Plug up the sail drive hole temp.

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oldsaltoz

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G'day all,

We are about to remove on of our VP 120 sail drives (VP2003) and fit a temporary 3mm plate to allow the cat to remain in the water.

Has anyone done this?

Any advice or comments most welcome.

Avagoodweekend......
 
Absolutely no idea how to do it but one piece of non-technical advice would be to consider talking to your insurance co about this beforehand (if you have one). Cos if it all goes wrong and you have to make a claim then things could get a bit tricky unless they were aware of (and happy with) your proposal.
 
I've seen a grp "help please" post from oldsaltoz. I really need to try putting some more water in it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Be fair, if I asked an IT question I'd get flack, but would be asking for a genuine reason. Oldsaltoz is one of the greatest resources on this forum, and deserves a genuine answer! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Mind you, it is nice seeing an expert asking /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
I don't see how a sealed plate can be any more hazardous than a rubber gaiter as presumably fitted.

Why not, do it in four, outer plate rubber seal, inner plate rubber seal, once all that fitted, you could then add some GRP over the inside if not confident about sea holding.

Otherwise, I would personally glass it up permanently, as the saildrive (I presume) must be on a flattish piece of hull, then the GRP job should be fairly simple and above all quick, you could use a piece of hard board to bend a nice curvy mold if needed.

Presumably to lift the engine means the boat will be dry for long enough to carry out a GRP repair. Or, are you planning to fit a new motor in the future, is it not possible to leave the leg in place and just remove the prop?
 
Three things I still have passed down to me by my late Father.

1. If you can help then do.

2. Do not waste time worrying about things you have no control over;
(like being in a big storm at sea.)

3. If in doubt ask, then evaluate and compare.

I have done the sums and stepped through proposed methodology and it looks good. the top pf the VP engine mount box (the rubber gasket level) is very close to the waterline so pressure will be minimal.

Avagoodweekend......
 
G'day Dog Watch,

The sail drive is only being removed for a few days for some internal repairs on the selector so I'm not planning to glass anything.

The saildrive is mounted through a molded fibreglass mounting that has captive nuts for the bolts that hold the rubber gasket in place.

Removal and refit will be completed without lift out.

The engine has enough space all around for good access and any movement needed but no plan to remove it, just the leg of the saildrive.

We have twin VP 2003's one in each hull of our Cat with a fully enclosed bulkhead fore and aft = no fumes or diesel smell inside ever.

Avagoodweekend......
 
If you're a little concerned that the plate might be blown into the hull then how about an internal support bar to hold it in position - can you do a vertical bar to the middle of the plate?

How are you fixing it in at the sides?

3mm ... in stainless - should be plenty big enough I would've thought, although it may flex slightly it is certainly better than 1mm!! Had you not thought about using a bit of plywood instead?
 
I would have thought it would work OK - assuming its similar to my setup (single sail drive) - I think I'd be quite happy with a sheet of stainless bolted in place instead. I think I'd be tempted to get some rubber (maybe even thin neoprene ?) to clamp between the plate and the hull to improve the seal - in much the same way as the volvo gaiter does with the clamping ring

Never tried it mind you ....

Good luck !
 
Hi Oldsatoz
just a quick question what is the problem with the saildrive selecter, just interested as I had a problem with a 120s saildrive which caused the selecter to be difficult to move from reverse to neutral and sometimes slpped from forward into neutral.
 
G'day Fireball,


<<How are you fixing it in at the sides?>>

We will use the multiple bolts that are used to secure the rubber gasket, this will also include a steel ring with holes to take the bolts, so bolts will pass through the plate and ring.

Pressure will be minimal as the top of the hole is very close to the water with saildrive attached, so may lift a little more when removed.

We do have some timber ready to cut to length and brace from the underside of the on deck access hatch.

Any flexing should be restricted to the centre of the hole the gasket and saildrive sat in, as the plate should not move when fully bolted and clamped with all the bolts.

Avagoodweekend......
 
Thanks PembrokeshirePromise,

We plan to form a seal between the plate and the rubber clamp with Bostik Caulking compound and expansion joint foam, this avoids the major clean up when removing the plate later, I was looking at some wet suit material as a temporary and have no clean up, but gave up looking for a supplier who needed my bank manager to OK the cost.

Avagoodweekend......
 
G'day Hairbox,

I can only answer that after we strip her down, I do know it's not a simple job having looked at the drawings, it has all sorts of bits hanging off it to protect it from being abused, looks like it knows what rev's the main shaft is spinning at for starters, and dismantling looks rather complex; however I'm confident we can get it back into working order.

Perhaps a couple of weeks away yet so PM me and I post the details for all interested.

Avagoodweekend......
 
excellent - looks like you've got it covered then ....

are you doing this between tides or getting lifted out and in ... the lift in could always be abandoned if problems become apparent .... but if you do the wait for tides then you could spend quite a while bailing .... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
Stainless steel plus neophrene sheet seems the biz, better than having to nail the Christmas ham in place from the inside! Now which famous mariner had to do that? Was it Captain Voss, or Erling Tambs,or another, and who had a dog named "spare provisions" (raining and grim in Dublin but at least not very cold)
 
Yes Rireball,

we plan to drop the saildrive between tides, there will be very little pressure on the plate, as a back up we also have on board battery powered pumps and mains powered as well but I very much doubt we will require them. the dry out will no more than 50 metres from her normal marina berth and we can still manoeuvre her on the remaining engine.

Avagoodweekend......
 
G'day Paulclan,

No idea who it was.

<<<raining and grim in Dublin but at least not very cold>>>

almost 9:00 Pm 2100 hrs, and just looked at the thermometer near the back door, 30.3*C. not a sign of rain but they are promising some next week.

Avagoodweekend......
 
Just seen your post.
Yes I have done it myself. Stainless OK if you have got it but I did it with a bit of bog standard plywood! One bit cut about 2inches bigger than the hole about 1/2" thick on the inside and a 1/4" thick bit on the outside. Bolt through both and use lots of non setting sealant. Plasticine is good even. The pressure on the hull is easy to calculate but is 3 parts of FA frankly. Don't worry about it. Oh! By the way, a lump of 2"X2" as a shore inside up to the coachroof is a good security measure and will hold the inner bit in place while you screw the outside bit in place.
She'll be right!
 
Thanks for that Mike,

Good to get feedback from someone who has actually done it this way, also happy that my proposed method has been done without problems.

I'm only using the 3 mm stainless as I had a bit laying around left over from a trawler re fit some years ago but taking up space.

Yes I posted that I have timbers to hold down the plate and I plan to use the existing bolts on the ring to secure the plate, we have it cut but not drilled, till I get better access.

I like the idea of using a non setting setting sealant, I was planning to a very thin layer of caulking compound and a foam expansion joint 'Backing Rod' to reduce clean up. a non setting sealant will be easy to remove, I took delivery of another 160 litre drum this week, I use it every day in my Waterproofing fibreglass based system, and boat repairs, mods etc.

You just saved me a bit more work, thanks again.

Avagoodweekend......
 
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