Ply locker lids

[oldsaltoz]

I'm thinking instead of the hardwood strip I'll just use thicker resin there - it'll be under paint so it really makes no difference on mine but I can see why I need to do something there.

"thicker resin"
Epoxy resin is brittle when thick and no binders are added, so not a good idea, adding a binder like micro-balloons than glassing over would be better, or just add some micro-fibres to the resin.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[lustyd]

Forgive the dirty decks, water was off at the time. When clean the paint will match

 

[VicS]

Forgive the dirty decks, water was off at the time. When clean the paint will match

Similar idea to my locker lids except that they are varnished ( many coats) teak faced ply. Look a million dollars but now on the second set in 35 years .

The OA can supply GRP locker tops ... Much more sensible but I like the look of the varnished wood

 

[Amulet]

West System obsession (thread drift - but I didn't start it)

No expert on different epoxies, but I use West System for what seems a rational reason. The resin to catalyst rations are 5 to 1 or 3 to 1. This means it is possible to mix up even tiny quantities accurately enough. Mostly I use it for itsy bitsy wee jobs. All the others I've worked with have very much smaller catalyst ratios, which makes mixing up 100 ml difficult.

Am I wrong? Are there other suppliers whose ratios are more like West's?

 

[knuterikt]

No expert on different epoxies, but I use West System for what seems a rational reason. The resin to catalyst rations are 5 to 1 or 3 to 1. This means it is possible to mix up even tiny quantities accurately enough. Mostly I use it for itsy bitsy wee jobs. All the others I've worked with have very much smaller catalyst ratios, which makes mixing up 100 ml difficult.

Am I wrong? Are there other suppliers whose ratios are more like West's?

SP 106 from Gurit http://www.gurit.com/files/documents/sp-106v12pdf.pdf

Aeroepoxy has a mixing ratio 2:1

 

[Daydream believer]

Forgive the dirty decks, water was off at the time. When clean the paint will match

Oh dear
Now you will have to start all over again

 

[ianfr]

For the toughest finish, not only seal with an epoxy resin, but then sheath with a thin sheet of cloth in epoxy. It is best if you sand off all sharp edges before finishing - it makes it much easier to sheath it and will greatly reduce the risk of breaking edges from the sheet. Epoxy needs to be protected from UV degradation, so final finishing with non-slip deck paint is pretty much ideal - there's nothing more unsettling than a slippery cockpit seat, whether your sitting on it or trying to walk on it.

Rob.

+1 I did exactly that, and painted the whole thing with non slip paint. very satisfied after last season.

Ian