Plug cutters

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chrishelen

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I am about to invest in a set,i am not a carpenter but i need to replace some teak decking in my cockpit,

at the moment the teak is attached to the ply locker lids by way of screws from underneath,the ply is mostly rotten so i will replace it with new,

I have been advised a better way is to drill through the teak and ply and bolt them together hiding the heads of the bolts underneath plugs,

where would i get a decent set of plug cutters?

thanks.
 
chrishelen said:
I am about to invest in a set,i am not a carpenter but i need to replace some teak decking in my cockpit,

at the moment the teak is attached to the ply locker lids by way of screws from underneath,the ply is mostly rotten so i will replace it with new,

I have been advised a better way is to drill through the teak and ply and bolt them together hiding the heads of the bolts underneath plugs,

where would i get a decent set of plug cutters?

thanks.
Click to expand...

http://www.axminster.co.uk/category-Plug-Cutters-and-Plugs-207896.htm
but personally i prefer the stanley plug cutters
 
ccscott49 said:
Where do you get stanley plug cutters and countersinks, prferably in inch sizes?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

not sure as i have a few still "In stock"
they come in "screw" sizes from No6 > No12
i will search & post if i find them ( i still have a few from my time @ "Offshore Yachts" :o )

nothing mentioned on the stanley site
 
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sailorman said:
not sure as i have a few still "In stock"
they come in "screw" sizes from No6 > No12
i will search & post if i find them ( i still have a few from my time @ "Offshore Yachts" :o )

nothing mentioned on the stanley site
Click to expand...

thanks for that, managed to find one 1/2" countersink, need them for re-plugging my teak decks,
 
If its only locker lids and not structural to the boat I'd say new ply, epoxy coated, then epoxy the teak strips down, no fastenings.

Leave the underside of the teak strips sawn not planned, the roughness will help the glue.
 
burgundyben said:
If its only locker lids and not structural to the boat I'd say new ply, epoxy coated, then epoxy the teak strips down, no fastenings.

Leave the underside of the teak strips sawn not planned, the roughness will help the glue.
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Agree. Would not screw and plug. Huge amount of unecessary work to create more work in the future for absolutely no benefit apart from seeing a neat row of round plugs (which will eventually let water in and pop out).

Two methods are epoxy strips of 2.5mm teak veneers onto the plywood base, leaving gaps to simulate seams and fill with either thickened pigmented epoxy or Sikaflex. Alternatively buy milled teak 6mm decking from somebody like Howells in Poole or Robbins in Bristol and bed down in Sikaflex. This is about twice the price of veneer and will last longer - although my veneered cockpit seats are about 15 years old with no signs of wear.
 
I have the Disston set from Axminster, quite good. But I agree with the others about gluing it down. We did a whole deck with 6mm thick teak & black (graphite) epoxy a la SP leaflet. Great job, but V messy and a lot of sanding. Sika sounds good with a black mastic joint.
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I have glued and screwed two lids so far,6 to go, its a hell of a lot of work the teak is in 50mm wide strips routed to give a seam,i used epoxy resin but i must admit i dont think the glue alone would hold the strips,

Sounds a lame question but where would i get correct glue?
 
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Thickened epoxy should do it, one assumes you have wiped the surface of the teak with acetone to de-oil it? The deck we did was held (and spaced ) by screws and washers until it set. Then they were removed. Sub-deck was ply and glass/epoxy.
3M 5200 has a reputation of sticking to anything for ever, but i have no personal experience.
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chrishelen said:
I have glued and screwed two lids so far,6 to go, its a hell of a lot of work the teak is in 50mm wide strips routed to give a seam,i used epoxy resin but i must admit i dont think the glue alone would hold the strips,

Sounds a lame question but where would i get correct glue?
Click to expand...

Thickened epoxy is fine. Really is no need for any mechanical fastenings. Just coat the panel in thickened epoxy and clamp the strips onto the plywood. You could easily do a whole lid at a time by clamping the ends of the strips so that they do not move, lay the lid on a flat surface, cover the teak with polythene and a few weights - building blocks are good. Epoxy does not need high clamping pressures.

Suggest you go onto the Wessex Resins site and look at their information on using WEST epoxy.
 
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