example may cost more than a CAV but it holds up to 6 times its own weight in crud before getting blocked. The level of filtration is far better too.

I would be wary too about the type of pump you use. Gear or vane pumps could force through the flow even if the filter is blocked, not a good idea. The pump needs to be properly matched to the filter in terms of both flow and pressure.

It really isn't just a case of any old pump and filter combination you can find lying around.
 
Last edited:
Baldwin identify the filter holder as B10-AL

and the filter itself as a PF10 (which is a "4 micron" filter). That sounds right-ish to me . Any comments pls ?

Tbug. I understand from Superheat the need to suck fuel through rather than push. Baldwin suggest their B10 filter can work at 25 gpm (pumped) or 10gpm with a 30inch head. I can find Holley and Facet pumps that match those flow and pressure figures.



Progress :)
 
Trundlebug said:
Be careful when choosing the type of filter you use.

Ther are filters, and then there are filters.

Cheap CAV or motorbike filters will take out particles.

Coalescing filters like Fleetguard, Racor or other commercial diesel fuel filters will also remove moisture. This is critical if you really want to polish the fuel properly. A Fleetguard filter for example may cost more than a CAV but it holds up to 6 times its own weight in crud before getting blocked. The level of filtration is far better too.

I would be wary too about the type of pump you use. Gear or vane pumps could force through the flow even if the filter is blocked, not a good idea. The pump needs to be properly matched to the filter in terms of both flow and pressure.

It really isn't just a case of any old pump and filter combination you can find lying around.
Click to expand...

The bog standard CAV type filter will coalesce the water out out.
But it may not be as effective if the fuel is being whizzed through it at excessve speed.
I'd assume they are designed to work at the kind of flow rates associated with the tractors and what have you that they were intended for.
Some people will tell you that Racors don't work on too small an engine, as the fuel doesn't centrifuge at low flow rates.
 
Yes that does sound like progress, well done.

You've clearly taken some advice off a professional, Baldwin and Mann are two other reputable brands fitted to commercial vehicles although I don't know much about them. 4 micron should be fine, anything sub 5 - 10 is OK as far as I know. Latestarter of the Mobo forum is the real expert in all this filtration stuff.

As I said, as long as the filters also remove moisture (they'll tell you how much % if you ask), which are classed as coalescing filters, they'll be fine.
 
sarabande said:
Baldwin identify the filter holder as B10-AL

and the filter itself as a PF10 (which is a "4 micron" filter). That sounds right-ish to me . Any comments pls ?

Tbug. I understand from Superheat the need to suck fuel through rather than push. Baldwin suggest their B10 filter can work at 25 gpm (pumped) or 10gpm with a 30inch head. I can find Holley and Facet pumps that match those flow and pressure figures.



Progress :)
Click to expand...
The one on my rig uses a Baldwin PF10 element. I reckon this will last ~ two seasons, subject to how much gunk it picks up. My current boat hasn't had anything come out yet - not a droplet of water and no gunk.

There wasn't much science in my pump selection, but it has worked for 9 years now without an issue.
 
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