Plastimo Roller Reefing

R

rajjes

Well-Known Member
Joined
21 Nov 2002
Messages
142
Visit site
Hi, I’m looking to change my 26’ GRP Folkboat to roller reefing and am looking at the Plastimo 608 S which is described as suitable for boats 6-8 m (20-26 ft) Max. headsail size: 25m².

Does anyone has practical experience of this product?

As 26’ is the max recommended size of the 608S is it wise to fork out almost 100 quid extra for a supposedly more robust model 810 S “For boats 8-10 m (26-33 ft) Max. headsail size: 35 m²”

Any info is appreciated!
 
Hi, I have the 608 as recomended at the time by Seateach who said the next model up would have being a unneccasary expense fitted on my Sabre 27.

Its being on there seven yrs now with no problems at all, but if you do decide to fit it I would recomend fitting a diverter wheel at the mast top.

Hope this helps

Mike
 
I have the Plastimo 810 fitted on my Jaguar 27, and I've been very pleased with it. One small thing to bear in mind is that the 608 has a smaller drum, so a slightly smaller rope is needed, which can be a bit hard on the hands. The for'd lead onto the drum has to be precisely fitted, or the rope can get jammed...otherwise, I think they are good value for money.
 
I agree with mike27 - the wheel at the top is essential to prevent jamming, halyard wrap, and damaged forestay wires. Make sure the top bearing is not tight on the wire as they can bind, which unravels the wire into a pretty but seriously weakened 'parrot cage' - which has been the downfall of several masts.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I would recomend fitting a diverter wheel at the mast top.


[/ QUOTE ]

I had the diverter wheel removed when I had new rigging and a halyard diverter fitted to the mast. Which is one of the methods in the current Plastimo instructions.
 
Fitted a 608 to my Westerly 25 years ago. Very happy with it - to the point that I got the larger system to upgrade my new boat when I moved up.

read the instructions carefully, you will not get halyard wrap if the halyard lead is correct. I used a tack strop to raise the head of the sail on my first boat - it improved visibility (I could see under the sail) and the sail set better as well as preventing halyard wrap.

Another potential problem is a tight luffwire jamming in the plastic inner guides where the sections join. If this is likely to be a problem, carefully fair the inner edges of the plastic guides where the sections join.

As already said - make sure the reefing line feeds to the centre of the drum to stop it riding over or under under pressure. One of these will help.
 
Considered it for Amulet (bit like a folkboat). Bet your choice works fine. I chose Sailspar's continuous loop system instead because it gave me a much smaller drum at deck level. It works fine in my hands, looks better, an gives less clobber to get in the way mooring/anchoring. Each to his taste. I'm willing to bet someone will now post a flame about how hopeless the Sailspar system is!

Graham.
 
Don't forget to consider that the tack of the jib will probably be higher than currently so you'll need to ensure the jib tracks allow you to pull the fairleads aft to compensate.

I've had a 608 on a 25 footer and it was fine. Even comes with sliders so you don't have to have the jib fitted with a luff rope. Unless you have an IOR style rig with huge genoa the 608 will be well up to the task

All the best
 
[ QUOTE ]
supposedly more robust model 810 S “For boats 8-10 m (26-33 ft) Max. headsail size: 35 m²”

[/ QUOTE ]

If you haven't seen it already, you can download the installation manual from the Plastimo site here (scroll down to Reefing & Rigging & select your favourite language - I'm not clever enough to do a direct link to the manual).

If you look at the parts list in the back of the manual, the majority of the components (foils, liners, bearings, halyard swivel, etc.) appear to be common to the 406-S, 609-S and 810-S (they have the same part number). The diameter and capacity of the reefing line drum changes, though (as does the number of lengths of foil, etc. that you get as standard).

Based on that, I don't think there's much point going 'for the next one up', as you're not getting anything of higher quality, just something geared to the size of sail you'll be using.

0.02p

Andy

(Our plastimo system works OK, btw. There's a lot of them about.)

edit: Direct link to manual here (pdf) it wasn't hard!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Well worth reading this thread from a little over a month ago. http://www.ybw.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=pbo&Number=1613557

Note the importance of the special shackle that is supplied and don't do as sbc had done and dispense with the halyard diverter.

IMHO if you have the mast down it would be far better to fit the alternative type of halyard diverter on the front face of the mast.

[/ QUOTE ]

Vics, having taken great interest in what SBC had said about the halyard swivel on his boat. I think you may have it a bit skewy there. I recall that he had a second line rigged to the mast to prevent the halyard from wrapping. The ring diverter in fact was doing nothing. I was surprised that his shackle was not the correct one, but HWMBO had contact with him over it, I know that he has secured a new shackle and it is fitted. The shackle as fitted by another had caused his swivel to unscrew. The new shackle has cured that. He also confirmed that with the second line rigged as he has, that the diverter was completely useless and redundant.
 
FWIW SBC's problem turned out to be that the long "bent" shackle designed to keep the halyard off the swivel had been removed by Prev owner. Consequently the halyard dragging on the swivel as the stay rotated caused the top of the swivel to unscrew. He bought a replacement shackle for about £10 and the problem was sorted.
 
[ QUOTE ]
FWIW SBC's problem turned out to be that the long "bent" shackle designed to keep the halyard off the swivel had been removed by Prev owner.

[/ QUOTE ] That was really only part of the problem. The previous owner had also "bored out" the halyard diverter wheel so that it no longer fitted as it should so sbc in his wisdom took it off and used a second line to prevent the halyard wrapping around the forestay. Unfortunately it did not hold the shackle away from the swivel. If the diverter had not been modified and then removed he may not have had the trouble he did. Likewise if having discarded the diverter he may not have had the problems if he had fitted the alternative. I do agree though that the special bent shackle is important.

Cost him more than tenner I think with shipping to Latvia!
 
I think the price of the plastimo being a few hundred quid less than the nearest rival puts people off, but its a good system and for most small cruising boats is fine. I have one fitted and have made a small mod to the drum , I think i saw it in PBO mag. A twisted shackle is fitted through a hole drilled in the end of plastic drum cover and the reefing line is fed through it. This stops the line getting jammed between the drum sides and the outer cover but allow the rope to move up and down when its rolling up. If you like I will take a photo of it next time Im on the boat. Dont use too thick rope for the control line or it jams up the drum. Pay particular attention to the positioning of the cover on the drum and the angle of the lead in to the drum for the control line , it will effect the efficiency of the control line.There is a additional plastimo kit for the rope and stanction guides but its cheaper to buy barton bits off the shelf. Go for the stainless steel mast fitting for the halyard diverter not the wheel attachment its not as efficient. Good luck. Take your time.... measure twice cut once etc.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top