Ply locker lids

lustyd

lustyd

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Hi all, I'm planning to replace my cockpit locker lids this weekend which are made of ply. Should I seal them before painting? I'll be painting them with the same deck paint as the rest of the boat which I'm sure will seal on its own but debating coating them in resin or something first, or even putting filler on to smooth them off before the paint.
I don't like the look of varnish for these so that's out, and the price of marine ply is not justified for this either so that's out - I'm happy to fill any voids before the finish goes on.
Thanks
Dave
 
No replies yet? OK, I'll chip in.

Your ply lids will last much longer and look much better if they are 'flow coated' with epoxy resin prior to painting - to screen the epoxy from the degrading effects of UV light and to look good - for the resin soaks into and seals the 'pores' of the wood, and especially those that have been cut by saws, router bits, etc. Details are all in the Gougeon Brothers seminal book 'On Boat Construction'. Suppliers of WEST System Epoxy Resins can provide both book and leaflets - or your other friends are Google/YouTube.
 
Thanks guys, I have a perticular aversion to West products though due to the way everyone uses their name like it's some kind of religion! I'll pop some normal resin on though if that's the consensus :)
 
New to this wood work stuff but isn't epoxy better for sticking to wood, or is it the other way round? I have just used West System epoxy to repair a split in my gaff and it seems to stick like the brown stuff to a blanket.

Must be a reason everyone goes on about WS products. Do it right, do it once!
 
I would agree epoxy coat them once or twice, seal the lids from the atmosphere. Filler plenty of coats of what ever paint you fancy...
 
lustyd said:
Thanks guys, I have a perticular aversion to West products though due to the way everyone uses their name like it's some kind of religion! I'll pop some normal resin on though if that's the consensus :)
Click to expand...

What do you mean by "normal resin"? Not a polyester resin surely ?/


If you dont like Wessex resins then use SP106 epoxy resin
 
For the toughest finish, not only seal with an epoxy resin, but then sheath with a thin sheet of cloth in epoxy. It is best if you sand off all sharp edges before finishing - it makes it much easier to sheath it and will greatly reduce the risk of breaking edges from the sheet. Epoxy needs to be protected from UV degradation, so final finishing with non-slip deck paint is pretty much ideal - there's nothing more unsettling than a slippery cockpit seat, whether your sitting on it or trying to walk on it.

Tome consuming, I know, but the results should last for decades.

Rob.
 
rob2 said:
For the toughest finish, not only seal with an epoxy resin, but then sheath with a thin sheet of cloth in epoxy. It is best if you sand off all sharp edges before finishing - it makes it much easier to sheath it and will greatly reduce the risk of breaking edges from the sheet. Epoxy needs to be protected from UV degradation, so final finishing with non-slip deck paint is pretty much ideal - there's nothing more unsettling than a slippery cockpit seat, whether your sitting on it or trying to walk on it.

Tome consuming, I know, but the results should last for decades.

Rob.
Click to expand...
I agree; that would be the Rolls Royce of jobs. I have watched professional boat builders coat ply with epoxy using a plastic spatula to 'scrape' the epoxy thinly across the surface. Two coats is usually enough to seal things, but make sure you cover the raw edges well. I also use throw away paint brushes but cut the bristles down to only a cm long or so which makes them very 'stubby' and much easier to work the thickened epoxy with.

Alternatively a simple vacuum bag with an old vacuum cleaner or suction makes the scrim fit very neatly. Get the cloth flat and tidy up the lose ends round the edges afterwards.

If you have an aversion to the name "West" then use any other EPOXY resin - International do one as well. I guess that West Epoxy is 'revered' because its available and you can get pumps etc to measure the ratio easily etc. Don't knock a winning formula...
 
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This is (IMHO) the best product for sealing ply,

http://www.mbfg.co.uk/epoxy-resins/eposeal-300-epoxy-primer.html

it is an epoxy product that is very thin and will soak in to the end grain. A couple of coats and you can then paint as normal. Anybody who works on wood in the marine environment should protect the wood first with this type of product.

Once treated water cannot enter the wood and damage it.

Tom
 
Almost any brand of an epoxy based will do.

But, the ply MUST be dry before coating or you risk rot from within.

Heat the timber in the sun or with a heater of some sort before coating, the heat will automatically thin the resin for improved penetration.

The cut edges of the ply will take most of the resin as the exposed end grian just keeps sucking it in.

Good luck and fair winds. :)
 
Thanks all, I should clarify that I have no problem with epoxy, just the religion that is West advertising/brainwashing!

Ladyinbed - I think a hardwood tongue and groove edge would double the boats value, hence using normal ply rather than marine :D
 
I fitted new cockpit locker lids last weekend. They are WBP ply with a hardwood strip on the front edges, glued on. Following Richard Hare's advice in PBO I have 'varnished' them with International Woodskin. Hoping for three years of no maintenance on them.
 
I'm thinking instead of the hardwood strip I'll just use thicker resin there - it'll be under paint so it really makes no difference on mine but I can see why I need to do something there.
 
lustyd said:
Thanks all, I should clarify that I have no problem with epoxy, just the religion that is West advertising/brainwashing!
Click to expand...

There are several good competing products out there, but the fact still remains that West publish (for free) lots of good documentation on using epoxy.
Most of what they publish is not product specific :)
Shop around and buy where you get the best price.
 
knuterikt said:
There are several good competing products out there, but the fact still remains that West publish (for free) lots of good documentation on using epoxy.
Most of what they publish is not product specific :)
Shop around and buy where you get the best price.
Click to expand...

Hehe I know that, it's just the way everyone feels compelled to say "West System Epoxy" every f@*$ing time rather than just "epoxy" that makes me want to fight the trend and brainwashing :D
 
I would use a layer of very light glass cloth and epoxy resin. Does not take much longer than just epoxy. I use it on model glider wings. It gives a very strong ding resistant finish. Use an old credit card to spread a push the resin into the cloth. A light sanding and ready for painting.
 
oldbilbo said:
No replies yet? OK, I'll chip in.

Your ply lids will last much longer and look much better if they are 'flow coated' with epoxy resin prior to painting - to screen the epoxy from the degrading effects of UV light and to look good - for the resin soaks into and seals the 'pores' of the wood, and especially those that have been cut by saws, router bits, etc. Details are all in the Gougeon Brothers seminal book 'On Boat Construction'. Suppliers of WEST System Epoxy Resins can provide both book and leaflets - or your other friends are Google/YouTube.
Click to expand...

I agree epoxy covered well prepared wood looks great, epoxy will not tolerate UV light, a simple coat of a high build epoxy primer over lightly sanded and Acetone wiped epoxy will allow you cover and protect with almost anything you like.
 
I have a small rudder attached to the side of my rudder stock, the "blade" is a bit of birch ply, I coated it in epoxy, and then antifoul, it spends 6 months of the year in the drink, it's been fine.

If you wish to inspect it, it's on the boat on the left as you walk along the front between the water and the cottages in emsworth marina. :)
 
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