Playing "identify the electrics"

armchairsailor

armchairsailor

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Dear All,

I'm trying to identify the cut ends for electrics that are still partially installed in the boat, with the aim of possibly plugging into them, given time. To that end, I'm looking for suggestions as to the tiller pilot make and the transducer remnant that I've found. If anyone knows what they are, I'd be very grateful to know!

Thanks in advance....

IMG_0543.jpg IMG_0540.jpg
 
The plug is a "Dri-Plug" - a generic brand that could be used for anything. There are only two poles in this one, however, so if the location suggests a tillerpilot then they will just be power for a self-contained unit. Any type could be used; you could also connect things like a searchlight or a cockpit light if you wanted to.

Pete
 
Presumably the transducer is for a depth sounder. It looks like the cable has been cut off. If you buy a new sounder it is likely that this old transducer will work. While cable and transducer should be matched to that of the design of the electronics a mismatch will probably just give a poor performance at great depth. Get some coax or shielded cable, something looking like the bit that is sticking out and extend the cable with a plug on the end to suit your new sounder. Give it a go. If it works it will be a lot less trouble than getting then old transducer out and replacing it. olewill
 
Might be worth looking behind the tiller pilot connector to see if there's any control wires not connected. But if it's an old unit, then likely just power as Pete suggests.

Don't buy a new sounder display until you have positively identified the transducer. The problem is that even similar looking ones can operate on different frequencies eg 150kHz or 200 kHz which are not interchangeable. Without knowing the original display or having an ID tag on the cable (is the other end still there?) I suspect you're better off simply putting in a complete replacement depth system.

If it's an Airmar transducer, there is a lot of tech info available re wire colours /frequency etc, but you will need the tag for the part number - it won't be on the casing.
 
MikeCC said:
Might be worth looking behind the tiller pilot connector to see if there's any control wires not connected. But if it's an old unit, then likely just power as Pete suggests.

Don't buy a new sounder display until you have positively identified the transducer. The problem is that even similar looking ones can operate on different frequencies eg 150kHz or 200 kHz which are not interchangeable. Without knowing the original display or having an ID tag on the cable (is the other end still there?) I suspect you're better off simply putting in a complete replacement depth system.

If it's an Airmar transducer, there is a lot of tech info available re wire colours /frequency etc, but you will need the tag for the part number - it won't be on the casing.
Click to expand...

I think the plug is just for power - So I'd have to run wiring to the chartplotter/ fluxgate compass if I was to get a tillerpilot to do more than just hold the tiller, correct? Here's what's behind:
IMG_0544.jpg

I've been in touch with Airmar, and have narrowed both transducer housings down to being B17s, so that's a good start. I'd like to avoid spending the cash and just plugging in to what's existing. There's actually 2 more (older) transducers still there as well -one thing in a plastic bell full of oil and a radarsonics sensor so I'm spoilt with that!
 
armchairsailor said:
I think the plug is just for power - So I'd have to run wiring to the chartplotter/ fluxgate compass if I was to get a tillerpilot to do more than just hold the tiller, correct? Here's what's behind:
View attachment 68989

I've been in touch with Airmar, and have narrowed both transducer housings down to being B17s, so that's a good start. I'd like to avoid spending the cash and just plugging in to what's existing. There's actually 2 more (older) transducers still there as well -one thing in a plastic bell full of oil and a radarsonics sensor so I'm spoilt with that!
Click to expand...

The transducers may all be good - or not? You are unlikely to get any working unless you can make decent matched repairs to cables AND also match whatever frequency they operated at? A few Khz (<5Khz) difference you might get away with. More- probably not.
You can get Transducer drivers which output NMEA 0183 Depth (DBT) from Actisense - at a range of specific frequencies, if you want to feed a plotter rather than a stand alone depth meter.
 
JBJag27 said:
It's not the connector that comes with an ST2000 though it could easily have been changed.
Click to expand...

That’s kind of my point. It’s a completely generic socket (a Dri-Plug, not Bulgin as suggested) sold in most chandleries, so attempting to draw conclusions about precisely what was connected to it is silly. It’s like someone who once saw a lawnmower with an Australian plug on it, and now believes that any plug with angled flat pins is “a lawnmower plug”, unaware that there’s an entire continent using them for everything from hedge trimmers to hair straighteners.

Pete
 
Two transducers? If there's an Airmar log then you probably have a better chance that it will work with anything.

Still be cautious with the depth though - Airmar have produced 150, 200 and 235 kHz units in the same body. For a first test, I'd probably try with Raymarine ST40 or 60+ for the simple reason that you can use spade connectors into the back of the unit, rather than a proprietary plug. If you can borrow a tri-data you could try both with one unit. Any decent quality screened multicore data cable will do for a test. If there are 5 on the depth, you'll only need 3 as the other two will be temp. Wire colours may also vary depending on exact model and age.

Don't think I've read if the boat is in or out of water? Depth obviously won't work if latter although you could rig up something with a tube to see if you get anything at all.
 
MikeCC said:
Two transducers? If there's an Airmar log then you probably have a better chance that it will work with anything.

Still be cautious with the depth though - Airmar have produced 150, 200 and 235 kHz units in the same body. For a first test, I'd probably try with Raymarine ST40 or 60+ for the simple reason that you can use spade connectors into the back of the unit, rather than a proprietary plug. If you can borrow a tri-data you could try both with one unit. Any decent quality screened multicore data cable will do for a test. If there are 5 on the depth, you'll only need 3 as the other two will be temp. Wire colours may also vary depending on exact model and age.

Don't think I've read if the boat is in or out of water? Depth obviously won't work if latter although you could rig up something with a tube to see if you get anything at all.
Click to expand...

Is there any way to ascertain what the frequency of the transducer is by putting it on a multimeter or anything? The boat's in the water, so my options are limited.
 
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