Plug in system

fionn1432

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Hi
All i have a quick question i recently had to replace a fuse holder on a plug in system. A aux sink water pump and interior lights electrical system. With glass fuses on it and switches etc. One of the green pig tail connectors had burnt out along with the original fuse holder. Hence me having to replace it my mother accidentally plugged in the 12v kettle while the cooler box was on. Lucky it didn't catch fire i have 15awg cable to replace the green pig tail would this cable be ok. Nothing is written on the green cable amps etc.
 

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Hi
All i have a quick question i recently had to replace a fuse holder on a plug in system. A aux sink water pump and interior lights electrical system. With glass fuses on it and switches etc. One of the green pig tail connectors had burnt out along with the original fuse holder. Hence me having to replace it my mother accidentally plugged in the 12v kettle while the cooler box was on. Lucky it didn't catch fire i have 15awg cable to replace the green pig tail would this cable be ok. Nothing is written on the green cable amps etc.
15 AWG is approx. 1.5 mm CSA and should take 15 amps. you don't give any indication of current rating of fuse etc. so your actual question is comparable to the length of string :ROFLMAO:
 
That switch seems to be at the end of the circuit which I suspect isn't meant for a cooler or electric kettle, though I don't know what amperage they take. I think that you were lucky that the wiring was damaged at the start of the wiring linking the switches.
I would see whether a separate circuit could be fitted from a bus bar assuming that there is one.
 
That switch seems to be at the end of the circuit which I suspect isn't meant for a cooler or electric kettle, though I don't know what amperage they take. I think that you were lucky that the wiring was damaged at the start of the wiring linking the switches.
I would see whether a separate circuit could be fitted from a bus bar assuming that there is one.
Very lucky mate I've always powerd a cooler on the aux no problem. The 12v kettle over loaded it. The aux cigi takes a 10amp 32mm fast blow glass fuse. I was just wandering would a 15awg wire be ok to replace the green wire that burnt out.
 
Hi
All i have a quick question i recently had to replace a fuse holder on a plug in system. A aux sink water pump and interior lights electrical system. With glass fuses on it and switches etc. One of the green pig tail connectors had burnt out along with the original fuse holder. Hence me having to replace it my mother accidentally plugged in the 12v kettle while the cooler box was on. Lucky it didn't catch fire i have 15awg cable to replace the green pig tail would this cable be ok. Nothing is written on the green cable amps etc.
Is that on a 12volt system, or 240?

Do you have a 12v kettle?
 
I'm impressed that you can boil a kettle off that 😮.

Most 12v kettles are rubbish, or the one's I've seen were.

A kettle takes a lot of power very quickly. That's why most of us usually have gas aboard I suppose.
 
I'm impressed that you can boil a kettle off that 😮.

Most 12v kettles are rubbish, or the one's I've seen were.

A kettle takes a lot of power very quickly. That's why most of us usually have gas aboard I suppose.
Hi I don't normally use the aux on this for the kettle my mother accidentally. Plugged it in while the cooler box was on. The cooler box is fine to work of this system but I sometimes use it from the main cigi lighter in the van. I normally use the gas or 240v kettle when hooked up to mains. And gas off grid
 
A cooler box would be fine as the power drawn is of th order of 36 W which requires a current of only 3 A from your 12 V supply. The kettle is a whole new ballgame. I looked at a the specifications of a couple and one was quoted as 150 W power while the other had a 100 W element, so you are talking about currents of between 8 and 13 amps. As PabloPicasso commented, such low power kettles are almost useless. The higher power kne had a reported capacity of 1 litre. If filled with water at 20 degrees, I calculate that it would take about 40 minutes to get anywhere near boiling point and in practice it would take longer as (in the best tradition of physics lecturing) I have simplified the problem by neglecting anything that I can't estimate, such as heat losses.
 
That isn't really correct.

Looks to me, from the picture, that the switches are all daisy chained form the switch on the left and the feed to that switch looks rather small.
The main feed into the switches are daisy chained. Then single wires from the on position of each of the switches are going into the fuse holder then out to lights sink water pump and aux
 
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The main feed into the switches are daisy chained. Then single wires from the on position of each of the switches are going into the fuse holder then out to lights sink water pump and aux
So there is no point replacing the melted wire with bigger cable, at the supply cabling will still be 1.5mm. If everything was turned on at the same time that 1.5mm cable going to switches will be carrying the current for everything.
 
A cooler box would be fine as the power drawn is of th order of 36 W which requires a current of only 3 A from your 12 V supply. The kettle is a whole new ballgame. I looked at a the specifications of a couple and one was quoted as 150 W power while the other had a 100 W element, so you are talking about currents of between 8 and 13 amps. As PabloPicasso commented, such low power kettles are almost useless. The higher power kne had a reported capacity of 1 litre. If filled with water at 20 degrees, I calculate that it would take about 40 minutes to get anywhere near boiling point and in practice it would take longer as (in the best tradition of physics lecturing) I have simplified the problem by neglecting anything that I can't estimate, such as heat losses.
Thank you
 
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