Play in the helm..

[Matata]

Sigma 33. The stainless shaft comes up from the rudder and is held in place by a bronze block. Attached to this block is the tiller stock. The bronze block is attached to the stainless shaft by a parallel cotter pin (if thats the correct term). In other words the parallel pin goes through a circular hole in the bronze block then through a matching indent in the stainless shaft and out the other side of the bronze to a nut. There is a small amount of play in this pin/bronze block/stainless rudder shaft. Any suggestions how to get rid of it? By tightening up the pin since its parallel does not get rid of the play.It leads to about 1" of dead slop on the end of the tiller and very annoying! Ta Nik

 

[Tranona]

Just old age and wear. Might be the pin but more likely the slot in the stock. The bronze block may be worn as well does not take much wear to show up as big movement at the end of the tiller.

 

[Seajet]

Can you remove the bronze and stainless bits - probably tolerate it until end of season now - and get it to a workshop to have the pin sleeved, ie a bush fitted ?

Either that or a new lump of bronze or similar, I suspect a less expensive material could be used.

 

[Matata]

Yep , it will easily last till the end of the season. When the boat is coming out of the water on the crane we'll remove the rudder and shaft. Its all one and weights a ton! Our concern was that if we reamed a new hole slightly bigger diameter in the bronze block and a matching "curved recesses" in the shaft and a new bigger diameter pin that with the different toughness of the metals the bronze may oval and hence not have a nice snug matching fit. Veiws??

 

[davidej]

Yep , it will easily last till the end of the season. When the boat is coming out of the water on the crane we'll remove the rudder and shaft. Its all one and weights a ton! Our concern was that if we reamed a new hole slightly bigger diameter in the bronze block and a matching "curved recesses" in the shaft and a new bigger diameter pin that with the different toughness of the metals the bronze may oval and hence not have a nice snug matching fit. Veiws??

Could you ream it with the bronze block in position on the stock (either in situ or in the workshop) so that the hole on each part line-up perfectly?

 

[prv]

Sounds similar to my rudder head. However, mine also has a grub screw in it to take out the last bit of movement. The pin/bolt goes from port to starboard, and the grub screw comes in from astern. A hole is drilled in the block from the outside into the central hole, and then tapped; nothing on the stock although there is some visible wear where the end of the screw lands.

It needs tightening every now and then (I suppose I could add some loktite) and when it's loose the symptoms are exactly as you describe. When tight, the whole thing is immovable.

Pete

 

[alahol2]

Would it not be feasible to machine a flat on the rudder shaft and use a 'wedge' type cotterpin which can be tightened (and re-tightened) until there is no movement. In other words exactly the same as an old fashioned cotterpin on a cycle bottom bracket?

 

[ianat182]

Possibly not the same configuration, but when I removed my tiller and rudder from my Westerly Tiger there were two small bronze bushes that the pivot bolt tightened onto that both clamped the bronze block and provided a bushing for the tiller fitting to pivot; this tightening could stiffen the up and down movement of the tiller whilst retaining the tension on the pivot bolt (cotter)with a Nyloc nut and 2 washers.
The bronze block was recessed like a countersink to suit the bronze bushes each shaped rather like half ball bearing, and female cavity to match in the block,both sides.


ianat182

 

[Matata]

I think my vote goes to PRV for simplicity. Its easy to drill and tap the bronze and I'd be tempted to put a wee indent in the stainless shaft to help locate it.Any suggestions for grub screw size? Ta Nik