Plastimo 608S

S

shaunb

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I am considering buying a Plastimo 608S roller furling system to install on my Ecume de Mer. Plastimo offer an option of either "Chainplate or turnbuckle", I have no idea what the difference between these 2 is, even after reading the explanation on plastimo's website:

"All our headsail reefing gears come with a set of chainplates.

On the "chainplates mounting" version, the chainplates are fastened to the forestay U-bolt and the forestay itself is secured to the chainplates.


On the "turnbuckle mounting" version, the chainplates are pulled apart and a funnel is engineered inside the spar, to run the turnbuckle through.

This version allows the adjustement of the forestay tension even when the headsail reefing is set up, which is not possible with the chainplates-only mounting version."

As I wish to fit myself, and don't want to shorten the forestay, would I be better off with the turnbuckle version?
 
Hi

The "turnbuckle" option is for forestays that have a bottle screw fastening the forestay to the deck, the chainplates on this one are longer to accomodate the bottle screw. The "chainplate" option has shorter plates, which will keep the drum closer to the deck.

Hope that helps

Dave
 
I had a 608S installed by yard last Summer. Some riggers look down their noses at Plastimo but I think its vital to have the 608S properly installed and it should then work trouble free for years. Unfortunately some DIY folk make a bit of a bosh of this operation and then wonder why the gear is not reliable. The foil should reach close to the top of the stay to prevent snagging. Do you homework and you should be ok...good luck
 
Im buying Plastimo becouse all the plastimo users ive met have been pleased with them.They look well made and are strong?.

And i can just about aford to buy it!!Otherwise id go for profurl! Plastimo dose seem to be a good system.

I intended to "DIY" fitting it!!!!! What do i have to be aware of???Ill only use mine as a "furler" or perhaps for manovering.

I will read your post but i have to bike ride 17kms to find a wi-fi connection since French internet connections are all becomeing secure!My replys may be slow!!!But im an VERY interested indeed!!
 
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(cut) Ill only use mine as a "furler" or perhaps for manovering. (cut)

[/ QUOTE ]

Ohh No you won't (panto season is here!) They are so convenient, you will use it for reefing - as it was designed to be. Plastimo roller reefers (and most other makes) really are good, only racing nuts /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif would ever consider changing sails every time the wind changes.
 
From my experience of Plastimo roller reefing I would make two suggestions.

1. The kit will probably come with ss rivets. IMHO it would be a very good idea to buy monel ones of the same size and use them instead. No difference in function, but you'll save a lot of time, drill bits and bad language if and when you later have to drill them out to dismantle it, e.g. to replace the forestay. (I went a stage further and used aluminium rivets since (a) they're mostly not load bearing and (b) no dissimilar metals are involved, and I have had no problems to date, but would hesitate to recommend this to others "just in case".)

2. If you raise your own mast think of a system (e.g. "employ an assistant" a la Haynes) for keeping some tension on the foil to hold it reasonably straight and pull it forward while the mast goes up. It's remarkably easy otherwise to get it buckled, with the bottom end jammed on the foredeck.
 
Hi again

I installed a 608 on a boat a few years ago, it worked well, but there was a tendancy for the furling line to jump of the drum and cause a birds nest, which took some time to sort out. There was a "reader tip" in PBO to prevent this. If I remember correctly the writer had used a couple of large shackles to form an entry slot to prevent the furling line from squeezing into the gap, between the drum and the cheeks of the static part of the drum. Sounds complicated! but you will see what I mean when you see the drum.

The lead angle of the line on to the drum is also quite important, from memory it has to be 90 degres to the drum for the last 100cm.

If you are not replacing the forestay, it is possible to fit the furler without removing the existing stay.
Also quite important to prevent "halyard wrap" ifyour halyard is close to the rotating foil section there is a risk of the halyard wrapping itself around the foil/forestay.

There are a couple of options to prevent this.
1) fasten a dead fairlead to the mast to hold the halyard away.
2) buy a halyard diverter ref 25720 this is like a wheel that sits above the last section of foil and prevents the halyard fouling the foil.

You can get some instructions here plastimo

Have a go, it's not too difficult, plenty help on here if you get stuck.
 
[ QUOTE ]
....The lead angle of the line on to the drum is also quite important, from memory it has to be 90 degres to the drum for the last 100cm....

[/ QUOTE ]
This angle is crucial. Mine started to come off the drum in the last season or two and I was considering a similar modification to the one described in PBO. But after altering the angle slightly, the situation improved. I think that as the drum ages the gap between the edge of the drum and the wrap around guard expands which also increases the chance of the furling line coming off the drum.
 
This is the turnbuckle option which I have. I think they are often used with bridles as the aft stay tension is not always enough to get the bridle good and tight.

01_Pwllheli_lrg.jpg


It has two forks dropping down below the spool, which have holes running parallel to allow course adjust, then you tighten down with the turnbuckle.
 
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