plumbing Q

[vas]

morning all,

since i disassembled the 2.5 heads in MiToS, I'm there with no running water as there was a single plastic/whatever type off white jobbie pipe bringing the water along the craft teeing off (with bronze bolt on equip, with compression rings) wherever there is a supply. Now, having 3 cut out tees is no good for water... Further, I often spend 3-4hours in the morning and have to go to my office nearby stinking which is no good so I need to address that soon. Yes, I know I can wash my hands in the sea 1m away but depending on the tide it gets slippery and may end up swimming instead of cleaning

Anyway, planning to repipe the lot (heads moved from stbrd to port anyway so different setup alltogether) and was wondering what is the normal practice nowadays. I mean in domestic plumbing we (at least down here) have a collector off which the pipework comes out. That means that you can individually block supply to sink, shower, washbasin etc. Should I do that or go with the one_pipe_fits_all_and_if_you_have_a_problem_you're_buggered approach of yesteryear?

As you can imagine I'm for the collector approach coming to a second Q regarding ID pipes, usually it's thicker to the collector and thick(ish) for the shower, all else being 15mm I'd have thought.
Opinions?

cheers

V.

 

[rafiki_]

V, if it were me, I'd go for the absolutely simplest system possible, ensuring easy access to any connections, as these are the most likely to cause you problems. I guess the thing to consider is water pressure if someone is in the shower, and someone else turns a tap on. With a single supply, this might cause problems in the shower? So you might consider a dedicated supply to this?

 

[PaulGooch]

I did a full re-plumb on our old Princess 32 and used normal "plastic" domestic pipe with push together fittings. In your case i would do the same, the fitting will hold full cold water mains pressure, so no worries there.

You could use 22mm pipe for the "backbone" and fit reducing tees where the current tees are, reducing down to 15mm. At a convenient place in each run of 15mm pipe, fit a quarter turn tap (also available in push fit plastic). This way, if you had a problem at a sink, you turn off it's quarter turn valve and all other equipment works.

A short piece of pipe and a push on stop end in the tool kit would mean that an unexpected problem could be "capped" without cutting off the entire system.

Here's some of what is available (as an example) : http://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/jg-speedfit/cat831674

 

[vas]

reviving an oldish thread,

I'll probably go for PG suggestion with a 22mm as a backbone (well, going from the tank to a collector that will be living in the bilges under the two heads) and then 15mm for the two washbasins and the shower.
Further there's going to be a collector on the starting point so that I can have two 15mm pipes as well, one going to the shower on the bathing platform and the other to the kitchen sink.

Q: is it reasonable to have fresh water on the bow, or should I only get seawater there to wash the deck and clean the mess from the anchor?

Q2: having to buy new taps (ok, it's med here so mix taps for sure - one hole in the sink) what does the panel think of electronic ones that operate when hands are under them ONLY? With a few kids around (and mainly wife that often forgets taps open at home) I think it's a worthy investment. Don't know if they are 12V or battery powered though, so got to check.

cheers

V.

 

[Divemaster1]

........
I'll probably go for PG suggestion with a 22mm as a backbone (well, going from the tank to a collector that will be living in the bilges under the two heads) ....
Q: is it reasonable to have fresh water on the bow, or should I only get seawater there to wash the deck and clean the mess from the anchor?

Q2: having to buy new taps (ok, it's med here so mix taps for sure - one hole in the sink) what does the panel think of electronic ones that operate when hands are under them ONLY? With a few kids around (and mainly wife that often forgets taps open at home) I think it's a worthy investment. Don't know if they are 12V or battery powered though, so got to check.

Just FYI ... We have Water tank at bow, taking water to stern in a 22mm pipe to filter and pump in lasarette. Then to 22 mm to collector (20 Cm from pump) then 22 mm from collector with a T (with valve) going to hot water tank and stern shower (cold only). Forwards is two 22 mm pipes (hot & cold) with T pieces and valve for galley. Then onwards to below deck in corridor between cabins where there is a manifold of valves going to the two heads and showers.

22mm Sea Water only goes to bow...

Would personally stay away from anything electric (need permanent power supply) with sensitive electronics in boat if not proven to withstand salty air environment... better to restrict flow with some sort of low volume strainer....

Correction: Ref to Water tank, not Fuel ....

 

[vas]

Alf, you confuse me a bit. You probably mean you have the water tank in the bow and route water to the stern pump and filter using a 22mm pipe, right?

OK, other than that the approach is v.similar to what I'm planning except that teeing off for the galley is going to be "interesting" as if something happens I have to crawl between port engine and hull to reach the tee and the valve to isolate... Not fun, hence my idea of having a small collector after the pump in order to get the galley water straight off in a 15mm pipe.

Regarding electronic infrared taps (as in here) are reasonably safe imho as:

• always fail closed
• only need a couple (or four AA batteries so no need for 220V constantly!)
• fairly robust as I see them in operation around airports, hotels, restaurants and they seem to work
• well sealed to avoid plain water so should be okay in a salty environment as well (most likely)

Only negative thing is having to install analogue mixers (ugh, manual that is!) hidden underneath to get the temp right and the cost of the taps themselves. I know Grohe are not cheap, but will probably go for something cheaper and mostlikely online (although these things are heavy...)
So my dream of having a bathroom fit with Vola hardware will have to wait till I win the loto that I don't play

cheers

V.

 

[Divemaster1]

Alf, you confuse me a bit. You probably mean you have the water tank in the bow and route water to the stern ........

Yup ...and the word "Fuel" will be replaced by "Water" in original text ...

 

[vas]

small update,

having bought 2 resin 25X45cm washbasins for the two heads (and currently finalizing my design based on their dimensions) I also spotted in the same place (Leroy-Merlin massive FR chain thing btw) some infrared mixer taps for 73euro each!
Checked them carefully:

• got a properly sealed box with the e/v and 2 or 4 dont remember AA batteries that last for a couple of years)
• got a 5year warranty
• made in PRC (as everything these days)
• have the mixer handle on top (not exceptionally beautiful, but good construction nevertheless)

Will shop around and possibly get them (for the price if they make the 5.01years I'm much better off buying them again new rather than paying 300+ for each Grohe or other reputable brand )


Further, spend a couple of hours in the e/r and noticed the routing for all pipework and I'm not so sure I'd like to start with 2X15mm and 2X18mm pipes going towards the bow (the two stopping at the galley the others moving fwrd. So I'll think of a way to tee off in an easily accessible place and get me plumbing going.

Also in the lazarette I noticed a small 40X50X15cm white rounded corner box that has an inlet and outlet and gets current and also features a toggle switch (that is rather warm to touch!)
Could that be a quick heater thingy for water??? Not got a photo atm, will take a few today and post them here later on.
Mind you, I've not spotted a proper boiler anywhere in the boat (and I'm pretty sure I've had access to all areas around MiToS) so it kind of makes sense to have such a device. I also guess it's 220V and obviously disregards heat produced by the engines which is a shame. If so, I'll probably replace it with a boiler connected to the engine that I run to charge the service batteries (killing two birds with one stone)


cheers

V.

 

[vas]

this off-white device must be a fastheater thing. multimeter says it receives 220V, it has one pipe in one out and this toggle that due to various coats of paint haven't got a clue when it's on and when off. To be safe, I disconnected the cables so it's ornamental atm. Will definitely fit a proper water boiler and possibly a largish one, depends on where I decide to fit it.

Also had a closer look at the pipes and I'm definitely not keeping any!

V.